853 Bobcat SN# 512821927 no lift no tilt

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WTF

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Jun 20, 2013
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That wouldn't cause the blinking to change.... The lights are only an indication of the electrical connections. Mainly open, short, short to ground. I don't see the O rings being an issue.
The Dealer told me to replace the Seat switch and magnet....so I did. Bha ha ha yea . it still doesn't work $#@%$%**&
 
OP
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WTF

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Jun 20, 2013
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The Dealer told me to replace the Seat switch and magnet....so I did. Bha ha ha yea . it still doesn't work $#@%$%**&
O.K. , now I'm at wits end....I just got done putting the lap bar switch , magnet and bushing in . And the BICS is still blinking once , all the other lights are on. I can drive it just fine , just the bucket and lift still don't work..
 

OldMachinist

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O.K. , now I'm at wits end....I just got done putting the lap bar switch , magnet and bushing in . And the BICS is still blinking once , all the other lights are on. I can drive it just fine , just the bucket and lift still don't work..
I'd start inspecting the wiring harness for a rub or short.
 

Fishfiles

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I'd start inspecting the wiring harness for a rub or short.
did you try pulling the plug out the bics and checking for corrision or wire burnt out inside the rubber coating at the box plug------I would check to see if voltage is making it to the coil , if it doesn't andyou really need to dump the load and keep working I would take one of them blue wire splicers that you can squeeze over the wire and tap into the wire coming off the coil and run the other end to a voltage source that is only hot when the ignition is on and it should by pass the bics box as far as the tilt and boom lock out goes , it will still code up but operate ----- if you have a bics and it has seat and seat bar on it then I would upgrade to the newer bics box seat sensor elimination kit , if it is still available for that old a machine , which by passes the seat sensor ------
 

Tazza

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did you try pulling the plug out the bics and checking for corrision or wire burnt out inside the rubber coating at the box plug------I would check to see if voltage is making it to the coil , if it doesn't andyou really need to dump the load and keep working I would take one of them blue wire splicers that you can squeeze over the wire and tap into the wire coming off the coil and run the other end to a voltage source that is only hot when the ignition is on and it should by pass the bics box as far as the tilt and boom lock out goes , it will still code up but operate ----- if you have a bics and it has seat and seat bar on it then I would upgrade to the newer bics box seat sensor elimination kit , if it is still available for that old a machine , which by passes the seat sensor ------
If you go that way, be careful about the voltage. I'm not 100% sure they run off 12v, but i do like the idea of running it with switched power.
 
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WTF

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If you go that way, be careful about the voltage. I'm not 100% sure they run off 12v, but i do like the idea of running it with switched power.
thanks guys , I'll give it a try , I'll be back to let you all know what happens. the coil does say 12V on it .
 

Fishfiles

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thanks guys , I'll give it a try , I'll be back to let you all know what happens. the coil does say 12V on it .
it will handle 12 volts , I can think of machines that have been jumped for years ------ another test I didn't mention if you have voltage and it still don't work , then put a screwdriver on the stem which sticks out the end of the nut which holds the coil top the stem , if it is working it will magnetically pull the screwdriver on to the stem
 
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WTF

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Jun 20, 2013
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it will handle 12 volts , I can think of machines that have been jumped for years ------ another test I didn't mention if you have voltage and it still don't work , then put a screwdriver on the stem which sticks out the end of the nut which holds the coil top the stem , if it is working it will magnetically pull the screwdriver on to the stem
I ran a wire from the Red / Green wire plug on the coil , all the way up to the ignition stud on the back of the ignition switch and at first I bummed out because when I started it the light was still blinking , but I gave it a go and wha la .....IT WORKS LIKE A CHARM !!! , Thank you Guys so much !!! YOUR GREAT!!
 

Fishfiles

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Feb 8, 2007
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I ran a wire from the Red / Green wire plug on the coil , all the way up to the ignition stud on the back of the ignition switch and at first I bummed out because when I started it the light was still blinking , but I gave it a go and wha la .....IT WORKS LIKE A CHARM !!! , Thank you Guys so much !!! YOUR GREAT!!
I should have told you there is a two wire uncapped plug that is unused right where the wiring harness starts going up to the cab from the belly , the orange wire is an accesory lead , 18 inches of wire and two blue slices ( which I really hate using those things) and 3 minutes and your fixed up
 

flcmsteve

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Aug 20, 2014
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I should have told you there is a two wire uncapped plug that is unused right where the wiring harness starts going up to the cab from the belly , the orange wire is an accesory lead , 18 inches of wire and two blue slices ( which I really hate using those things) and 3 minutes and your fixed up
Have same problem as WTF and Wtf!!! Was wondering if it is still working. What coil did you jump off of and where is it located??? I need some help. PLEASE
 
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