Hello. This forum has been good to me in the past with my old machine. My new problem is when I turn my key on nothing happens. Nothing. No lights in instrument panel. Nothing. Tested ignition switch. It seems ok. I can make it run by jumper wire from solenoid to fuel shut off and shorting starter. I have no juice at small terminals on solenoids when I turn key to on. There is juice to wire that goes to seat sensor. I tried to jumper that and got nothing. Any advice. As always, THANK YOU!!
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Power is sent to the ignition switch from 15A fuse in the engine fuse and relay compartment. It. Should be in the fuse block closest to the engine. There is a 5 A fuse in the same block which sends power to the safety circuit, seat switch, seat belt and eventually the instrument panel. Set the service run switch to the service position and see if the engine will start. This bypasses the safety circuit and instrument panel.
All fuses are good. I have three wires going to seat. One is hot. Will not start in service. No lights anywhere. No juice to fuel shut off. A relay or solenoid clicks when I turn to start position.Power is sent to the ignition switch from 15A fuse in the engine fuse and relay compartment. It. Should be in the fuse block closest to the engine. There is a 5 A fuse in the same block which sends power to the safety circuit, seat switch, seat belt and eventually the instrument panel. Set the service run switch to the service position and see if the engine will start. This bypasses the safety circuit and instrument panel.
In the service position, power goes to the switch from the 15A fuse in the engine compartment. When you turn the key on power goes from the ign switch to the service run switch and from the service run switch to the fuel shut off solenoid. In the start position power goes from the ign switch to the service run switch and then to the start relay under the engine fuse panel. When that relay receives power the relay energizes and send power to the starter relay and it should crank...........In the service position it does not matter if the instrument panel lights or not since it is basically bypassed. If you have power to the battery terminal of the ign switch and power to the ign terminal of the ign switch when the key is turned on and power to the start termianal of the ign switch when the switch is turned to the start position, then the switch is good. The service run switches do go bad from corrosion. There should be no reason if the wiring harness is not damaged that the unit will not start or at least crank in the service postion............The start relay under the engine fuse compartment is the outer one of the two. The other is the cold start relay and that is what you hear when you turn the key on...............In the service position turn the key on and see if you have power to the fuel shut off solenoid on the injection pump. Have some turn the key to the start position while you check one of the small terminals of the start relay under the engine fuse panel. If you have power at one of the small terminals than check if you have power to both large terminals on that relay. If not the relay is bad.All fuses are good. I have three wires going to seat. One is hot. Will not start in service. No lights anywhere. No juice to fuel shut off. A relay or solenoid clicks when I turn to start position.
The first line should read; In the service position When you turn the key on power goes from the ign switch to the service run switch and from the service run switch to the fuel shut off solenoid. In the start position power goes from the ign switch to the service run switch and then to the start relay under the engine fuse panel.In the service position, power goes to the switch from the 15A fuse in the engine compartment. When you turn the key on power goes from the ign switch to the service run switch and from the service run switch to the fuel shut off solenoid. In the start position power goes from the ign switch to the service run switch and then to the start relay under the engine fuse panel. When that relay receives power the relay energizes and send power to the starter relay and it should crank...........In the service position it does not matter if the instrument panel lights or not since it is basically bypassed. If you have power to the battery terminal of the ign switch and power to the ign terminal of the ign switch when the key is turned on and power to the start termianal of the ign switch when the switch is turned to the start position, then the switch is good. The service run switches do go bad from corrosion. There should be no reason if the wiring harness is not damaged that the unit will not start or at least crank in the service postion............The start relay under the engine fuse compartment is the outer one of the two. The other is the cold start relay and that is what you hear when you turn the key on...............In the service position turn the key on and see if you have power to the fuel shut off solenoid on the injection pump. Have some turn the key to the start position while you check one of the small terminals of the start relay under the engine fuse panel. If you have power at one of the small terminals than check if you have power to both large terminals on that relay. If not the relay is bad.
Well. This is where I am at: 1) The service run switch was very stiff. I could barely get it to flip. So I put a new one in. 2) At the start interlock relay, I had no juice in on position at the Light Blue/Orange wires that go to the fuel solenoid and #5 pin of the EIC Board. So I replaced it. 3) The start relay did not work. So I replaced it. 4) I've removed the seat switch and tested it twice. It works. The seat belt switch has been modified by previous owner. It appears to be closed circuit, so I think it is functional. 5) When I disconnect the seat harness and sit in seat, all three wires have continuity with ohmmeter. 6) I have 12 volts to five wires at EIC: Red/Light Green #14, Tan/White #4, Light Green #11, Orange #12, and Light Green/Black #11. The black wire is ground. 7) I still do not have any juice at the Light Blue/Orange wires on start interlock relay, which go to EIC #5 and fuel solenoid. The machine will now start in the service position. It will also start in the run position, but as soon as I release key from start to run, the fuel shuts off. I have no lights in the EIC. Background info: Prior to EIC lights failing, an employee told me the EIC was remaining lit up after he exited the seat. I didn't follow up and forgot about it. It sat for a couple weeks, then no lights whatsoever. This morning when I was testing things, it lit a couple time when I tried to start the machine. It flashed. Lights only for about a half second. I suspect the EIC is shot. I suspect it feeds power to the start interlock relay to power fuel shutoff solenoid when running. Am I on the right track? Is there a definitive test for EIC? Thanks a bunch, as always.The first line should read; In the service position When you turn the key on power goes from the ign switch to the service run switch and from the service run switch to the fuel shut off solenoid. In the start position power goes from the ign switch to the service run switch and then to the start relay under the engine fuse panel.
The seat belt connection is part of the problem. The system needs to see things done in the proper order for it to work. It must see you sit in the seat first, then it must see the seat belt fastened before it will send power to the interlock relay. With the seat belt permanently bypassed the system is seeing things done out of order. During cranking power is sent from the ignition switch to the interlock relay so the engine may start, but if there is no power from the EIC it will die as soon as you release the ing switch................To start you must have power at pin 14 at all times, pin 12 with the ign switch on, pin 4 with the seat switch activated, pin 11 when the seat belt is fastened and you are in the seat. Pin 13 is ground. Pin 5 supplies power to the interlock relay when the engine is running in the run mode. Pin 2 may have power for the preheat circuit. All these pins are on the longer connector. The smaller connector is for the monitor circuits. Your ground in the your post is actually the engine oil pressure circuit.Well. This is where I am at: 1) The service run switch was very stiff. I could barely get it to flip. So I put a new one in. 2) At the start interlock relay, I had no juice in on position at the Light Blue/Orange wires that go to the fuel solenoid and #5 pin of the EIC Board. So I replaced it. 3) The start relay did not work. So I replaced it. 4) I've removed the seat switch and tested it twice. It works. The seat belt switch has been modified by previous owner. It appears to be closed circuit, so I think it is functional. 5) When I disconnect the seat harness and sit in seat, all three wires have continuity with ohmmeter. 6) I have 12 volts to five wires at EIC: Red/Light Green #14, Tan/White #4, Light Green #11, Orange #12, and Light Green/Black #11. The black wire is ground. 7) I still do not have any juice at the Light Blue/Orange wires on start interlock relay, which go to EIC #5 and fuel solenoid. The machine will now start in the service position. It will also start in the run position, but as soon as I release key from start to run, the fuel shuts off. I have no lights in the EIC. Background info: Prior to EIC lights failing, an employee told me the EIC was remaining lit up after he exited the seat. I didn't follow up and forgot about it. It sat for a couple weeks, then no lights whatsoever. This morning when I was testing things, it lit a couple time when I tried to start the machine. It flashed. Lights only for about a half second. I suspect the EIC is shot. I suspect it feeds power to the start interlock relay to power fuel shutoff solenoid when running. Am I on the right track? Is there a definitive test for EIC? Thanks a bunch, as always.
Update. I removed EIC. I cleaned it with electrical cleaner. Plugged it back in and everything worked! It started in run. The display worked. It ran. I turned it off. Tried it again. It worked again. Ran it for about five minutes. Everything good. Turned it off. Tried it again. Nothing. Same as before. it will start in service and run. It will start in run but as soon as key leaves start position to run, it quits. I removed EIC again. Cleaned it again. Still nothing. I rechecked all the power circuits going to EIC. All good. I tried with correct sequence with seat and seat belt switch. Still nothing. The EIC board is in rough shape. It appears some mice peed on it. I am fairly convinced it is a bad EIC. It ran fine since I bought machine with seat belt switch permanently closed. But I would like to be absolute before I purchase a $700 EIC. Is there any diagnostic that would conclusively prove EIC is the problem?The seat belt connection is part of the problem. The system needs to see things done in the proper order for it to work. It must see you sit in the seat first, then it must see the seat belt fastened before it will send power to the interlock relay. With the seat belt permanently bypassed the system is seeing things done out of order. During cranking power is sent from the ignition switch to the interlock relay so the engine may start, but if there is no power from the EIC it will die as soon as you release the ing switch................To start you must have power at pin 14 at all times, pin 12 with the ign switch on, pin 4 with the seat switch activated, pin 11 when the seat belt is fastened and you are in the seat. Pin 13 is ground. Pin 5 supplies power to the interlock relay when the engine is running in the run mode. Pin 2 may have power for the preheat circuit. All these pins are on the longer connector. The smaller connector is for the monitor circuits. Your ground in the your post is actually the engine oil pressure circuit.
I had the exact same issue a while back. I swapped out the control board and the problem was solved...something in the control board goes bad and it wont keep voltage to the fuel shut off solenoid to keep the machine running. I would just double check that there isn't a broken wire up near the control board that is making intermittent contact. It sure sounds like a control board, and it its in bad shape you might as well replace it...Update. I removed EIC. I cleaned it with electrical cleaner. Plugged it back in and everything worked! It started in run. The display worked. It ran. I turned it off. Tried it again. It worked again. Ran it for about five minutes. Everything good. Turned it off. Tried it again. Nothing. Same as before. it will start in service and run. It will start in run but as soon as key leaves start position to run, it quits. I removed EIC again. Cleaned it again. Still nothing. I rechecked all the power circuits going to EIC. All good. I tried with correct sequence with seat and seat belt switch. Still nothing. The EIC board is in rough shape. It appears some mice peed on it. I am fairly convinced it is a bad EIC. It ran fine since I bought machine with seat belt switch permanently closed. But I would like to be absolute before I purchase a $700 EIC. Is there any diagnostic that would conclusively prove EIC is the problem?