L225 1975 New Holland skid steer

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deaop06

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May 5, 2013
Messages
176
Hello, I am new here and could use some help. I bought a NH steer. I thing it is a 1975. It has the 4cyl Winconsin gas engine. It is small and what I needed for around our Deer farm. Rebuilt a bucket tilt cyl. already. It needed a belt for the alternator. It is on order. I will need some parts and am looking for a place to get a parts manuel. This manuel tells you how to fix the machine and shows the parts. It was used by the shop to repair these machines, I think. If anyone has a source I would be grateful for the phone# or email address or web address. This looks like a nice forum. Thank for any help. Ron
 

deaop06

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Joined
May 5, 2013
Messages
176
Well I aquired an operator's manual today and my steer is a 1975-77 model. The manual tells how to make all adjustments to the machine and all about the electrical stuff. Still can't find a parts manual but will keep looking. Our local NH dealer can get most of the parts I would need but the price is high. I still would not know how th fix anything that goes wrong. Hoping some one out there can help me out. Thanks Ron
 

deaop06

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Joined
May 5, 2013
Messages
176
Well I aquired an operator's manual today and my steer is a 1975-77 model. The manual tells how to make all adjustments to the machine and all about the electrical stuff. Still can't find a parts manual but will keep looking. Our local NH dealer can get most of the parts I would need but the price is high. I still would not know how th fix anything that goes wrong. Hoping some one out there can help me out. Thanks Ron
Ok, I got a engine manual today. My bad because the Wisconsin TJD engine is a 2 cyl and not a 4 cyl. It developes 18 hp at 2000 rpm's. I should have checked. Dumb. Engine runs great and no smoke. Will lift around 700lbs. I am stripping all the old wires that don't go anywhere. Taking off all the lights and trying to get the gauges to work. I will try to get new filters and need to adjust the sticks as it creeps forward a little. Need to get this machine ready for work . It is still too wet around here to go many places and rain is to be here next couple of days. We had one fawn and expect about 12-14 more by end of month. Hope 8 are bucks. Ron
 

deaop06

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Joined
May 5, 2013
Messages
176
Ok, I got a engine manual today. My bad because the Wisconsin TJD engine is a 2 cyl and not a 4 cyl. It developes 18 hp at 2000 rpm's. I should have checked. Dumb. Engine runs great and no smoke. Will lift around 700lbs. I am stripping all the old wires that don't go anywhere. Taking off all the lights and trying to get the gauges to work. I will try to get new filters and need to adjust the sticks as it creeps forward a little. Need to get this machine ready for work . It is still too wet around here to go many places and rain is to be here next couple of days. We had one fawn and expect about 12-14 more by end of month. Hope 8 are bucks. Ron
Just a update. I have all the manuals now so am able to fix this machine. It has two shock type dampers (like shock absorbers) and one has a bad spring. That is partly the cause of the creep. It is on the left lever and does not force that lever in to netural. All I have to do is find the right spring. Then I will adjust the drives for creep and check the chain drives for slop. Everything seems to work well and have used it some. It will get into some tight places. It has rained so much here that care must be taken so as not get stuck in all the mud holes. All told I have about $80 bucks in manuals and many hours finding them. Part # are revised 3-4 times but so far have got the right parts and filters. Ron
 

Tazza

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Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,697
Just a update. I have all the manuals now so am able to fix this machine. It has two shock type dampers (like shock absorbers) and one has a bad spring. That is partly the cause of the creep. It is on the left lever and does not force that lever in to netural. All I have to do is find the right spring. Then I will adjust the drives for creep and check the chain drives for slop. Everything seems to work well and have used it some. It will get into some tight places. It has rained so much here that care must be taken so as not get stuck in all the mud holes. All told I have about $80 bucks in manuals and many hours finding them. Part # are revised 3-4 times but so far have got the right parts and filters. Ron
Only $80 in manuals? that sounds pretty decent. One from Bobcat is around 120 or so...
I hope the repairs go well.
 

grandy129

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Joined
Aug 20, 2014
Messages
1
Just a update. I have all the manuals now so am able to fix this machine. It has two shock type dampers (like shock absorbers) and one has a bad spring. That is partly the cause of the creep. It is on the left lever and does not force that lever in to netural. All I have to do is find the right spring. Then I will adjust the drives for creep and check the chain drives for slop. Everything seems to work well and have used it some. It will get into some tight places. It has rained so much here that care must be taken so as not get stuck in all the mud holes. All told I have about $80 bucks in manuals and many hours finding them. Part # are revised 3-4 times but so far have got the right parts and filters. Ron
Hi deaop06, I also have a 1975-1977 era L225. It was running when I bought it about 6 years ago, I could drive it at that time and tilt the bucket, but not lift the boom. The battery went bad shortly afterward, and it has been sitting out back rotting away ever since. I decided to start working on it again about a week ago. Right now I have the boom cylinders disconnected and I'm jacking and shoring up the boom so I can work on it. First of all, I wanted to see if you are still on this group and do you still have the L225? Secondly, does your machine have the boom locking plates the come out the sides of the cab? Mine does not. Does not look like the parts are still available. I plan to attempt to fabricate the plates from some 1/2" steel plate or angle iron once I get the boom secured. I would love to hear from you and converse if you still have the machine and are interested in comparing notes. BTW - I have all the docs and I live in North Texas near Denton. grandy129
 

deaop06

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Joined
May 5, 2013
Messages
176
Hi deaop06, I also have a 1975-1977 era L225. It was running when I bought it about 6 years ago, I could drive it at that time and tilt the bucket, but not lift the boom. The battery went bad shortly afterward, and it has been sitting out back rotting away ever since. I decided to start working on it again about a week ago. Right now I have the boom cylinders disconnected and I'm jacking and shoring up the boom so I can work on it. First of all, I wanted to see if you are still on this group and do you still have the L225? Secondly, does your machine have the boom locking plates the come out the sides of the cab? Mine does not. Does not look like the parts are still available. I plan to attempt to fabricate the plates from some 1/2" steel plate or angle iron once I get the boom secured. I would love to hear from you and converse if you still have the machine and are interested in comparing notes. BTW - I have all the docs and I live in North Texas near Denton. grandy129
grandy129, Sorry I didn,t get back to you sooner. Yes my machine has the boom blocks. Lever is on your left side. My plates are 3/8" flat steel on edge. One on each side. they are controled by rods from the lever. I think the parts manuel will show them. I will look and get back to you. I have mine running pretty good. Had to fix the right rear wheel seal. What a job. The seal had cut a grove in the axle. I turned the axle down 1/4" and pressed a home made ring on it then put the new seal on. Have around 50hrs and no leaks from the seal. The left brake came loose and broke the drive chain. That was a bad job. No room to work. I don't have a brake on that side now but never used them anyway. You may have your boom fixed by now but the key has to be turned back one click after you start it or the boom will not work. I forget once in a while. The bucket will tilt all the time. Have fun deaop06
 

deaop06

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Joined
May 5, 2013
Messages
176
grandy129, Sorry I didn,t get back to you sooner. Yes my machine has the boom blocks. Lever is on your left side. My plates are 3/8" flat steel on edge. One on each side. they are controled by rods from the lever. I think the parts manuel will show them. I will look and get back to you. I have mine running pretty good. Had to fix the right rear wheel seal. What a job. The seal had cut a grove in the axle. I turned the axle down 1/4" and pressed a home made ring on it then put the new seal on. Have around 50hrs and no leaks from the seal. The left brake came loose and broke the drive chain. That was a bad job. No room to work. I don't have a brake on that side now but never used them anyway. You may have your boom fixed by now but the key has to be turned back one click after you start it or the boom will not work. I forget once in a while. The bucket will tilt all the time. Have fun deaop06
grandy129, I have a "service parts catalog", issue 2-78, Sperry-New Holland. I got it from surplusmanuals.com. On page 18 it shows all the parts for the boom lock. If you are still around hope this will help you. deaop06
 

fab4fab4

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Joined
Sep 11, 2015
Messages
1
Hi, I'm new here after searching the internet for an answer to my problem. I've got a mid 70's Sperry New Holland skid steer as well. I was working it kind of hard and the left bucket cylinder sprung a leak. The manuals seem pretty straight forward on how to rebuild the cylinder but I can't for the life of me figure out how to disconnect the cylinder from the body of the skid steer. I have the bucket end of the cylinder and the hydraulic lines disconnected. This is embarrasing. Help!
 

Mike10

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Joined
Apr 22, 2011
Messages
1,077
Hi, I'm new here after searching the internet for an answer to my problem. I've got a mid 70's Sperry New Holland skid steer as well. I was working it kind of hard and the left bucket cylinder sprung a leak. The manuals seem pretty straight forward on how to rebuild the cylinder but I can't for the life of me figure out how to disconnect the cylinder from the body of the skid steer. I have the bucket end of the cylinder and the hydraulic lines disconnected. This is embarrasing. Help!
If I remember right, the pin has a washer welded to it. The pin is held in with one bolt. You can try an drive a chisel between the washer on the pin and the loader arm to get it moving.
 

papa1967

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Joined
Aug 16, 2022
Messages
2
I need replacements for my Dampers on my 1975-77 skid steer but am having a very hard time finding them anyone know a good place to call or look?
 

elmouca

Active member
Joined
Oct 17, 2020
Messages
25
I used after market dampers for a zero-turn mower. Guden p/n SCD12-H. I hope this helps you.
 

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