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Minimum trailer for tiny skidsteer
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<blockquote data-quote="SkidRoe" data-source="post: 93367" data-attributes="member: 3290"><p>If I could build on mmsllc's list, I would add wiring. I don't know how many trailers that I have seen over the years where the wiring is an absolute hack job. The biggest enemy to your trailer's wiring is moisture. Keep your splice connections to a minimum, and the ones that you do have to make, solder and heat shrink tubing are your friends. If you have to use electrical tape, always put a zip tie around the end of the tape; this will keep it from beginning to unravel, which lets moisture in.</p><p>I went the extra mile when I wired my trailer. I started with a 100' heavy duty rubberized extension cord, which I cut up for wire. This gave me up to 3 wires at each termination. I ran a completely separate run of cord to each light and brake (with dedicated grounds if required), connecting them all back to a central weather proof junction box, the type used for outdoor industrial wiring. These also use fully sealed strain reliefs. Two of these boxes are used: one at the front, which is where the main connector originates from, and one at the rear for the tail and marker lights. </p><p>All grounds are made through stainless steel threaded bosses welded to the trailer frame to eliminated corrosion. All wiring is anchored to the frame at 8" intervals, using dedicated zip tie loops.</p><p>For lights, I have used all fully sealed LED units, and provided protection from impacts where ever possible.</p><p>I wired this back in 2000, and other than replacing the odd damaged light and the trailer connector once, I have not had any other trouble with it.</p><p>HTH - SR</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="SkidRoe, post: 93367, member: 3290"] If I could build on mmsllc's list, I would add wiring. I don't know how many trailers that I have seen over the years where the wiring is an absolute hack job. The biggest enemy to your trailer's wiring is moisture. Keep your splice connections to a minimum, and the ones that you do have to make, solder and heat shrink tubing are your friends. If you have to use electrical tape, always put a zip tie around the end of the tape; this will keep it from beginning to unravel, which lets moisture in. I went the extra mile when I wired my trailer. I started with a 100' heavy duty rubberized extension cord, which I cut up for wire. This gave me up to 3 wires at each termination. I ran a completely separate run of cord to each light and brake (with dedicated grounds if required), connecting them all back to a central weather proof junction box, the type used for outdoor industrial wiring. These also use fully sealed strain reliefs. Two of these boxes are used: one at the front, which is where the main connector originates from, and one at the rear for the tail and marker lights. All grounds are made through stainless steel threaded bosses welded to the trailer frame to eliminated corrosion. All wiring is anchored to the frame at 8” intervals, using dedicated zip tie loops. For lights, I have used all fully sealed LED units, and provided protection from impacts where ever possible. I wired this back in 2000, and other than replacing the odd damaged light and the trailer connector once, I have not had any other trouble with it. HTH - SR [/QUOTE]
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Minimum trailer for tiny skidsteer
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