I have a TL230 with a V3307-DI-T-E3B-TLTUI, Serial #223100002-OE-TL230-A. Water is mixing with Oil causing the engine oil to give the appearance of chocolate milk. Besides head gasket what could cause this problem in this machine. What is to be looked for? All help appreciated in advance?
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water mixing with OIL
- Thread starter Remote95
- Start date
foton
Well-known member
does it have a engine oil cooler where it could mix with the engine coolant in a heat exchanger???
water can get in many ways, NOT specific to your machine,
but it can get in from /at at fill port/;s, dip stick and tube, if loose or broken, or cracks in things or seals on them, vent lines, air filter,. exhaust(if started with them under water it can suck it in, or if just gravity allows things to let it in, or puddle around them, ) condensation can also cause water build up in cases including motor oil, temp swings tend to cause a lot of that pending where being parked and weather in your area!
those are the one that come off the top of my head!
How often is your oil being changed, and checked? to see when it goes from good to contaminated, maybe, you can try checking more often to try and monitor when it starts to get diluted with water and back track, on weather and when and where and how its used , like used while its when raining, or on muddy sites with water, or being parked!
but it can get in from /at at fill port/;s, dip stick and tube, if loose or broken, or cracks in things or seals on them, vent lines, air filter,. exhaust(if started with them under water it can suck it in, or if just gravity allows things to let it in, or puddle around them, ) condensation can also cause water build up in cases including motor oil, temp swings tend to cause a lot of that pending where being parked and weather in your area!
those are the one that come off the top of my head!
How often is your oil being changed, and checked? to see when it goes from good to contaminated, maybe, you can try checking more often to try and monitor when it starts to get diluted with water and back track, on weather and when and where and how its used , like used while its when raining, or on muddy sites with water, or being parked!
That I am thinking too. New to kubota Auction machine. Oil like chocolate milk when purchased. The macine is TL230 series 2. Serial 223100002-OE-TL230-A. Put 15 lbs presuure on Radiator yesterday and it held that pressure for and a half hours. No change in pressure. Kinda eliminates the head gasket doesnt it? Are you referring to an EGR valve or Heat excanger? Please clue me in on the difference if there is one on this machine?does it have a engine oil cooler where it could mix with the engine coolant in a heat exchanger???
Is the coolant level going down? Let it set for a few days crack the oil drain plug and note the color of what comes out does it match the coolant color? Could be condensation depending on the weather where you are. Drain oil get a rad test setup and see if coolant is getting in the oil pan. besides head gaskets depending on the eng it maybe a timing cover intake manifold, water pump gasket some eng have gear driven water pumps that will let coolant it the oil if the weep hole is plugged up. Could be a cracked head or block or liner. Good luck finding the issue. Please let us know what you find.
You guys are awesome in trying to help!
Let me list the situation to help?
1. Machine was bought at auction with knowledge it had chocolate milk for oil.
2. Machine was not driven so to speak just cranked and run for a few seconds in which I tested for forward,reverse, motion. then shut off.
3. After purchasing machine removed key and had local guy drop the motor oil and replace with New.
4.After bringing home by driving on trailer and off where it sat for long period.
5. Oil still clear but remember not Run but minite or two or less each time.
6. Started researching possible causes including the usual?
7. Was told may be exchanger corrupted by 2 different people and now 3
including Fotons post of Question?
8. Cranked machne and drove it maybe 100 yards. Oil went to chocolate.
9. Machine sat again for long time (months)
10. Backed trailer up to machine and Tried to crank machine? machine would not turn over smoothly although I had hooked up battery charger prior and brought to full charge. It acted as if cavitation was present? (acted) After 6 or 7 key turns it fired up
was running smoothly and driven 20 feet up on trailer. (Shut it off)
11. Took it to my shop and was going to unload it. Machine again would not turn over smoothly. After several bump to the starter all electrical went dead. Am now going to clean Terminals on battery but fear fuse has blown somewhere (any thought on that appreciated?
12 Had guy drain OIL aand was going to replace with clean again? He noted that when he opened the motor oil drain plug he said clear water came out then oil then some more clear water. (Very Mistafying) Called him just prior to this post and he again said was not color of coolant?( very mistyfying) Not sure of his assesment?
13. (PRIOR NOTE) before electrical went dead hooked up presure tester to radiater and was going to turn engine over just to see if would turn over ( not crank) Guy in back noted at turnover spike in pressure on guage. (sketchy because I didnt see)
14. Machine has sat for couple weeks with oil drained. Snap ON pressure tester put on radiater yesterday and held 15 pounds pressure for 5 and a half hours ( No drop in pressure noticeable). However did notice coolant has recessed below sight line?
15. (TO ALL) have tried to give sequence of events and conditions. Untill couple weeks ago machine has sat in my yard for several months. Am now trying to figure out problem. (Note) Each time I have ever cranked and run the machine it sounds good, although very briefly? I am new to Kubota V3307 but have had much experience running Diesel Equipment.
16. Plan to get under machine myself and drop motor oil drain plug to see for myself and determine if coolant comes out or what?
Let me list the situation to help?
1. Machine was bought at auction with knowledge it had chocolate milk for oil.
2. Machine was not driven so to speak just cranked and run for a few seconds in which I tested for forward,reverse, motion. then shut off.
3. After purchasing machine removed key and had local guy drop the motor oil and replace with New.
4.After bringing home by driving on trailer and off where it sat for long period.
5. Oil still clear but remember not Run but minite or two or less each time.
6. Started researching possible causes including the usual?
7. Was told may be exchanger corrupted by 2 different people and now 3
including Fotons post of Question?
8. Cranked machne and drove it maybe 100 yards. Oil went to chocolate.
9. Machine sat again for long time (months)
10. Backed trailer up to machine and Tried to crank machine? machine would not turn over smoothly although I had hooked up battery charger prior and brought to full charge. It acted as if cavitation was present? (acted) After 6 or 7 key turns it fired up
was running smoothly and driven 20 feet up on trailer. (Shut it off)
11. Took it to my shop and was going to unload it. Machine again would not turn over smoothly. After several bump to the starter all electrical went dead. Am now going to clean Terminals on battery but fear fuse has blown somewhere (any thought on that appreciated?
12 Had guy drain OIL aand was going to replace with clean again? He noted that when he opened the motor oil drain plug he said clear water came out then oil then some more clear water. (Very Mistafying) Called him just prior to this post and he again said was not color of coolant?( very mistyfying) Not sure of his assesment?
13. (PRIOR NOTE) before electrical went dead hooked up presure tester to radiater and was going to turn engine over just to see if would turn over ( not crank) Guy in back noted at turnover spike in pressure on guage. (sketchy because I didnt see)
14. Machine has sat for couple weeks with oil drained. Snap ON pressure tester put on radiater yesterday and held 15 pounds pressure for 5 and a half hours ( No drop in pressure noticeable). However did notice coolant has recessed below sight line?
15. (TO ALL) have tried to give sequence of events and conditions. Untill couple weeks ago machine has sat in my yard for several months. Am now trying to figure out problem. (Note) Each time I have ever cranked and run the machine it sounds good, although very briefly? I am new to Kubota V3307 but have had much experience running Diesel Equipment.
16. Plan to get under machine myself and drop motor oil drain plug to see for myself and determine if coolant comes out or what?
Last edited:
Machine has never been worked by me?water can get in many ways, NOT specific to your machine,
but it can get in from /at at fill port/;s, dip stick and tube, if loose or broken, or cracks in things or seals on them, vent lines, air filter,. exhaust(if started with them under water it can suck it in, or if just gravity allows things to let it in, or puddle around them, ) condensation can also cause water build up in cases including motor oil, temp swings tend to cause a lot of that pending where being parked and weather in your area!
those are the one that come off the top of my head!
How often is your oil being changed, and checked? to see when it goes from good to contaminated, maybe, you can try checking more often to try and monitor when it starts to get diluted with water and back track, on weather and when and where and how its used , like used while its when raining, or on muddy sites with water, or being parked!
OK I have a few questions
, first the simple things, the NOW start hard start , could very simply be from a BAD battery just cause it was charged and showing fully charged, doesn't mean the battery is good, it needs to be load tested to rule that out
as a battery with poor cells can show 12+ volts, yet be too weak to start machine properly
and as you said, check fuses as well and clean terminals and check all wire connections and wires themself!
NEXT as for water in oil, since you stated you had oil changed, then parked machine for expended periods of time not really using it
you really don't know much about it running wise or not
SO< some thoughts that come to me
any chance this machine was in a flood?
and was at some point flooded under water
I know of MANY places that had major floods the past decade, and know of many folks that got burned buying things that were under water at auctions and never declared
folks clean them up and sell them FAR away or likes to unsuspecting buyers!
and when folks DRAIN oil,. after a motor was filled, , you seldom get it ALL out, same with dirt and other crap washed in with any water!
talk to folks that play in the deep water and mud with atv's UTV, they sink things often ) I have many friends that play this game,
enough to know how water can sit in spots and takes a few changes to clear 100 % of water, it some times hides in low spots to just clings to oil on sides of things(typically it burns off when tun a while too, like condensation in oil tends too SOME TIMES, pending how much that is)
and you *(never get 100 % of other stuff though with a full tear down , and thats a FACT too)
but again, you stated you never rally RAN motor up to temp much or long enough to remove MINOR amounts!
and since you stated, you did a second oil change and LOTS of clear water came out
this again leads me to believe that water is getting in thru fill cap, or dip stick, or thru air box, as thats about the ONLY way your going to get LOTS of water in a motor without actually driving the machine in water to suck it in thru a vent or getting in thru fill points , when they went under water
I knew of some older machines that were known to have gaskets go dry at fill points and allow water to fill systems, be it motor or hydraulics
SO< that is for sure where I'd be looking hard
and from there oil lines
by chance is there standing ponding water in the machine any where, on top of floor, skid plates??
as again, some vent lines can suck water in thru them that way, or a line with a hole in it laying in water??
skid steer are famous(as most HD equipment) for belly pans to fill with debris and block drain holes!
which can lead to ponding water in them!
ANy how
, first the simple things, the NOW start hard start , could very simply be from a BAD battery just cause it was charged and showing fully charged, doesn't mean the battery is good, it needs to be load tested to rule that out
as a battery with poor cells can show 12+ volts, yet be too weak to start machine properly
and as you said, check fuses as well and clean terminals and check all wire connections and wires themself!
NEXT as for water in oil, since you stated you had oil changed, then parked machine for expended periods of time not really using it
you really don't know much about it running wise or not
SO< some thoughts that come to me
any chance this machine was in a flood?
and was at some point flooded under water
I know of MANY places that had major floods the past decade, and know of many folks that got burned buying things that were under water at auctions and never declared
folks clean them up and sell them FAR away or likes to unsuspecting buyers!
and when folks DRAIN oil,. after a motor was filled, , you seldom get it ALL out, same with dirt and other crap washed in with any water!
talk to folks that play in the deep water and mud with atv's UTV, they sink things often ) I have many friends that play this game,
enough to know how water can sit in spots and takes a few changes to clear 100 % of water, it some times hides in low spots to just clings to oil on sides of things(typically it burns off when tun a while too, like condensation in oil tends too SOME TIMES, pending how much that is)
and you *(never get 100 % of other stuff though with a full tear down , and thats a FACT too)
but again, you stated you never rally RAN motor up to temp much or long enough to remove MINOR amounts!
and since you stated, you did a second oil change and LOTS of clear water came out
this again leads me to believe that water is getting in thru fill cap, or dip stick, or thru air box, as thats about the ONLY way your going to get LOTS of water in a motor without actually driving the machine in water to suck it in thru a vent or getting in thru fill points , when they went under water
I knew of some older machines that were known to have gaskets go dry at fill points and allow water to fill systems, be it motor or hydraulics
SO< that is for sure where I'd be looking hard
and from there oil lines
by chance is there standing ponding water in the machine any where, on top of floor, skid plates??
as again, some vent lines can suck water in thru them that way, or a line with a hole in it laying in water??
skid steer are famous(as most HD equipment) for belly pans to fill with debris and block drain holes!
which can lead to ponding water in them!
ANy how
UPDATE:
Just remember all insight helpful and thank you.
Line 12, and 16 above.
1. Guy dropped oil from machine but we did not replace it. I was waiting to try to figure out a few things.
2. Line 16: Although we had Not filled the machine up with motor oil, I crawled under this afternoon and unscrewed the oil pan plug. A small amount of water which upon inspection I believe to be coolant. ??? made the mistake of using a HF drain pan that was green. went home got a cleaar jar and poured water/coolant into it. I see a green tint so belive it is coolant.
3. After pulling drain plug I pressured the radiater again at 15 lbs. but this time the guage lost half of the pressure in about 20-30 minites.
Just remember all insight helpful and thank you.
Line 12, and 16 above.
1. Guy dropped oil from machine but we did not replace it. I was waiting to try to figure out a few things.
2. Line 16: Although we had Not filled the machine up with motor oil, I crawled under this afternoon and unscrewed the oil pan plug. A small amount of water which upon inspection I believe to be coolant. ??? made the mistake of using a HF drain pan that was green. went home got a cleaar jar and poured water/coolant into it. I see a green tint so belive it is coolant.
3. After pulling drain plug I pressured the radiater again at 15 lbs. but this time the guage lost half of the pressure in about 20-30 minites.
OK more questions or ??
after changing oil that first time, and then, USING machine the little you did, did you check oil level on dip stick, to see if it was different than after refilling with new oil?
as the level should have changed a bunch of you had a LOT of clear water in it?
and the little you ran it, what color was the exhaust , white, blue, or????
if it was me, I think I would be changing oil, filling to correct level, (also make sure coolant is filled to correct level in both radiator and overfill)
and then RUN it a while, till good and hot, monitor exhaust smoke, for color, and or smell
burning coolant tends to make white smoke, or what color
and then let it cool down and recheck level of oil and coolant levels to see if any change!
after changing oil that first time, and then, USING machine the little you did, did you check oil level on dip stick, to see if it was different than after refilling with new oil?
as the level should have changed a bunch of you had a LOT of clear water in it?
and the little you ran it, what color was the exhaust , white, blue, or????
if it was me, I think I would be changing oil, filling to correct level, (also make sure coolant is filled to correct level in both radiator and overfill)
and then RUN it a while, till good and hot, monitor exhaust smoke, for color, and or smell
burning coolant tends to make white smoke, or what color
and then let it cool down and recheck level of oil and coolant levels to see if any change!
Is there oil in the coolant? Paper towel at the filler neck should showI have a TL230 with a V3307-DI-T-E3B-TLTUI, Serial #223100002-OE-TL230-A. Water is mixing with Oil causing the engine oil to give the appearance of chocolate milk. Besides head gasket what could cause this problem in this machine. What is to be looked for? All help appreciated in advance?
UPDATE # 2, Today solved I think the electrical issue. mrbb was insightful, While trying to clean battery Terminals I moved the Negative ground wire and it came apart at the terminal. It looked good from where I was looking but was not giving a good ground
because of corrosion internally. After discovering this I hooked jumper cables to the positive and negative terminals and the electric came back alive when I turned the key.
Thanks to all on this issue. Tomorrow I go to the welding place to buy cable and will get ends that you can fill with solder. That should take care of the Terminals.
because of corrosion internally. After discovering this I hooked jumper cables to the positive and negative terminals and the electric came back alive when I turned the key.
Thanks to all on this issue. Tomorrow I go to the welding place to buy cable and will get ends that you can fill with solder. That should take care of the Terminals.
Another Question, I was told today that I could take the two hoses that go into the heat exchanger/Egr and splice them together thus bypassing the heat exchanger/egr. Can anyone verify this. My thinking is that if this works at least for temporarily I could then refill the motor with oil and if It still mixes Oil and coolant then I probably have other issues such s head gasket.
As long as you are only running and not working the machine the oil should not need the external cooling so bypass for testing should be OKAnother Question, I was told today that I could take the two hoses that go into the heat exchanger/Egr and splice them together thus bypassing the heat exchanger/egr. Can anyone verify this. My thinking is that if this works at least for temporarily I could then refill the motor with oil and if It still mixes Oil and coolant then I probably have other issues such s head gasket.
foton
Well-known member
yes you can bypass the cooler just watch your engine oil and hydro oil temps. and as long as you go somewhat bigger not smaller on the battery cables you will be ok .
Much thanks for the advice. Today I took a better look at the EGR Cooler and noticed in stead of two there are actually 3 hoses maybe 3/4 in diameter, In addition there is a smaller hose maybe 1/4 inch running over to the upper radiater hose. I did not see any electrical hookups. Does anyone know how to bypass this egr cooler ? Is it complicated to do?
Can you use a tee? Connect the large ones end to end with the 1/4 out the middle? The 1/4 is probably an air bleed?Much thanks for the advice. Today I took a better look at the EGR Cooler and noticed in stead of two there are actually 3 hoses maybe 3/4 in diameter, In addition there is a smaller hose maybe 1/4 inch running over to the upper radiater hose. I did not see any electrical hookups. Does anyone know how to bypass this egr cooler ? Is it complicated to do?
Yesterday tried to bypass the EGR/cooler and was unsucessful. I did connect the two hoses coming from downward the engine block on the side. I then filled the rediater with water andCan you use a tee? Connect the large ones end to end with the 1/4 out the middle? The 1/4 is probably an air bleed?
tried to pressure the system. The problem I ran into was water from the radiater exited the EGR/cooler where one of the hoses had been taken off . This did not happen where the other hose had been taken off. Long story short, I dont know how to route the hoses to isolate the EGR/intercooler so that pressure can be applied to the radiater to check for a head gasket or worse problem below?
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