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Bobcat 630 Reclamation
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<blockquote data-quote="peebeeaitch" data-source="post: 62635" data-attributes="member: 8318"><p><u>6 Jan 2013</u></p><p>Right, so failing to find a wrench for removal of the motor nuts, I made one at work. An hour after starting the job, the wrench was still marginally beautiful, but non-functional. So I made it functional.</p><p>Beautiful wrench:</p><p><img src="http://bobcat.thesouthpole.co.za/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-01-06_Wrench.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>Functional wrench:</p><p><img src="http://bobcat.thesouthpole.co.za/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-01-06_Wrench2.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>Please also note that I decided to take no chances, or prisoners. The lower piece of equipment is my lever bar. Total length = 1.5 metres.</p><p>After undoing one nut, I managed to remove the brake disk. The manual is not joking when it says that there may not be enough space to remove both disks. So, after re-tightening the loosened nut, I managed to remove the other brake disk.</p><p>Now to split the chain.</p><p>Beautiful chain splitter:</p><p><img src="http://bobcat.thesouthpole.co.za/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-01-06_ChainSplitter.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>Functional chain splitter:</p><p><img src="http://bobcat.thesouthpole.co.za/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-01-06_ChainSplitter2.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>Out came the chains. Now for the motors.</p><p>I had previously purchased (in a moment of supreme frustration), a complete set of (expensive) Torx bits (E very small to E very large). So, armed with these, I removed the top bolts of both motors. They say over-confidence is the feeling just before disastrous failure, so I clearly was over confident. The Torx bit would just not fit over the remaining 3 bolts on both motors. Honestly, why is it always the most easily reached bolt that is the easiest to remove?</p><p>I discovered the problem. It is a fact that a 14mm socket will, in fact, fit over a E20 bolt. It will also, almost invisibly, round the splines ever so slightly so that future attempts to fit an E20 will never work again.</p><p>The control valve that Tazza suggested I remove as well, was attached to the push-rods with this:</p><p><img src="http://bobcat.thesouthpole.co.za/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-01-06_ControlLinkage.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>(Sorry for the bad photo). The connection is a master link from a chain. Is this correct? If it is, I will definately be improving on it; if not, it's just more of the same.</p><p>Half way to beer time:</p><p><img src="http://bobcat.thesouthpole.co.za/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-01-06_Progress.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>(Thanks Tazza for the suggestion of removing the control block)</p><p>Please note that I have not, and did not, remove the sprockets as I did not have a press (more later).</p><p>I decided that the right motor was probably the one to strip as it was apparently OK. Better to have a visual reference for a "good" item. After a while I got to this:</p><p><img src="http://bobcat.thesouthpole.co.za/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-01-06_ScoreLines.jpg" alt="" class="fr-fic fr-dii fr-draggable " style="" /></p><p>This is the bearing housing of the motor. That 7 sided mark is the reason for the photo and I assumed more questioning from the forum was necessary.</p><p>Anyway, before the questions, I discovered another problem. A special tool is required to split the bearing housing from the front plate, the "MEL–1187 – 5/16'' Special Socket". Proud to be the owner of the previously mentioned external Torx set, I assumed that there was at least one socket that would do the job. Sadly the assumption is wrong. I eventually came to the conclusion that I should turn down the collar of the E10 socket so it would clear the flange. eBay time for a cheap 2nd hand socket.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="peebeeaitch, post: 62635, member: 8318"] [U]6 Jan 2013[/U] Right, so failing to find a wrench for removal of the motor nuts, I made one at work. An hour after starting the job, the wrench was still marginally beautiful, but non-functional. So I made it functional. Beautiful wrench: [IMG]http://bobcat.thesouthpole.co.za/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-01-06_Wrench.jpg[/IMG] Functional wrench: [IMG]http://bobcat.thesouthpole.co.za/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-01-06_Wrench2.jpg[/IMG] Please also note that I decided to take no chances, or prisoners. The lower piece of equipment is my lever bar. Total length = 1.5 metres. After undoing one nut, I managed to remove the brake disk. The manual is not joking when it says that there may not be enough space to remove both disks. So, after re-tightening the loosened nut, I managed to remove the other brake disk. Now to split the chain. Beautiful chain splitter: [IMG]http://bobcat.thesouthpole.co.za/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-01-06_ChainSplitter.jpg[/IMG] Functional chain splitter: [IMG]http://bobcat.thesouthpole.co.za/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-01-06_ChainSplitter2.jpg[/IMG] Out came the chains. Now for the motors. I had previously purchased (in a moment of supreme frustration), a complete set of (expensive) Torx bits (E very small to E very large). So, armed with these, I removed the top bolts of both motors. They say over-confidence is the feeling just before disastrous failure, so I clearly was over confident. The Torx bit would just not fit over the remaining 3 bolts on both motors. Honestly, why is it always the most easily reached bolt that is the easiest to remove? I discovered the problem. It is a fact that a 14mm socket will, in fact, fit over a E20 bolt. It will also, almost invisibly, round the splines ever so slightly so that future attempts to fit an E20 will never work again. The control valve that Tazza suggested I remove as well, was attached to the push-rods with this: [IMG]http://bobcat.thesouthpole.co.za/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-01-06_ControlLinkage.jpg[/IMG] (Sorry for the bad photo). The connection is a master link from a chain. Is this correct? If it is, I will definately be improving on it; if not, it's just more of the same. Half way to beer time: [IMG]http://bobcat.thesouthpole.co.za/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-01-06_Progress.jpg[/IMG] (Thanks Tazza for the suggestion of removing the control block) Please note that I have not, and did not, remove the sprockets as I did not have a press (more later). I decided that the right motor was probably the one to strip as it was apparently OK. Better to have a visual reference for a “good” item. After a while I got to this: [IMG]http://bobcat.thesouthpole.co.za/BloodSweatAndTears/2013-01-06_ScoreLines.jpg[/IMG] This is the bearing housing of the motor. That 7 sided mark is the reason for the photo and I assumed more questioning from the forum was necessary. Anyway, before the questions, I discovered another problem. A special tool is required to split the bearing housing from the front plate, the “MEL–1187 – 5/16’’ Special Socket”. Proud to be the owner of the previously mentioned external Torx set, I assumed that there was at least one socket that would do the job. Sadly the assumption is wrong. I eventually came to the conclusion that I should turn down the collar of the E10 socket so it would clear the flange. eBay time for a cheap 2nd hand socket. [/QUOTE]
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