L555 Hydraulic Charge Question

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JohnDV

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Dec 22, 2013
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Hi, I'm new to the forum and have a question regarding my hydraulic's. I've been checking my hydraulic fluid at regular intervals and recently noticed my fluid was milky so here's what I did (hopefully I didn't goof up something) I thought I'd flush the system twice to try and get the contaminated fluid out. 1.) I put some seafoam in the hydraulics and ran for about 15ming worked fine not issues. 2.) Lifted and locked out boom. Then drained all the hydraulic fluid. 3.) Cleaned screen (not to bad) Then just added about 16gal of J20C . I figured I'd run for a few days then do it again w/new filters. 4.) Started up, and charge light is solid and won't go off. It's in my garage with the boom up and seems I can't get any hydraulic pressure to lift boom off locks and run it around a bit. Please tell me I didn't just goof up something really badly. Thanks in advance. -JohnDV
 
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JohnDV

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Dec 22, 2013
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I finally got the boom down. (via methods I won't mention in this forum). I started the skidsteer and the charge light was still on solid. So I blocked the machine up off the tires and allowed the wheels to spin without resistance. After about 5min it got better then after about 10min the hydraulic light went out. I drove her around a bit working all the hydraulics and it's all better now. I heard of the proper way to get all the contaminants out (tear down all the parts) but I don't have the skills for that. I'll monitor the hydraulic fluid and plan on another flush w/filter change shortly.
 

jerry

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May 3, 2007
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I finally got the boom down. (via methods I won't mention in this forum). I started the skidsteer and the charge light was still on solid. So I blocked the machine up off the tires and allowed the wheels to spin without resistance. After about 5min it got better then after about 10min the hydraulic light went out. I drove her around a bit working all the hydraulics and it's all better now. I heard of the proper way to get all the contaminants out (tear down all the parts) but I don't have the skills for that. I'll monitor the hydraulic fluid and plan on another flush w/filter change shortly.
I would not put seafoam in it again, I like the stuff for cleaning out fuel systems in gas engines but I think it has some fairly strong solvents in it and may hurt the hyd seals. Don't take a chance on it.
 

Mike10

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Apr 22, 2011
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I would not put seafoam in it again, I like the stuff for cleaning out fuel systems in gas engines but I think it has some fairly strong solvents in it and may hurt the hyd seals. Don't take a chance on it.
Next time I would remove the hydraulic pump and reseal it. The internal seals get hard and will not exert enough pressure against the gears for the pump to pick up prime after the oil is drained. It is not a good idea to run the engine for the length of time you did with the charge pressure light on. Without charge pressure there is no lubrication for the hydro pump rotating groups as they spin with the engine. There is oil trapped in the closed loop of the hydro system which can supply lubrication at first, but as the normal leakage occurs this oil is lost and you end up metal on metal which is a killer on hydrostats.
 
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JohnDV

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Dec 22, 2013
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I would not put seafoam in it again, I like the stuff for cleaning out fuel systems in gas engines but I think it has some fairly strong solvents in it and may hurt the hyd seals. Don't take a chance on it.
Thanks for the info, I'll take your advice on that one.
 
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JohnDV

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Dec 22, 2013
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Thanks for the info, I'll take your advice on that one.
Mike10, I don't use my skidsteer much, but I'm planning on changing out the fluid and filters around the first of the year. Are you saying when changing hydraulic fluid and filters, normally the the system will prime itself? And you're thinking that it's my internal hydraulic pump seals that may have cause my unit not to prime? If this is the case, I'll need to hit up my New Holland dealer for seals and I'll need a manual to read up before I start. I only have the owners manual. Thanks
 

jerry

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May 3, 2007
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Mike10, I don't use my skidsteer much, but I'm planning on changing out the fluid and filters around the first of the year. Are you saying when changing hydraulic fluid and filters, normally the the system will prime itself? And you're thinking that it's my internal hydraulic pump seals that may have cause my unit not to prime? If this is the case, I'll need to hit up my New Holland dealer for seals and I'll need a manual to read up before I start. I only have the owners manual. Thanks
If it is below freezing change the filter again also, they retain moisture and will freeze up.
 

Mike10

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Apr 22, 2011
Messages
1,077
Mike10, I don't use my skidsteer much, but I'm planning on changing out the fluid and filters around the first of the year. Are you saying when changing hydraulic fluid and filters, normally the the system will prime itself? And you're thinking that it's my internal hydraulic pump seals that may have cause my unit not to prime? If this is the case, I'll need to hit up my New Holland dealer for seals and I'll need a manual to read up before I start. I only have the owners manual. Thanks
The pump will self prime if the internal seals exert enough pressure against the gears. The oil level is below the pump pickup so the pump must be able to generate a suction. If it will not pickup prime the pump is easy enough to remove. Remove the seat and the front kick plate. The pump is right there. Two bolts and two hoses and the pump comes right out. Scribe a couple of lines across the three sections before disassembly. Remove the bolts and separate the sections. Replace the seals and reassemble aligning the scribed marks.
 

Cobra-R

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Joined
Jan 25, 2013
Messages
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Mike10, I don't use my skidsteer much, but I'm planning on changing out the fluid and filters around the first of the year. Are you saying when changing hydraulic fluid and filters, normally the the system will prime itself? And you're thinking that it's my internal hydraulic pump seals that may have cause my unit not to prime? If this is the case, I'll need to hit up my New Holland dealer for seals and I'll need a manual to read up before I start. I only have the owners manual. Thanks
On the L555's...if you drained the hydraulic system and refilled it, they would do exactly as you described. The trick is to fill the system with the cap off of the suction screen (I would actually fill the system through there because you can pour oil in faster). If you fill the system with that cap on, it would get air locked since that is the high spot of the system. Brian
 

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