Changed the seat bar solenoid but still locks up. Could it be air in the Hydraulic system? How about the brake solenoid? How do I check each thing and rectify the problem. Funny thing is when it gets really warm it works fine but it is awful hard to get it up to a good operating temperature when it is minus 30 here. Celcius that is. Also to note sometimes it locks up so hard it stalls the machine and once in a while the oil temperature light comes on but not always.
Help Support SkidSteer Forum:
bobkat843
Well-known member
- Joined
- May 1, 2011
- Messages
- 69
when you say lock up do you mean no hydraulic functions at all or just the drive locks up .If just the drive its sound like the brake solenoid is is activating back to lock. There is three wires to the solenoid itself one to activate and one to hold . does the green button working ok? its usually the foolish activating switch. I would take the switch out and the try running twelve volts female end .hope that helps
Everything locks up and you have to push the green button and it all works again fine. Sometimes have to push the button twice. Sometimes I take it out and it doesn't lock up at all and the next time it is like 30 times in 2 hours. Brakes lock up and hydraulics don't work. Usually happens when travelling not even using the bucket but sometimes it does it when I move the bucket up and down even a few inches to get it out of the shop. G series.
When it locks up, what lights on the dash go out, all of them or just traction and lift/tilt? One of the first things I would check is system voltage running. The controller functions between 9 and 15 volts. Above or below it will do funny things. When it locks up, push and hold the light button to see if there are any codes in the display. If you are still loosing seat bar, flip the cab and look really good at the wiring coming down from the cab and where the cab harness connects into the main frame harness. Those wires and connector are a good place for problems.
7LBSSMALLIE
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2012
- Messages
- 1,294
there is cannon connection between cab and main frame harness that needs looked at right now. clean it dieletric it big silver thing
7LBSSMALLIE
Well-known member
- Joined
- Feb 2, 2012
- Messages
- 1,294
and yea pull batt clean connections. check grounds all grounds. this b first step
7 are you sure about the canon connection, F series those where the remote start plugged in, but on a G series the hardness should run down to what is it, a flat 12 connector on top of the hydraulic tank. Those connectors have their share of problems.
All the lights go out but it starts right up afterwards. Put in new battery and posts but battery posts seem to come loose from time to time. But it always starts after it stalls out.
BEWARE: Loose battery posts / terminals can create a lot of heat & cause 'low-voltage' damage to other electronic parts that would other wise not be damaged. You should consider replacing your battery cables if the terminals can not be securely fastened to your battery posts. You can even use the pre-made automotive style cables that are easily found at most auto parts stores. It is just that important to take care of now versus waiting for the experience / reason why later on. I'd also be willing to bet that these loose connections are part of your stalling issue.
ALSO, make sure your battery is tied down correctly. If it is missing (like so many tie downs are), you can get a brand new one from any auto parts stores for around $5. As someone else on this web-site has said, a loose battery is a leading cause of these machines catching on fire. Invest a few small dollars to keep your machine able to be as strong / reliable as possible.
