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Changing a wiring harness
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<blockquote data-quote="Shanmar" data-source="post: 142086" data-attributes="member: 21969"><p>The cab can roll forward. Booms up on locks, remove bolts at rear bottom of cab pillars and it can roll forward by pivoting on the front bolts. Will take something to roll it with. I've done it with another loader. You'll need 3-4 ft of blocks for the boom to rest on as it won't go all the way to the ground. Check if there are 1 or 2 bolts in the front pillars. If 2 remove the 1 logical one. The electric harnesses are designed to allow the roll. But I believe if it has heat/ac you'll have to deal with them. To raise the booms you can screw the lock out solenoids out of the valve block under shield between your feet or hot wire 12 volts to the one for the boom lift. </p><p>That said, I'm not sure you need to roll the cab to get to the harness. You will end up removing an awful lot of the interior. But I would get the boom up and parked somewhere in case you need to roll the cab. </p><p>I'd look closely at all wires you can see first including all the ones running around under the seat. Then start at one end of the main harness and start digging & checking as you go. I'd bet eventually you'll find something. Have to look closely. I'd also look closely at the fuse blocks and relay connectors. I had plenty of fights with corrosion in them.</p><p>Reading your post again, I'd start with taking a real hard look at the wires running to/from the seat safety and seat belt switches. </p><p>Don't think you can go wrong. The running engine alone is probably worth $3-4k.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="Shanmar, post: 142086, member: 21969"] The cab can roll forward. Booms up on locks, remove bolts at rear bottom of cab pillars and it can roll forward by pivoting on the front bolts. Will take something to roll it with. I've done it with another loader. You'll need 3-4 ft of blocks for the boom to rest on as it won't go all the way to the ground. Check if there are 1 or 2 bolts in the front pillars. If 2 remove the 1 logical one. The electric harnesses are designed to allow the roll. But I believe if it has heat/ac you'll have to deal with them. To raise the booms you can screw the lock out solenoids out of the valve block under shield between your feet or hot wire 12 volts to the one for the boom lift. That said, I'm not sure you need to roll the cab to get to the harness. You will end up removing an awful lot of the interior. But I would get the boom up and parked somewhere in case you need to roll the cab. I'd look closely at all wires you can see first including all the ones running around under the seat. Then start at one end of the main harness and start digging & checking as you go. I'd bet eventually you'll find something. Have to look closely. I'd also look closely at the fuse blocks and relay connectors. I had plenty of fights with corrosion in them. Reading your post again, I'd start with taking a real hard look at the wires running to/from the seat safety and seat belt switches. Don't think you can go wrong. The running engine alone is probably worth $3-4k. [/QUOTE]
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Changing a wiring harness
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