5625 Diesel Will Run for 2 Seconds and Die

[Blaine Man]

Just happened yesterday at the worst place, was only running the machine for 10 minutes before dying. I have been working it hard for the past week for two hours a day. I do have fresh fuel and completely new filters installed for everything. It runs for two seconds then dies every time I turn it over, twenty times already. I will try it this morning cold and see what happens, I see there is a temperature switch to the fuel shut off switch. If this switch was activated it should not run for the short time? I will also pull my air cleaner apart to make sure there is no uninvited guests. I do have a new primary (L.H. side) fuel filter which I will change for the third step. I will try to remote start it if I can readily get to the starter. There is a pipe fitting on top of L.H. filter housing which I assume is for air bleed. Sure seems to me as air lock. The machine has been sitting out in 90 degree temperatures. I do have a Diesel farm tractor and am way knowledgeable about the basics. Any ideas, Thank You and be safe?

 

[foton]

if you are sure all your fluids are ok is it possible to safety wire the fuel cutoff in the open position and move the skid steer to a better location.

 

[flyerdan]

if you are sure all your fluids are ok is it possible to safety wire the fuel cutoff in the open position and move the skid steer to a better location.

I would strongly suspect the thermal shutdown circuit, especially if it dies abruptly, rather than slowing to a stop as in fuel starvation.
Not knowing the electrical architecture, I can't offer a definite solution, but if I was designing it I would feed 12v through the thermal switch to the fuel solenoid, so if the switch wire came off it would die.
Get a DMM and see what the voltages are with the ignition on before trying to start it, and then again after it dies. Chances are it will be as described, and you can get out the jumper wires with the alligator clips and get it to run, at least to a more service friendly location.
Of course, if it starts and runs normally after cooling down, it's likely that everything was working as intended, then you need to find what caused the overheat condition.

 

[Blaine Man]

I would strongly suspect the thermal shutdown circuit, especially if it dies abruptly, rather than slowing to a stop as in fuel starvation.
Not knowing the electrical architecture, I can't offer a definite solution, but if I was designing it I would feed 12v through the thermal switch to the fuel solenoid, so if the switch wire came off it would die.
Get a DMM and see what the voltages are with the ignition on before trying to start it, and then again after it dies. Chances are it will be as described, and you can get out the jumper wires with the alligator clips and get it to run, at least to a more service friendly location.
Of course, if it starts and runs normally after cooling down, it's likely that everything was working as intended, then you need to find what caused the overheat condition.

It is the same condition trying to cold start it. Today is to bad of day to get into it with it due to heat and thunder storms coming. I will contact my guy that rebuilds my injection pumps, he is pretty knowledgeable about injection systems. The remote starter will be easy to hook up so no help will be needed on that field. I have suspicions that it is the key switch, the glow plug light and timer is not working in the first position, I noticed that on the day it died. With the motor running for two seconds every time then dying it makes it interesting. Problem is, I do not need a mystery on my hands! Be safe everybody!

 

[flyerdan]

It is the same condition trying to cold start it. Today is to bad of day to get into it with it due to heat and thunder storms coming. I will contact my guy that rebuilds my injection pumps, he is pretty knowledgeable about injection systems. The remote starter will be easy to hook up so no help will be needed on that field. I have suspicions that it is the key switch, the glow plug light and timer is not working in the first position, I noticed that on the day it died. With the motor running for two seconds every time then dying it makes it interesting. Problem is, I do not need a mystery on my hands! Be safe everybody!

If you suspect it's the key switch, take off the negative battery cable, shoot some contact cleaner down the key slot (WD40 will work in a pinch), and cycle the key throughout its range several times. They often just crud up with gunk and don't make good contact, flushing them out clears that and lets it make the right contacts again. At any rate, it doesn't cost anything but a couple minutes time, and might allow you to get it to a better location for further troubleshooting.

 

[Blaine Man]

If you suspect it's the key switch, take off the negative battery cable, shoot some contact cleaner down the key slot (WD40 will work in a pinch), and cycle the key throughout its range several times. They often just crud up with gunk and don't make good contact, flushing them out clears that and lets it make the right contacts again. At any rate, it doesn't cost anything but a couple minutes time, and might allow you to get it to a better location for further troubleshooting.

Cool, I never heard that trick, I will give it a try. First has to be taking the air cleaner off and see if that could be it, then the fuel/electrical.

 

[Blaine Man]

Cool, I never heard that trick, I will give it a try. First has to be taking the air cleaner off and see if that could be it, then the fuel/electrical.

It was a bad hot wire lead going into the 30 amp fuse. Both ends were corroded on the wires. These fuses are not easy to find, be sure to keep a spare or you could be down for a couple days. Just for the sake of future knowledge a decade down the road. The left hand fuel filter mounted on the side of the frame has a bleeder on the bottom to allow you to drain the water if needed. The second filter has a bleeder screw on top that will allow you to bleed the lines if needed. The Gehl is working great going through about 45 yards in two hours. Still looking at a few weeks of work. A lot of back up time due to the hazards of turning around on a dike. Thank You for all the suggestions and be safe!