1845C Questions

[Scavenger]

Hi, I am new here and hope I can find some answers to questions I have about my 1992 Case 1945C. The first question is about the starter. Can anyone tell me if the starter is repairable, or is a new one in order. It will not start all the time...kind of hit or miss. Sometimes when the key is turned it will just click one time, but not turn over. After turning the key on and off several times it will eventually turn over and start. Question 2: I plan on mounting a snow plow on it but I am wondering how to plumb the hydraulics to the auxiliary hydraulics. The plow hoses are 3/8" fittings. Also, the angle cylinders on the plow presently have automatic tranny fluid in them (Dexron). Will the Dexron have to be removed somehow so it does not contaminate the loader hydraulic fluid? Question 3: On the floor board (in front of the operators feet) there is a pedal with a bolt locking it to keep it from being used. Can anyone tell me what the function of this pedal is, and how to use it if needed. When I bought the loader I was told that it has very low hours on it. Would 1870 hours be considered low for a 1992 1845C. Thanks for any advice or help you can offer Scavenger

 

[LGS Enterprises]

I would think that your starter is rebuildable but in todays world with all the things coming from overseas they sometimes can sell a brand new one cheaper. I would double check and make sure your getting voltage to the solenoid. When I purchased my 1845C, it had a new starter on it, it also had the same issue, turn the key, I would hear a click but not crank. I could put 12 volts to the solenoid terminal and it would crank everytime. A new ignition switch fixed mine. The fluid that runs in a snow plow hydraulic system should be low temp hydraulic oil, often colored red or blue. I wouldn't suggest mixing it or Dextron with your 10w-30 oil running in your Case so you will need to flush it out. To get the cylinders to work correctly and be double acting I think your going to need to add a spool valve, any chance of adapting the plows original pump or valves? The pedal on the floor is for the aux hydraulics. They put the bolt in so you don't keep stepping on the pedal and running them while your bouncing around in the cab. Those hours are very low for a machine that old, does it look like a 1800 hour machine? Factory paint? No welds in the arms or tanks of the unit? When I purchase my machine, the hour meter read 1360 but the wear and tear looked like it was 4 or 5000. I knew it was a old rental unit from the local Case dealer from the stickers on it. One of the guys I work with used to be a technician over there and I asked him about it. He said that it was very common to replace the hour meters due to them not working. Hope this helps

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Any starter shop shoulodbe able to rebuild your starter for that cummins engine. Some are more reasonable then others. The local shop here fixes mine as opposed to exchanges so I know how it was repaired and what it had put in it. Sounds like yours just needs a solinoid, but if the price is right might be a good time to do brushes and bushings and drive gear too.
Check the voltage at the starter when attempting to crank,if its bellow 11.5 you could have battery or wiring problems.
Flush out the plow cylinders by shoving them in and out.
If the plow cylinders are single acting (one hose only) you want to connect one cylinder to each quick coupler. You will also need a flow restricter in the hyd hoses to the cylinders or the plow will angle uncontrollably fast.
2000 hours is low for a 2002 machine. at that age there is a pretty good chance the meter quit working and had a new one installed, but maybe not either. Those Cummins are a great engine and will run 6000 8000 hours maybe more. If the machines hours are correct I would expect vary little slop in any of the loader boom pins. Say 1/8 to 1/4" travel
Ken

 

[Scavenger]

Any starter shop shoulodbe able to rebuild your starter for that cummins engine. Some are more reasonable then others. The local shop here fixes mine as opposed to exchanges so I know how it was repaired and what it had put in it. Sounds like yours just needs a solinoid, but if the price is right might be a good time to do brushes and bushings and drive gear too.
Check the voltage at the starter when attempting to crank,if its bellow 11.5 you could have battery or wiring problems.
Flush out the plow cylinders by shoving them in and out.
If the plow cylinders are single acting (one hose only) you want to connect one cylinder to each quick coupler. You will also need a flow restricter in the hyd hoses to the cylinders or the plow will angle uncontrollably fast.
2000 hours is low for a 2002 machine. at that age there is a pretty good chance the meter quit working and had a new one installed, but maybe not either. Those Cummins are a great engine and will run 6000 8000 hours maybe more. If the machines hours are correct I would expect vary little slop in any of the loader boom pins. Say 1/8 to 1/4" travel
Ken

Test.............tried sending a reply but got an error message about something to do with a stack error????

 

[Scavenger]

Test.............tried sending a reply but got an error message about something to do with a stack error????

LGS and Ken, Thank you very much for the information. As far as the appearance of the loader, there are no weld repairs that I am aware of. The paint on the loader is still in pretty good shape. The paint on the engine leads me to believe that there has not been much if any repairs because most removable engine parts still have paint that has not been disturbed on the bolts, etc. I bought the loader from a retired construction business owner that kept it housed in a heated building at his residence, and basically used it only removing snow with the bucket. He did tell me that I should make sure I check the oil for the chain that drives the wheels. He said that this unit is a twin to the one he sold with his business, and that an employee let the chain get dry on that one and it ended up a whopping repair bill. I have not done this yet because I really need to get a repair manual to find out where to check the oil, where to add the oil, etc. Shortly after I read the reply from LGS I went out in the garage to start it up so I could back it out to start "the plow project". It would not even click. I checked the battery with my 12 volt electrical probe and it would not even light the bulb on the tester. I think setting dormant for a few months let the battery go dead and it froze. If that is the case it is really going to be a problem because I think to change the battery it requires the cage to be slid back which in turn requires the loader arms to be raised..........hmmm It won' start so I can't raise the loader arms, I can't raise them anyways because of the low ceiling in the garage, and I don't think I can pull it out of the garage because I believe the hydraulics are basically locked when it is not running....yup, I really should find a repair manual. I have a feeling this simple plow project is going to be a "get to know your machine" program. Well, it you guys have any ideas on what I can do to get it out of the garage or running with a dead battery, I would appreciate it, Also is there somewhere I could get a low cost or free repair manual or CD on this thing...........thanks again, Pat.

 

[skidsteer.ca]

LGS and Ken, Thank you very much for the information. As far as the appearance of the loader, there are no weld repairs that I am aware of. The paint on the loader is still in pretty good shape. The paint on the engine leads me to believe that there has not been much if any repairs because most removable engine parts still have paint that has not been disturbed on the bolts, etc. I bought the loader from a retired construction business owner that kept it housed in a heated building at his residence, and basically used it only removing snow with the bucket. He did tell me that I should make sure I check the oil for the chain that drives the wheels. He said that this unit is a twin to the one he sold with his business, and that an employee let the chain get dry on that one and it ended up a whopping repair bill. I have not done this yet because I really need to get a repair manual to find out where to check the oil, where to add the oil, etc. Shortly after I read the reply from LGS I went out in the garage to start it up so I could back it out to start "the plow project". It would not even click. I checked the battery with my 12 volt electrical probe and it would not even light the bulb on the tester. I think setting dormant for a few months let the battery go dead and it froze. If that is the case it is really going to be a problem because I think to change the battery it requires the cage to be slid back which in turn requires the loader arms to be raised..........hmmm It won' start so I can't raise the loader arms, I can't raise them anyways because of the low ceiling in the garage, and I don't think I can pull it out of the garage because I believe the hydraulics are basically locked when it is not running....yup, I really should find a repair manual. I have a feeling this simple plow project is going to be a "get to know your machine" program. Well, it you guys have any ideas on what I can do to get it out of the garage or running with a dead battery, I would appreciate it, Also is there somewhere I could get a low cost or free repair manual or CD on this thing...........thanks again, Pat.

Manuals
You could try a seller by the ebay name of maxxwedge.
You can't get to the starter to boost there either?
If it does'nt have one it should have a heavy power wire added and routed to a point that can be accessed any time.
My New Holland is a little tough with the arms down but it is possible.
Ken