543 with slow lift/bucket action

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elbowcarey

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When I bought my 632 took the hyd filter off and it had collapsed internally, bobcat filter also. so then took the port block bronze filter out and it was full of metal wiry shavings. I cleaned out the port block as best I could and noticed that the wheel motors had been changed so that was probably the source of shavings. If your hyd charge pump is bad I think you are pretty much in for a new one, The wear plates in the hydro piston pumps can be resurfaced to a point but hyd pump is a different thing.
Despite all the crud in the 632 I never had anymore trouble after changing filters.
Thanks for your help guys!!! You nailed it Jerry with having an obstruction causing a flow issue.... I would think when this is all over the pressure will resume too.... I almost have the control block out so I will let you guys know what I find and post some pix too..... Does anyone have any thoughts on the oil cooler? Or any other ideas to clean the system ? Thanks Craig
 

Tazza

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Thanks for your help guys!!! You nailed it Jerry with having an obstruction causing a flow issue.... I would think when this is all over the pressure will resume too.... I almost have the control block out so I will let you guys know what I find and post some pix too..... Does anyone have any thoughts on the oil cooler? Or any other ideas to clean the system ? Thanks Craig
On a gear pump, if it's worn, it can't be repaired with sand paper.
Hopefully you can find a good deal on a replacement pump and it will fix the issue.
 
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elbowcarey

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On a gear pump, if it's worn, it can't be repaired with sand paper.
Hopefully you can find a good deal on a replacement pump and it will fix the issue.

Wow! That wasn't fun... Glad it's finally out....Also removed the filter block and pulled the spring/poppet to make sure there was no shavings and it was nice and clean so it's re-installed...
Do you guys have any tips on re-sealing the control block?
 

Tazza

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Wow! That wasn't fun... Glad it's finally out....Also removed the filter block and pulled the spring/poppet to make sure there was no shavings and it was nice and clean so it's re-installed...
Do you guys have any tips on re-sealing the control block?
I just used an Oring pick to get them out, oiled them up and pushed them back in
 
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elbowcarey

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I just used an Oring pick to get them out, oiled them up and pushed them back in
Thanks...Learned the hardway not to mess with the spring/detent balls, I think I shot two birds pulling that cap off!!! Now it's time to start assembly hopefully all is good..... One issue, where the fitting is on the bottem of the hydraulic resevoir tank it leaks. Also it seems like someone already tried to put a bandaid on it with some kind of red caulk... Does anyone know how that fitting is attached or how to remedy this? Thanks
 

OldMachinist

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Thanks...Learned the hardway not to mess with the spring/detent balls, I think I shot two birds pulling that cap off!!! Now it's time to start assembly hopefully all is good..... One issue, where the fitting is on the bottem of the hydraulic resevoir tank it leaks. Also it seems like someone already tried to put a bandaid on it with some kind of red caulk... Does anyone know how that fitting is attached or how to remedy this? Thanks
It depends on your serial number. Early units had a male fitting made on the reservoir and later ones had a female fitting with a male nipple screwed in it. Both then just have a hydraulic hose screwed on.
 

Tazza

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It depends on your serial number. Early units had a male fitting made on the reservoir and later ones had a female fitting with a male nipple screwed in it. Both then just have a hydraulic hose screwed on.
If it's the hose at the bottom of the control block that loops up and conencts to the port block, if you have never changed it and it was patched, you need to change it before you re-install it (hopefully you haven't yet). This hose had a horrible loop and cracks and leaks, you can't access the rotten thing to replace it when the tube lines are in place.
 
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elbowcarey

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If it's the hose at the bottom of the control block that loops up and conencts to the port block, if you have never changed it and it was patched, you need to change it before you re-install it (hopefully you haven't yet). This hose had a horrible loop and cracks and leaks, you can't access the rotten thing to replace it when the tube lines are in place.
Well reinstalled the control block and still waiting on parts.........Here's a pic of the bottom of the hydraulic resevoir tank, I'll have to get all the gunk off and try to see what's up? Hopefully it's loose not cracked


 
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elbowcarey

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Well reinstalled the control block and still waiting on parts.........Here's a pic of the bottom of the hydraulic resevoir tank, I'll have to get all the gunk off and try to see what's up? Hopefully it's loose not cracked
Emergency!!!!!!!!!!
New pump is the replacement for mine according to LPS and it is counter-clockwise rotation
But it has no markings on it for rotation and also nothing for in/out ports? I really need to know if this is the right pump and which end is up? Help please


 

Tazza

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Emergency!!!!!!!!!!
New pump is the replacement for mine according to LPS and it is counter-clockwise rotation
But it has no markings on it for rotation and also nothing for in/out ports? I really need to know if this is the right pump and which end is up? Help please
Hopefully they got you the correct pump, so rotation shouldn't be an issue. You can check this by tracing the direction the drive pump turns to ensure it will make the hydraulic pump turn correctly too.
You should be able to work out the in and out ports i believe by checking the rotation of the gears, you said counter clock wise, so rotate the shaft that way and look at the gears. Remember the oil is pressurised on the outside of the gears between them and the housing, not the inside where the gears mesh. So the direction the gears go according to the housing is the direction of the oil. Use this to work out in and out.
 
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elbowcarey

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Hopefully they got you the correct pump, so rotation shouldn't be an issue. You can check this by tracing the direction the drive pump turns to ensure it will make the hydraulic pump turn correctly too.
You should be able to work out the in and out ports i believe by checking the rotation of the gears, you said counter clock wise, so rotate the shaft that way and look at the gears. Remember the oil is pressurised on the outside of the gears between them and the housing, not the inside where the gears mesh. So the direction the gears go according to the housing is the direction of the oil. Use this to work out in and out.
Ok I checked it out like you said and here's what I've got....
First off the two ports are different sizes and checking against the old one it seems that the suction(in) is larger then the hi-pressure(out). Now on the old pump it has arrows top/bottom of the pump housing for rotation of the internal gears which do match with the oil flow as Tazza says, so I'm good with that.....But now the new pump seems different to me...
The old pump turns clockwise at the shaft end and that shaft is connected to the upper gear...
The new pumps shaft would be connected to the lower gear if installed to match the in/out ports of the original pump which would mean that it will spin the wrong way
I can't call until Monday.... What do you guys think?

 
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elbowcarey

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Ok I checked it out like you said and here's what I've got....
First off the two ports are different sizes and checking against the old one it seems that the suction(in) is larger then the hi-pressure(out). Now on the old pump it has arrows top/bottom of the pump housing for rotation of the internal gears which do match with the oil flow as Tazza says, so I'm good with that.....But now the new pump seems different to me...
The old pump turns clockwise at the shaft end and that shaft is connected to the upper gear...
The new pumps shaft would be connected to the lower gear if installed to match the in/out ports of the original pump which would mean that it will spin the wrong way
I can't call until Monday.... What do you guys think?
Did a lot of research for this and I want to share it with all in case anyone needs help with the same issue. Attached is a chart for pump rotation and a chart on the stamping on the pump flange, check it out.... In my case that's my problem - original pump is 24206-RAT (R for right hand rotation) and replacement pump is 26013LAL (L for left hand rotation)

 

Tazza

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Did a lot of research for this and I want to share it with all in case anyone needs help with the same issue. Attached is a chart for pump rotation and a chart on the stamping on the pump flange, check it out.... In my case that's my problem - original pump is 24206-RAT (R for right hand rotation) and replacement pump is 26013LAL (L for left hand rotation)
Ah, well that is less than ideal..... Hopefully they will sort you out with the rite pump with a call on monday, shame you didn't get to fit it all up on the weekend though
 
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elbowcarey

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Ah, well that is less than ideal..... Hopefully they will sort you out with the rite pump with a call on monday, shame you didn't get to fit it all up on the weekend though
Can't believe the new pump I ordered is wrong, waiting for a new one...........This is the first time doing a project like this on my B-cat and if it wasn't for this forum and the people that share their wisdom I probably would of had serious problems!!!!!! Thanks to ALL on this forum for great information you really help everyone out...........Thank you all again
 

Tazza

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Can't believe the new pump I ordered is wrong, waiting for a new one...........This is the first time doing a project like this on my B-cat and if it wasn't for this forum and the people that share their wisdom I probably would of had serious problems!!!!!! Thanks to ALL on this forum for great information you really help everyone out...........Thank you all again
Sadly it does happen. I got a geroler star for a drive motor, their supplier made a mistake and sent a larger CID one to them and they sent it on to me. The issue i had was that the machine would drive slower on one side. I could get it to dig holes, it took me ages to work out the issue. I even used a digital tacho to work out the wheel speed and it matched the geroler star size that was 20% larger.
Hopefully they get it rite this time :)
 
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elbowcarey

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Sadly it does happen. I got a geroler star for a drive motor, their supplier made a mistake and sent a larger CID one to them and they sent it on to me. The issue i had was that the machine would drive slower on one side. I could get it to dig holes, it took me ages to work out the issue. I even used a digital tacho to work out the wheel speed and it matched the geroler star size that was 20% larger.
Hopefully they get it rite this time :)
Well picked up a bunch of parts from Bobcat today and re-installed the port block......Still waiting for the hydraulic pump so I decided to start cleaning up the connection on the bottom of the hydraulic resevoir and found some more bad news....The last guy just made a mess of things because there was a broken seal, that cost me .58cents today to replace but after replacing I set it upright, plugged the hose, and filled it like half way to check before installing....Lucky me the bottom of the tank has a hairline crack thats seeping so after calling B-cat to find that a new one is over $220 bucks I'm gona try to weld, patch, fiberglass, something to it/!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You guys have any good suggestions on this one?

 

antfarmer2

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Well picked up a bunch of parts from Bobcat today and re-installed the port block......Still waiting for the hydraulic pump so I decided to start cleaning up the connection on the bottom of the hydraulic resevoir and found some more bad news....The last guy just made a mess of things because there was a broken seal, that cost me .58cents today to replace but after replacing I set it upright, plugged the hose, and filled it like half way to check before installing....Lucky me the bottom of the tank has a hairline crack thats seeping so after calling B-cat to find that a new one is over $220 bucks I'm gona try to weld, patch, fiberglass, something to it/!!!!!!!!!!!!!! You guys have any good suggestions on this one?
JB weld with fiberglass
 

Tazza

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JB weld with fiberglass
That is possibly your only choice. I'd gouge it out a little for something for the JB to stick to.
Depending on how far out the crack is, i think others have re-threaded the hole to take a larger fitting, but if the crack exceeds this, you have no real option but to glue or buy a new one
 
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elbowcarey

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That is possibly your only choice. I'd gouge it out a little for something for the JB to stick to.
Depending on how far out the crack is, i think others have re-threaded the hole to take a larger fitting, but if the crack exceeds this, you have no real option but to glue or buy a new one
She ain't pretty..........But saved me $216 if it works out

 
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elbowcarey

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She ain't pretty..........But saved me $216 if it works out
Tomorrow's the day!!!!!!!!!!!! I'll let you guy's know how it goes....... She's all back together and filled up with hydraulic fluid, just gonna let it soak overnight and fire her up in the morning...

 
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