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The Mitsubishi 4G32 and you. A comprehensive guide to surviving poor financial decisions and overhauling a terrible engine.
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<blockquote data-quote="Scott Cee" data-source="post: 133986" data-attributes="member: 23817"><p>Onto actually putting the engine together.</p><p></p><p>Bare block back and machined:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]6177[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>They decked it and bored it .030" over, along with cleaning it and putting some primer on it. I flushed all the oil galleries again to verify nothing was in them, ALWAYS do that, don't assume.</p><p></p><p>Crank in, mains torqued with assembly lube on them. The caps are numbered. I verified the crank spun freely, but not with the first set of bearings I used, I hard ordered a bunch of forklift 4G32 parts and I believe they sent me 4G33 main bearings, either way they tied up the crank and I'm glad I caught it. So, yup, always check that. Also, before torquing the mains it's good to bump the crank with a soft hammer, and bump the caps, you want to make sure they're sitting nicely:[ATTACH=full]6178[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Piston comparison, they're identical as near as we could measure and tell (expect .030 over). The machine shop pressed the pins in on the rods for me, they are press fit so be careful if you're doing it yourself. They also resized the rod ends:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]6179[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]6180[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Piston and ring boxes:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]6183[/ATTACH]</p><p>[ATTACH=full]6184[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p></p><p>Pistons in with rings. One thing that wasn't so nice was trying to get the oil control rings in. The machine shop didn't cut any sort of chamfer on the cylinders after they decked the block, I should have taken a stone to it. They went, but it was not pleasant:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]6181[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Semi-dressed head as I got it back. They had to take a bunch off of it to get it flat. We reused the valves, they were fine. Guides and seats were changed:[ATTACH=full]6182[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>Head on with cam and rockers:</p><p>[ATTACH=full]6185[/ATTACH]</p><p></p><p>I used the Fel-Pro headgasket as it was better than the other one. I also started putting the front cover, oil filter housing, and crank pulley on. Not much to say about this stuff other than sorting through gaskets and I put Permatex copper gasket dressing on all of them. The design is marginal, I torqued all the bolts for this stuff with a torque wrench and used locktite on them, some of the bolts were missing when I had taken it apart. The oil filter housing also leaked on the first start and I wound up gaunching the bolts to get it to stop, not great.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Scott Cee, post: 133986, member: 23817"] Onto actually putting the engine together. Bare block back and machined: [ATTACH type="full"]6177[/ATTACH] They decked it and bored it .030" over, along with cleaning it and putting some primer on it. I flushed all the oil galleries again to verify nothing was in them, ALWAYS do that, don't assume. Crank in, mains torqued with assembly lube on them. The caps are numbered. I verified the crank spun freely, but not with the first set of bearings I used, I hard ordered a bunch of forklift 4G32 parts and I believe they sent me 4G33 main bearings, either way they tied up the crank and I'm glad I caught it. So, yup, always check that. Also, before torquing the mains it's good to bump the crank with a soft hammer, and bump the caps, you want to make sure they're sitting nicely:[ATTACH type="full"]6178[/ATTACH] Piston comparison, they're identical as near as we could measure and tell (expect .030 over). The machine shop pressed the pins in on the rods for me, they are press fit so be careful if you're doing it yourself. They also resized the rod ends: [ATTACH type="full"]6179[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]6180[/ATTACH] Piston and ring boxes: [ATTACH type="full"]6183[/ATTACH] [ATTACH type="full"]6184[/ATTACH] Pistons in with rings. One thing that wasn't so nice was trying to get the oil control rings in. The machine shop didn't cut any sort of chamfer on the cylinders after they decked the block, I should have taken a stone to it. They went, but it was not pleasant: [ATTACH type="full"]6181[/ATTACH] Semi-dressed head as I got it back. They had to take a bunch off of it to get it flat. We reused the valves, they were fine. Guides and seats were changed:[ATTACH type="full"]6182[/ATTACH] Head on with cam and rockers: [ATTACH type="full"]6185[/ATTACH] I used the Fel-Pro headgasket as it was better than the other one. I also started putting the front cover, oil filter housing, and crank pulley on. Not much to say about this stuff other than sorting through gaskets and I put Permatex copper gasket dressing on all of them. The design is marginal, I torqued all the bolts for this stuff with a torque wrench and used locktite on them, some of the bolts were missing when I had taken it apart. The oil filter housing also leaked on the first start and I wound up gaunching the bolts to get it to stop, not great. [/QUOTE]
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The Mitsubishi 4G32 and you. A comprehensive guide to surviving poor financial decisions and overhauling a terrible engine.
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