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General Bobcat Skidsteer Forum
T 250 No lift or tilt No codes lift and tilt valve light out
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<blockquote data-quote="Homer Allman" data-source="post: 112063" data-attributes="member: 18656"><p>As the title says I have no tilt or lift on my Bobcat T 250 525611600 ACS. My sticks and locked side to side, but the tracks still work. Here's where it started and here's where I am at, now. I had a lift actuator code, so I replaced the lift actuator. The code went away, I did a manual calibration on the sticks. It worked a few minutes and I got a tilt actuator code. I took it back apart and checked the actuator, it was fine. Both actuators are the new style with the correct aluminum blocks. The machine worked fine for 30 minutes. I then get a 32-66 code, voltage out of range. So I have the battery checked, it's good. I checked the alternator and it's blasting out 15.7 volts. I replaced the alternator and get the voltage correct. I'm still getting the 32-66 code. I find a crack in my positive battery cable. I replace it with an OEM. That code goes away. So now I have no codes and the tilt and lift do not work. The lift and tilt valve light is out. I took the two-piece cast control valve out to check the spools and everything seems fine to me. The springs all looked good and all the O rings and seals seem to be doing their job I am in the process of doing a complete seal job and replace all the springs. Just waiting on the parts. I checked the three solenoids and stems, the screens where clean and they functioned as the manual says. I really do not see this as the miracle cure but at least I will have a sold control valve. While I am waiting on the parts I check out the brake valve. I check the solenoid first and it reads 10.3 ohms close to the range of 7-10 ohms in the manual. I pull the valve stem and find the plastic bushings on the outside of the oil rings are all broken. It also looks like someone had been in there with a pair of vice grips on the stem. Not good, I'm guessing. I have run the machine for almost 700 hours with the part installed, so the vice grip damage has been there and caused no issues. However since the bushings are broken I know they need to be replaced. How do I get the valve stem a part? Is the vice grip method the only way? The bushings seem to be solid and not something I can just slide over the stem. This valve it very costly, so I would like to reseal if possible. I tested the stem with the solenoid with a 12 volt battery and it work fine until the solenoid just stopped working and the went to zero OHMS. So either I burned out the solenoid or it was on it's way out. It's not as costly at least. So to sum it all up can the brake valve issues I described above cause my sticks to lock out on the lift and tilt. If not where should I go to next if the control valve and brake valve rebuild do not fix the problem, Thanks for your time and patience on this long read. I certainly appreciate any and all advice.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Homer Allman, post: 112063, member: 18656"] As the title says I have no tilt or lift on my Bobcat T 250 525611600 ACS. My sticks and locked side to side, but the tracks still work. Here's where it started and here's where I am at, now. I had a lift actuator code, so I replaced the lift actuator. The code went away, I did a manual calibration on the sticks. It worked a few minutes and I got a tilt actuator code. I took it back apart and checked the actuator, it was fine. Both actuators are the new style with the correct aluminum blocks. The machine worked fine for 30 minutes. I then get a 32-66 code, voltage out of range. So I have the battery checked, it's good. I checked the alternator and it's blasting out 15.7 volts. I replaced the alternator and get the voltage correct. I'm still getting the 32-66 code. I find a crack in my positive battery cable. I replace it with an OEM. That code goes away. So now I have no codes and the tilt and lift do not work. The lift and tilt valve light is out. I took the two-piece cast control valve out to check the spools and everything seems fine to me. The springs all looked good and all the O rings and seals seem to be doing their job I am in the process of doing a complete seal job and replace all the springs. Just waiting on the parts. I checked the three solenoids and stems, the screens where clean and they functioned as the manual says. I really do not see this as the miracle cure but at least I will have a sold control valve. While I am waiting on the parts I check out the brake valve. I check the solenoid first and it reads 10.3 ohms close to the range of 7-10 ohms in the manual. I pull the valve stem and find the plastic bushings on the outside of the oil rings are all broken. It also looks like someone had been in there with a pair of vice grips on the stem. Not good, I'm guessing. I have run the machine for almost 700 hours with the part installed, so the vice grip damage has been there and caused no issues. However since the bushings are broken I know they need to be replaced. How do I get the valve stem a part? Is the vice grip method the only way? The bushings seem to be solid and not something I can just slide over the stem. This valve it very costly, so I would like to reseal if possible. I tested the stem with the solenoid with a 12 volt battery and it work fine until the solenoid just stopped working and the went to zero OHMS. So either I burned out the solenoid or it was on it's way out. It's not as costly at least. So to sum it all up can the brake valve issues I described above cause my sticks to lock out on the lift and tilt. If not where should I go to next if the control valve and brake valve rebuild do not fix the problem, Thanks for your time and patience on this long read. I certainly appreciate any and all advice. [/QUOTE]
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T 250 No lift or tilt No codes lift and tilt valve light out
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