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Message: <blockquote data-quote="Handsaver-Engineer" data-source="post: 114693" data-attributes="member: 19868"><p>It's very simple and I think that is why mechanics like it. It's small enough to fit easily in your toolbox or use the magnets to affix it to the side of your toolcoest. As far as the holding force, it's over 100 lbs on a thick steel surface due to the magnets I chose and all it needs to do is hold the carriage bolt in place so that the bolt won't spin when being loosened. That being said, I don't recommend my tool for every bolt. If the bolt is severely rusted, then using a torch is better. I would estimate it could be use 80-90% of the time. The real benefit is the safety -you can avoid the heat from the torch or friction, avoid the cutting injury when the bolt is in place, and you are less likely to pinch yourself or your clothes between the bucket and the blade when tightening a new carriage bolt assembly since it is hands free. I also found that you want to size your bolt so that the nut just covers all the threads. You don't want a bunch of threads sticking through the nut. These threads wear and make the nut very hard to remove. This is usually why mechanics have to use a torch! When the threads are worn (which they tend to do when your bucket is used with abrasive materials like concrete, rocks, etc.) they are much harder to remove. I recommend using a lock washer between the bucket and the nut if that helps prevent the bolt threads from being too long. (A flange nut versus a regular nut can also be useful since their height can help you control the thread exposure too!) I sent a sample to Geoffrey and we can send it to you if you'd like to try it out?</p></blockquote><p></p>

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