S150 no start.

gwilkrrs

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 9, 2013
Messages
66
So my machine has been acting up I thought battery was dead so I jumped it. It ran for a couple minutes and turned off. Ok I jumped it and left it hooked up thinking alternator was bad and battery needed full charge Ran for the 20 minutes I needed then I went away for 2 weeks Back home machine stared up and ran for 10 min (all I needed) 2 days later started machine and ran for 5 min- turned it off to talk and dead no crank— Opened back up and checked connections and it started- running 5 min later and it shut off while moving- lights flickering and a clicking under or behind me- dead with key Jumped it and nothing. No clicks or anything I have no clue- I am going to remove the ignition switch and check it in am but am pretty lost
 
Check your battery terminals for corrosion, and where the negative cable attaches to the frame. It sounds like an intermittent connection, most likely a ground.
Also, it would be a good idea to pull and reseat any relays in the bay so they all have a fresh contact pattern as well. The shutting down would seem to be the fuel solenoid losing it's ground, and releasing. At least that makes sense to me.
 
Check your battery terminals for corrosion, and where the negative cable attaches to the frame. It sounds like an intermittent connection, most likely a ground.
Also, it would be a good idea to pull and reseat any relays in the bay so they all have a fresh contact pattern as well. The shutting down would seem to be the fuel solenoid losing it's ground, and releasing. At least that makes sense to me.
Thanks I am going to look for. Fuse box also and check terminals for contacts It can't be too hard to find
 
Thanks I am going to look for. Fuse box also and check terminals for contacts It can't be too hard to find
Please give me more details on this, what happens when it dies, do you loose all panel power?
I was just about to do a post on my S250 that a mate and I seem to have sorted out after about 12 months of trying different things without success, so i left it.
I don't know if your symptoms match mine, but i'd turn the ignition key and the panels would not light up, then some times it would, then turn off. It used to run for a while, shut down, flick the key and it worked but eventually it was totally random to the point nothing worked. I'd grab a harness and shake it, some times it would fire up, but the issue was not there.
I don't get on the frum s much as i used to, but i'll try to keep an eye on this one, feel free to email me (look up my profile). If your issue matches mine, i'll give you points to check as it could be an issue in the right hand panel like mine.
 
Please give me more details on this, what happens when it dies, do you loose all panel power?
I was just about to do a post on my S250 that a mate and I seem to have sorted out after about 12 months of trying different things without success, so i left it.
I don't know if your symptoms match mine, but i'd turn the ignition key and the panels would not light up, then some times it would, then turn off. It used to run for a while, shut down, flick the key and it worked but eventually it was totally random to the point nothing worked. I'd grab a harness and shake it, some times it would fire up, but the issue was not there.
I don't get on the frum s much as i used to, but i'll try to keep an eye on this one, feel free to email me (look up my profile). If your issue matches mine, i'll give you points to check as it could be an issue in the right hand panel like mine.
Well nothing at all today- no lights no crank 1sr time the panel lights flickered when it was clicking to try to start- like power was going thru Yesterday when it turned off- panels had dim lites flickering on off rapidly and loud clicking from under seat or in engine compartment- but had good headlines strength Then nothing I checked battery terminals - clean I pulled fuse lid and they were dusty but pulled all out and checked- none burnt Pulled relays out and restock them- Checked wire connections quickly and they seemed ok Tried jumping it and nothing. I checked the main fuse in engine compartment and it looked ok- not sure what it should look like but it didn't seem weird
 
Well nothing at all today- no lights no crank 1sr time the panel lights flickered when it was clicking to try to start- like power was going thru Yesterday when it turned off- panels had dim lites flickering on off rapidly and loud clicking from under seat or in engine compartment- but had good headlines strength Then nothing I checked battery terminals - clean I pulled fuse lid and they were dusty but pulled all out and checked- none burnt Pulled relays out and restock them- Checked wire connections quickly and they seemed ok Tried jumping it and nothing. I checked the main fuse in engine compartment and it looked ok- not sure what it should look like but it didn't seem weird
Forgot- yesterday I turned key and nothing for a second then it started right away- like I turned the key - held it on and there was like a delay until it started I pulled the right panel and center panel down and wires back there looked goood Right panel has 2 wire connectors 1 from the ignition to the panel and then a connector into the panel
 
Forgot- yesterday I turned key and nothing for a second then it started right away- like I turned the key - held it on and there was like a delay until it started I pulled the right panel and center panel down and wires back there looked goood Right panel has 2 wire connectors 1 from the ignition to the panel and then a connector into the panel
It appears that it might be switch related. A quick and free test would be to take off a battery cable (to avoid subjecting the starter and electrics to abuse), spray some contact cleaner or WD-40 into the key slot, then cycle the switch throughout its range several times. That should clean up any gummy terminals that might be causing issues.
 
It appears that it might be switch related. A quick and free test would be to take off a battery cable (to avoid subjecting the starter and electrics to abuse), spray some contact cleaner or WD-40 into the key slot, then cycle the switch throughout its range several times. That should clean up any gummy terminals that might be causing issues.
yesterday i started machine right up- 1st try moved 10' when it stopped running while moving. cycled key and nothing at all. 10 min later tried it again and got repetative clicks from relay and dash lights flickering on and off with the relay. tried to clean key slot but no luck shorted starter bolts and got it to crank strong so i dont think its battery. pulled ignition switch to check backside but it is sealed so now i dont know how to check/test it? replacement switches seem to have plug in connector?
 
yesterday i started machine right up- 1st try moved 10' when it stopped running while moving. cycled key and nothing at all. 10 min later tried it again and got repetative clicks from relay and dash lights flickering on and off with the relay. tried to clean key slot but no luck shorted starter bolts and got it to crank strong so i dont think its battery. pulled ignition switch to check backside but it is sealed so now i dont know how to check/test it? replacement switches seem to have plug in connector?
I think that a switch replacement might be a good place to start. no pun intended. and it would be something to take off the list of potential problems and they are not that much of a cost.
 
I think that a switch replacement might be a good place to start. no pun intended. and it would be something to take off the list of potential problems and they are not that much of a cost.
lol- that was good either way i have looked but the replacements seem to be plugging in with conectors on both sides- mine seems to be sealed on the switch side with just wires coming out of it and a conector on the dash end. thoughts?
 
lol- that was good either way i have looked but the replacements seem to be plugging in with conectors on both sides- mine seems to be sealed on the switch side with just wires coming out of it and a conector on the dash end. thoughts?
can you find a # on the switch maybe you can cross it over to a direct connect aftermarket replacement switch or get into a parts manual get a # and go from there. just make sure you use your serial # so you lessen the chance to get a wrong part #.
 
can you find a # on the switch maybe you can cross it over to a direct connect aftermarket replacement switch or get into a parts manual get a # and go from there. just make sure you use your serial # so you lessen the chance to get a wrong part #.
I went through something like with with my S250
Check votage on the right panel on the red wire of the switch, see if you get 12v, with the key on, it joines white and red together, see if you still ge 12v there
I had my battery on charge, battery voltage was 14v, the switch read 12 (2 volts low) with the key on, it dropped to 5v, no lights.
The clicking you are hearing as the panel flickers is the switched power relay turning on and off, i had this click too.
 
I went through something like with with my S250
Check votage on the right panel on the red wire of the switch, see if you get 12v, with the key on, it joines white and red together, see if you still ge 12v there
I had my battery on charge, battery voltage was 14v, the switch read 12 (2 volts low) with the key on, it dropped to 5v, no lights.
The clicking you are hearing as the panel flickers is the switched power relay turning on and off, i had this click too.
I forgot to add, one test to check the switch is to use an alligator clip on the two pins on the panel that match white and red, this should make the panel light up if the switch was bad.
 
I forgot to add, one test to check the switch is to use an alligator clip on the two pins on the panel that match white and red, this should make the panel light up if the switch was bad.
So I was able to "borrow" a panel with a switch in it to try and see if it's the switch or panel Nothing- no noise or click. I guess it's not the panel or cylinder- I took the wires off the main fuse and put them together to see if the main fuse was bad- nothing I pulled the fuse panel and checked backside- it looked dry and clean- all fuses are ok and I moved the relays around to test- Nothing Key on I shorted the 2 starter terminals out and it cranks right up- battery is till good I am trying to find a wire diagram to see where wires are to try to find the grounds and check I popped the cab and wiggled all wire. Connectors and such- all looks good to the eye——-
 
So I was able to "borrow" a panel with a switch in it to try and see if it's the switch or panel Nothing- no noise or click. I guess it's not the panel or cylinder- I took the wires off the main fuse and put them together to see if the main fuse was bad- nothing I pulled the fuse panel and checked backside- it looked dry and clean- all fuses are ok and I moved the relays around to test- Nothing Key on I shorted the 2 starter terminals out and it cranks right up- battery is till good I am trying to find a wire diagram to see where wires are to try to find the grounds and check I popped the cab and wiggled all wire. Connectors and such- all looks good to the eye——-
i pulled the headliner to chase the wires into the cab- nothing obvious as they are all in loom..... i will pull wires from battery and clean- i just dont think power is getting to the panel- my buddy hasnt made it over to run tests with a meter- i have a meter but not the knowlege needed to use it usefully. i did put it on the battery terminals to get 12v though
 
i pulled the headliner to chase the wires into the cab- nothing obvious as they are all in loom..... i will pull wires from battery and clean- i just dont think power is getting to the panel- my buddy hasnt made it over to run tests with a meter- i have a meter but not the knowlege needed to use it usefully. i did put it on the battery terminals to get 12v though
i pulled both batt terminals wires off, cleaned all conectors and nothing. pulled starter wires and cleaned, nothing, pulled ground at from batt to frame (short wire)and cleaned, nothing pulled grounds off motor at back, nothing, went to pull main fuse and wrench must have touched frame and fuse cause big sparks........ bypassed fuse with wire to wire and nothing. i took my ignition panel to other machine i borrowed panel from and my panel fired that machine right away- definitely not my cylinder or panel the problem i just dont think there is power to my machine. i am heading back to trace more wires today
 
i pulled both batt terminals wires off, cleaned all conectors and nothing. pulled starter wires and cleaned, nothing, pulled ground at from batt to frame (short wire)and cleaned, nothing pulled grounds off motor at back, nothing, went to pull main fuse and wrench must have touched frame and fuse cause big sparks........ bypassed fuse with wire to wire and nothing. i took my ignition panel to other machine i borrowed panel from and my panel fired that machine right away- definitely not my cylinder or panel the problem i just dont think there is power to my machine. i am heading back to trace more wires today
have seen where a crack in the insulation let water in and sit inside wires letting them break down , thru time high amps being drawn broke wires to the point they went open on the outside of the wires they looked ok but really there for a short distance inside sheath there was no wire. just a possibility.
 
have seen where a crack in the insulation let water in and sit inside wires letting them break down , thru time high amps being drawn broke wires to the point they went open on the outside of the wires they looked ok but really there for a short distance inside sheath there was no wire. just a possibility.
I did send him a wiring diagram, so when your buddy ets to look at it, you can work out what wires run where and you can inject power to these points if it's not there. It will give power a different route if a wire is broken and you can't see it.
This is how i was going to tackle mine, we just got lucky finding the issue at the panel.
 
I did send him a wiring diagram, so when your buddy ets to look at it, you can work out what wires run where and you can inject power to these points if it's not there. It will give power a different route if a wire is broken and you can't see it.
This is how i was going to tackle mine, we just got lucky finding the issue at the panel.
so here is a question- should a starter crank from just shorting out the 2 posts or should the key need to be on? i thought the key needed to be on to complete the circuit? mine cranked without the key panel even being wired.......
 
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