BobCat 721

[wisconsinjimmy]

Need some help on this, I need to replace all axle bearings and seals and yes I removed the engine, took one side plate off as the manual tells me I have to remove the big chain and I should turn the chains with a socket wrench which I did on the disc caliper, marked where I started and went one full rev but no master link. Not to confuse the issue but I can see on the right front axle that it has been removed (silicone) and as I mentioned no master link. Do I need to remove this chain (6510171 LINK connector, #80 H.S. chain - Press Fit )

 

[brdgbldr]

My 742 did not have master links. Not sure if your 721 is set up the same or not, but I just removed the sprocket with the chain on it. You may have to pull the axle and let the sprocket and chain slide off. There should be enough play in the chain to do this without too much difficulty.

 

[wisconsinjimmy]

My 742 did not have master links. Not sure if your 721 is set up the same or not, but I just removed the sprocket with the chain on it. You may have to pull the axle and let the sprocket and chain slide off. There should be enough play in the chain to do this without too much difficulty.

I am thinking they are all the same with the 700 series, if you were able to leave the chain on the sprocket how hard was it to put the axle back in? I have ordered a chain breaker from my local Tractor Supply which will work on roller chains from #60 to #100 for $30.00. Also I have a #80 master link but I am not sure how well they will hold up to the abuse this chain takes.

 

[brdgbldr]

I am thinking they are all the same with the 700 series, if you were able to leave the chain on the sprocket how hard was it to put the axle back in? I have ordered a chain breaker from my local Tractor Supply which will work on roller chains from #60 to #100 for $30.00. Also I have a #80 master link but I am not sure how well they will hold up to the abuse this chain takes.

I was able to get the sprocket with the chain back on by myself. However, when I replaced my seals and bearings, I removed the the entire bottom end instead of removing the engine and pump, so I had a lot more room to work. You will probably need a helper with the cab and fenders in your way. Make sure you check for play in the axles before removing them. If you have any play you will need to get, or machine, the washers with the proper inset to take out the play. Bobcat sells them in several different sizes but from what I remember they were about $60 a piece. Tazza suggested, on other posts, machining them yourself or finding someone to machine them for you.

 

[wisconsinjimmy]

I was able to get the sprocket with the chain back on by myself. However, when I replaced my seals and bearings, I removed the the entire bottom end instead of removing the engine and pump, so I had a lot more room to work. You will probably need a helper with the cab and fenders in your way. Make sure you check for play in the axles before removing them. If you have any play you will need to get, or machine, the washers with the proper inset to take out the play. Bobcat sells them in several different sizes but from what I remember they were about $60 a piece. Tazza suggested, on other posts, machining them yourself or finding someone to machine them for you.

Hi, I removed the right front axle once I was able to split the chain and pull it out of the side case (what a job) Just removing the tension-er was a herculean feat next I removed the inside cover to get access to the axle nut and there I got held up until I received some help to remove the locking bolt and then I was able to get the axle out. I also found out I need four more bearings and race. I am hoping to find cheaper bearings then LoaderParts (timkin LM104949) if not then I am only going to replace the inner bear as it has to be removed to put on a new seal. What really causes problems is the cage as I cannot remove it due to some bungling hog rancher that welded brackets etc and also has the bolt in wrong so it cannot be withdrawn, so with the cage tilted forward and the boom down there is a lot of ducking and leaning. It is amazing how manure can just destroy a machine in short order, I have until October to get it done and ready for winter.

 

[Tazza]

Hi, I removed the right front axle once I was able to split the chain and pull it out of the side case (what a job) Just removing the tension-er was a herculean feat next I removed the inside cover to get access to the axle nut and there I got held up until I received some help to remove the locking bolt and then I was able to get the axle out. I also found out I need four more bearings and race. I am hoping to find cheaper bearings then LoaderParts (timkin LM104949) if not then I am only going to replace the inner bear as it has to be removed to put on a new seal. What really causes problems is the cage as I cannot remove it due to some bungling hog rancher that welded brackets etc and also has the bolt in wrong so it cannot be withdrawn, so with the cage tilted forward and the boom down there is a lot of ducking and leaning. It is amazing how manure can just destroy a machine in short order, I have until October to get it done and ready for winter.

Check ebay for bearings, you may be surprised. I'd still stick with a name brand, not some cheap chinese no name branded one.
I did all 4 axles on my 743 and i think it ran me a few hundred, but i knew they were rite.

 

[wisconsinjimmy]

Check ebay for bearings, you may be surprised. I'd still stick with a name brand, not some cheap chinese no name branded one.
I did all 4 axles on my 743 and i think it ran me a few hundred, but i knew they were rite.

Right side axle housings and axles are removed and will drop them off in the morning to have the outer bearing pressed on, where I am having a hard time reading and understanding my manual is how do I get the axle seal into the housing (lot C and later). This is really a leaning experience. The bearings I received from Loaderparts are made in China also my son did a search and found the bearings on Rock Auto, all my complaining about the price was stupid as I just noticed that for $48.00 I got the complete axle kit, 2 bearings, 2 races, and seal good price and the china bearings will work as all this machine is going to be used for is snow removal on my driveway. Anyway if someone can tell me how to get the seal in the housing square would sure help. Jim

 

[jerry]

Right side axle housings and axles are removed and will drop them off in the morning to have the outer bearing pressed on, where I am having a hard time reading and understanding my manual is how do I get the axle seal into the housing (lot C and later). This is really a leaning experience. The bearings I received from Loaderparts are made in China also my son did a search and found the bearings on Rock Auto, all my complaining about the price was stupid as I just noticed that for $48.00 I got the complete axle kit, 2 bearings, 2 races, and seal good price and the china bearings will work as all this machine is going to be used for is snow removal on my driveway. Anyway if someone can tell me how to get the seal in the housing square would sure help. Jim

I think antfarmer2 said he used pvc pipe for a driver for the seals on the 743. Check his past posts.

 

[antfarmer2]

I think antfarmer2 said he used pvc pipe for a driver for the seals on the 743. Check his past posts.

Hi Jerry I use the pvc and plug for the drive motor case seal for the axle seal I used Tazza's trick and cut the old race in half then hold on the axle with a hose clamp and tap the hub worked great but I had to use two races I used a pvc pipe to tap the bearings on......becareful with the seals and lube them good I did and still had a leaker that I have to redo one glad it was the front!!!!!!!

 

[antfarmer2]

Hi Jerry I use the pvc and plug for the drive motor case seal for the axle seal I used Tazza's trick and cut the old race in half then hold on the axle with a hose clamp and tap the hub worked great but I had to use two races I used a pvc pipe to tap the bearings on......becareful with the seals and lube them good I did and still had a leaker that I have to redo one glad it was the front!!!!!!!

Have you got the race's in yet? That was the hard part for me don't forget the locktight

 

[wisconsinjimmy]

Have you got the race's in yet? That was the hard part for me don't forget the locktight

I have not removed the races yet, I have been calling around to get prices on this from a few implement dealers and Tri-State Bobcat, all want an hourly price of $100.00 and from what I gather an hour per axle to remove the bearings and race and install. So I did the next thing and bought a 12T floor press for a lot less then $400.00. Now to go out to the shop and knock off the races and get everything cleaned up as the press will be here on Friday. I will not pay anyone that kind of ransom.

 

[antfarmer2]

I have not removed the races yet, I have been calling around to get prices on this from a few implement dealers and Tri-State Bobcat, all want an hourly price of $100.00 and from what I gather an hour per axle to remove the bearings and race and install. So I did the next thing and bought a 12T floor press for a lot less then $400.00. Now to go out to the shop and knock off the races and get everything cleaned up as the press will be here on Friday. I will not pay anyone that kind of ransom.

Im with you on that but you will be cussing a bit lol.......did you read my post on useing the pipe to put the bearings on alot cheaper

 

[wisconsinjimmy]

Im with you on that but you will be cussing a bit lol.......did you read my post on useing the pipe to put the bearings on alot cheaper

Yup, it seems to show the bullheadedness in some of us as we know it would be a lot easier on our brains just to take it in pay for it (Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr gritting teeth) and get it done, BUT and that is a big word I am just going to buy a press (needed one anyway) do it my self and still be $300.00 there about to the good, just have to wait until Fri before it arrives. Mean time I am chipping rust and wire brushing the parts to get them clean for fresh paint. PIPE got to remember to print this thread out on paper.

 

[antfarmer2]

Yup, it seems to show the bullheadedness in some of us as we know it would be a lot easier on our brains just to take it in pay for it (Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr gritting teeth) and get it done, BUT and that is a big word I am just going to buy a press (needed one anyway) do it my self and still be $300.00 there about to the good, just have to wait until Fri before it arrives. Mean time I am chipping rust and wire brushing the parts to get them clean for fresh paint. PIPE got to remember to print this thread out on paper.

Make sure you clean and polish where the seal rides mine had wear sleaves not sure if yours has them....did you,get the races out?

 

[wisconsinjimmy]

Make sure you clean and polish where the seal rides mine had wear sleaves not sure if yours has them....did you,get the races out?

I have not taken the races out yet, will probably do it Wed, got to find my big (long) punch although I could grind or saw them out but will try the punch first.

 

[antfarmer2]

I have not taken the races out yet, will probably do it Wed, got to find my big (long) punch although I could grind or saw them out but will try the punch first.

I just got 6' metal pipe aka cheater bar and knocked them out went from one side to the other and whaked it with a slege poped right out getting the inside ones back in a bit more fur

 

[wisconsinjimmy]

I just got 6' metal pipe aka cheater bar and knocked them out went from one side to the other and whaked it with a slege poped right out getting the inside ones back in a bit more fur

When installing the inner bearing is there a certain measurement the bearing should be above the flange as I might have it to tight. Thanks for the help Jim

 

[jerry]

When installing the inner bearing is there a certain measurement the bearing should be above the flange as I might have it to tight. Thanks for the help Jim

depending on location if you can put a weld on the part of the race where the bearing ran then when it cools it will generally be loose in the bore.

 

[wisconsinjimmy]

depending on location if you can put a weld on the part of the race where the bearing ran then when it cools it will generally be loose in the bore.

To get the proper tension on the axle bearing or at least I think I have the proper tension I pushed the inner bearing down to tight and when it got stiff to turn I then blocked the entire axle housing up and tapped the axle back to get it to spin easy. There must be a system to doing it proper but the manual does not say anything about this.