873 G series lift arm cylinder removal

[bsiler]

Both of my lift arm cylinders are leaking. What to have them rebuilt. Any tricks to getting them off? Especially the bottom pin. Billy

 

[farmshop]

The bottom pins can be a bear. I have welded nuts to the end and attached a slide hammer puller and still had to heat the bosses. Many times they have a lip on them. I would look at disassembling the cylinder while on the loader. If you support the boom with it raised some you could possibly pull the rod out

 

[bsiler]

The bottom pins can be a bear. I have welded nuts to the end and attached a slide hammer puller and still had to heat the bosses. Many times they have a lip on them. I would look at disassembling the cylinder while on the loader. If you support the boom with it raised some you could possibly pull the rod out

Thanks for the quick reply. I had heard of them possibly being done without removing them. I have no experience with putting the new seals in. I hadn't thought about taking just the rods to a cylinder shop. Is that possible? I have only had one cylinder repaired before and it was a small one off of a wood splitter. Billy

 

[flyerdan]

Thanks for the quick reply. I had heard of them possibly being done without removing them. I have no experience with putting the new seals in. I hadn't thought about taking just the rods to a cylinder shop. Is that possible? I have only had one cylinder repaired before and it was a small one off of a wood splitter. Billy

I'd do them in place as well, less pins to remove, and only the back hydraulic lines would need to come off, reducing the risk of problems later on.
Unless there is some internal damage, there is no need to pull the barrels for a seal job, and unless there is a split, big dent or it has sat with water in it for a long time that would be unlikely.
No shop will guarantee their work without having the whole cylinder, some might not even touch it, but I'd bet that most would prefer the partial cylinder to having a bobcat on a truck and trailer in their lot until they get around to it.

 

[farmshop]

I'd do them in place as well, less pins to remove, and only the back hydraulic lines would need to come off, reducing the risk of problems later on.
Unless there is some internal damage, there is no need to pull the barrels for a seal job, and unless there is a split, big dent or it has sat with water in it for a long time that would be unlikely.
No shop will guarantee their work without having the whole cylinder, some might not even touch it, but I'd bet that most would prefer the partial cylinder to having a bobcat on a truck and trailer in their lot until they get around to it.

If you have the ability to get the cylinder apart in place you could do the seals yourself assuming you can get the piston nut off and the new one tight as it takes a decent amount of torque.