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General Skidsteer & Technical Topics
Construction & Landscaping
Soil conditioner Vs. Rototiller
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<blockquote data-quote="500K_773" data-source="post: 349" data-attributes="member: 33"><p>I finally tried a rototiller attachment last week. I rented a 52" tiller to till a old hayfield and a dead section of lawn. The tiller worked well in the old lawn section, but did leave some larger 6" x 6" chunks of sod. I ran over the section again, but was not able to chew them up any smaller. The remaining soil looked like good topsoil (with some sod chunks) that would have been wasted if I removed it with my bucket. It might have also been a good idea to spread some fertilizer prior to rototilling. Speed while rototilling was slow, but I was still able to rototill a 1000 square foot area in about an hour.</p><p>The old hayfield was a little more difficult since it had not been mowed or raked in quite a few years. The sod/root bed was pretty thick and more difficult to till. I actually stalled the tiller quite a few times, but could quickly clear the jam by lifting the loader arms and reversing the tiller direction. There were some areas that had roots remaining from brush I had cut with a BrushCat last year. These roots would wrap around the tiller shaft and tines, but wouldn't cause a stall. I could clear the roots by raising the tiller and quickly cycling the direction of the tiller until everything fell out. The only material I had to manually remove was a section of barbed wire that wrapped around the tiller shaft.</p><p>The price of a new tiller is about $4,300, but I was able to rent it for $100 a day. I was able to till everything I needed in one day, so I don't think I can justify buying one at this time. I am hoping to get the dealer to let me demo the soil conditioner. I think it would be able to pulverize the remaining sod clumps and level the area for seeding without having to bring in any topsoil. The soil conditioner may have very well been able to work this area without rototilling, but the hayfield would have been too much, in my opinion.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="500K_773, post: 349, member: 33"] I finally tried a rototiller attachment last week. I rented a 52” tiller to till a old hayfield and a dead section of lawn. The tiller worked well in the old lawn section, but did leave some larger 6” x 6” chunks of sod. I ran over the section again, but was not able to chew them up any smaller. The remaining soil looked like good topsoil (with some sod chunks) that would have been wasted if I removed it with my bucket. It might have also been a good idea to spread some fertilizer prior to rototilling. Speed while rototilling was slow, but I was still able to rototill a 1000 square foot area in about an hour. The old hayfield was a little more difficult since it had not been mowed or raked in quite a few years. The sod/root bed was pretty thick and more difficult to till. I actually stalled the tiller quite a few times, but could quickly clear the jam by lifting the loader arms and reversing the tiller direction. There were some areas that had roots remaining from brush I had cut with a BrushCat last year. These roots would wrap around the tiller shaft and tines, but wouldn't cause a stall. I could clear the roots by raising the tiller and quickly cycling the direction of the tiller until everything fell out. The only material I had to manually remove was a section of barbed wire that wrapped around the tiller shaft. The price of a new tiller is about $4,300, but I was able to rent it for $100 a day. I was able to till everything I needed in one day, so I don't think I can justify buying one at this time. I am hoping to get the dealer to let me demo the soil conditioner. I think it would be able to pulverize the remaining sod clumps and level the area for seeding without having to bring in any topsoil. The soil conditioner may have very well been able to work this area without rototilling, but the hayfield would have been too much, in my opinion. [/QUOTE]
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Soil conditioner Vs. Rototiller
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