632 Ignition issue

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Bobcat632

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Joined
Sep 4, 2024
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15
I have a strange issue happening with my ignition.

If I remove the spark plugs and ground the plug on the block I get Spark for all "cylinders". But if I install all of the plugs and use a timing light I am only getting it to light up on cylinders 3 and 4. I get nothing on 1 and 2.

I installed a Pertronix 1241LS Ignitor conversion kit in it earlier this year to replace the points and condenser. And it had been running ok.

Any ideas what might be going on here?

I have been working thru a ton of issues with this lately and I think this might be the last link that gets it back running.

***WARNING - really long read***
Here is my saga with this the last month. If you want to read.

Over the last year it has been getting harder and harder to start. Turn the key and the solenoid wouldn't always kick the gear in. It was also very slow spinning the motor over. Just thought it was a dieing battery. It got to the point where I was having to jump start it with a jump box or my car to get it going. Took the battery back to Walmart, still under warranty, but they tested it as good.

About a month ago we got a bunch of dirt delivered and a guy got a dump trailer stuck while I was at work. They asked to use the skid steer, I said sure but it is a pain to start. They got it started, used it and parked it. I went to use it a day later to move the dirt and couldn't get it to start.

After trying and trying it wouldn't start. I figured I flooded it, so took off the intake tube. And a ton of gas poured out. I left it that night to evaporate. The next day I tried again. It wouldn't start and gas was pouring out of the carb again.

I guessed it was just something in the needle and seat. Took the carb off and just tried disassembling and cleaning it. The previous owner had replaced it in 2023 so it shouldn't need any replacement parts. It is a Zenith 13805A carb, not some knock off Chinese one. Put it back on and same thing, pouring gas while starting. I did it again, a 3rd time and same thing. It does not pour gas when off or sitting, it also does not have the shutoff solenoid and this has never been a problem.

I ordered a float rebuild kit from Amazon. Got the parts in and and seat does not thread into the carb, wrong threads. Put the carb back in. Sigh, leaking gas again. One more time ordered another float kit, a more expensive one. Again wrong size seat. Re-assemble, put it back in. Yay, still leaking.... During all of this disassemble/reassemble I found something on the net saying a float height.

So what do I have to lose, change the float height. Didn't start, but also didn't leak! Thought maybe it was to high. Changed it a total of 4 times, each time reinstalling and trying, until it was back to the original height. Though all of that what it looks like is that it only pours gas if I use the choke too much. I can now remove, disassemble and reinstall the carb with my eyes closed.

But it doesn't still doesn't start.. doesn't even try. Even with starter fluid. So I just checked Cylinder 1 for spark and there was. Next, I checked for compression. It was abysmal, but it was there.

Next I go to replace the starter. Drove 40 min away to look at one at an autozone but wasn't even close to right. Since this motor is basically a 72 Pinto motor n thought the starter would be the same. NOPE. Driving back home i stopped at another autozone. IDK what the guy typed in from my original 45yr old starter, but after research it is exactly the one I need.

If you need a starter for a Ford 1.6L. Look for a Wilson 91-15-6836 at autozone.

I got the starter in. It turns over i would say close to 4 times faster. Still doesn't start but there were faint hints. With a little bit of starter fluid it sounded like one would try to go and another was backfiring thru the carb, had a little fire for a sec.

Thru all of this on-off, on-off, on-off. I remember searching the web for a quick answer of the firing order and found it as 1-2-4-3. But the service manual i have has it listed as 1-2-3-4, on page 7C-xx. But i ended up finding in 3 more places in the manual an order of 1-2-4-3. Switching to that it sounds like two cylinders want to go and no backfire.

Now you are caught up. I am sure i probably missed taking off that damn carb off and disassembling a time or two. I just can't wrap my head around 1 and 2 showing Spark or off the engine but they don't light the timing light.
 
Here's an update. ANY SUGGESTIONS GREATLY APPRECIATED!

I swapped out the plugs. I replaced the wires. I replaced the Coil. And I replaced the cap. I would have to order the rotor as no one carries it locally. I still have the same issue.

Pertronix sent me some test procedures to test the Igniter conversion kit. Everything tests good..... I took the distributor out to do the bench test on the Igniter. I was only able to get the distributor back in last night but not back together.

Any ideas????

Thanks
 
Here's an update. ANY SUGGESTIONS GREATLY APPRECIATED!

I swapped out the plugs. I replaced the wires. I replaced the Coil. And I replaced the cap. I would have to order the rotor as no one carries it locally. I still have the same issue.

Pertronix sent me some test procedures to test the Igniter conversion kit. Everything tests good..... I took the distributor out to do the bench test on the Igniter. I was only able to get the distributor back in last night but not back together.

Any ideas????

Thanks
I have attached a photo of the Bobcat 632 Loader Specifications. Yes the firing order is 1-2-4-3. Also make sure your timing is correct.
Sorry I can’t help more than this.

Also, here is a link to the parts catalog. The schematics and part numbers come in handy:
https://partscatalog.bobcat.com/
 

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Thank you for your suggestion. After replacing the starter and it not starting. That's when I went to check the timing and discovered that the timing light wouldn't go off on cylinder 1 and led me down the rabbit hole of just staring to throw ignition parts at it.

Thank you for the info
 
You mentioned abysmal compression. How bad is it? When I bought my second machine it did pretty much exactly as you're describing. That engine was very tired and ultimately I ended up installing a spare engine I had that I rebuilt...
I was able to coax mine into running on warm days or on cooler days by heating the engine compartment with one of those ready heaters... if you have one it would be easy to try if that helps... on mine, if the temperature was below freezing there was no hope without lots of preheat. One thing you can check is your valve clearance, make sure it's correct, they are in the specs that brdgbldr posted above.
 
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Here's an update. Finally got back to it, had to replace the fuel injectors in the wife's car.

I replaced one of the fork spade connectors because it looked pretty old and kept spreading out. Put the cap and wires back on.

It started right up.... I don't know if it was taking out the distributor and the pertronix unit and reinstalling it, or the connector. But it started back up no problem. Just like it was running before.

Until an hour and a half later.............
Out of no where and all of the sudden it started running very rough and started backfiring on one cylinder. Pinching the vacuum line to the distributor would get it to stop backfiring, but still ran very rough. Tried adjusting the timing, manually, as it was running but couldn't get it running good. When I pulled out the timing light I couldn't get it to start again. I ran out of daylight and time to mess with it on Saturday. Sunday it wouldn't try to fire on a cylinder. I had a prior engagement so I didn't have any time to mess with it.

I am going to try to remove the distributor and re-install the points and condenser to see if it runs with that.


Spitzair, the compression with the old starter was 20/60/30/30. So horrible.. With the new starter it went up to better numbers. 65/83/70/70. I did try a wet test on #1 and it went up to 70. I did not check the compression again after I got it running. As it was running like it was before (not great, but running) and I have a lot of work for it to do right now.
 
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Yeah that compression is definitely not great, should be between 105 and 140 psi as per the specs brdgbldr posted, but obviously it runs with those numbers… we should be able to figure this out between all of us here… did you ever replace the entire distributor? It could be that something is worn out in your distributor causing an intermittent no contact with the number 1 post on the distributor. A new rotor might fix this. I recall you saying you didn’t replace the rotor, that would be the next thing I would go after. You can buy an entire distributor from pertronix but I’m willing to bet you’re getting real close to having it solved, my money is on the rotor being the problem at the moment…
 
Oh yeah I know that compression isn't great, but it's was also with a cold motor that didn't run for maybe two months. Might be a little better when warm, but it definitely needs a good overhaul.

I had a chance to put the points and condenser back in this weekend. And it started running again. No backfires. There is something definitely wrong with my pertronix. The motor doesn't seem as strong with the points back in there, but at least now it is running. I need to double check the points and timing again.

I set the timing per the manual but the motor was very sluggish at full throttle. I adjusted the timing kinda in the "middle" rotating the distributor back and forth. I did find that the vacuum advance had a leak. I need to get a new one.

I am going to double check the points and timing again when I get a chance, but probably not for two weeks. Forecast calls for rain, snow and 20's for this weekend coming up.
 
Oh yeah I know that compression isn't great, but it's was also with a cold motor that didn't run for maybe two months. Might be a little better when warm, but it definitely needs a good overhaul.

I had a chance to put the points and condenser back in this weekend. And it started running again. No backfires. There is something definitely wrong with my pertronix. The motor doesn't seem as strong with the points back in there, but at least now it is running. I need to double check the points and timing again.

I set the timing per the manual but the motor was very sluggish at full throttle. I adjusted the timing kinda in the "middle" rotating the distributor back and forth. I did find that the vacuum advance had a leak. I need to get a new one.

I am going to double check the points and timing again when I get a chance, but probably not for two weeks. Forecast calls for rain, snow and 20's for this weekend coming up.
It sounds like the exact problem that I am going through with my 742. The Pertonix was good in the summer, but when I last tried to start it (it’s at my deer camp in northern Wisconsin) it would not start in early December and has been sitting ever since. I bought a whole new distributor with wires and everything from Power Spark in the UK for a fraction of the price even after tariffs and shipping compared to Pertronix. It is UK made and very good quality. I am headed up there on Thursday to install it and see if it even will start. Hopefully it warms up a bit because currently it was -14 up there this morning!
 

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