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2010 262c wont turn over
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<blockquote data-quote="drftndakota" data-source="post: 109921" data-attributes="member: 18368"><p>Hey, Long time lurker reading up on skid steers etc. Appreciate the help, I've gotten myself in a bit of a bind. Have a 2010 262c that has been great for a few years around 2200 hours. It has recently developed a electrical problem I've been attempting to diagnose. Basically it started out one day it snowed 8", hopped in to go push some snow and it was completely dead no lights no nothing. After buying a new battery and having the same problem I started the diagnosing "with minimal success". So i just started cleaning up all the major positive wires/grounds underneath the cab/engine bay of any corrosion. After cleaning up all the large connections I've got a control panel back. However with just the key in the on position it's dropping the brand new battery down to 8v's from ~12.8v which isn't enough to run the horn let alone the starter. If i hit the horn while in this condition the control panel will go completely blank. Let go it comes back. With the key in the off position the horn is loud and proud. It does the same thing with all the accessories So I started digging deeper into some of the smaller connections on the fuse panel. I've found a lot more corrosion there but had zero positive change after cleaning things up. In that process one of the studs on the back of the fuse panel where there is what i think is multiple ground connections attached to the lower left corner of the fuse panel. Does anyone know of a good way to replace that stud? Is that a ground buss for the relays? Do i need the whole panel? Also any ideas on why we'd be dropping that kind of voltage with the key only in the on position? It has been an extremely cold and frustrating process thus far, so any helpful hints are going to be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time.</p></blockquote><p></p>
[QUOTE="drftndakota, post: 109921, member: 18368"] Hey, Long time lurker reading up on skid steers etc. Appreciate the help, I've gotten myself in a bit of a bind. Have a 2010 262c that has been great for a few years around 2200 hours. It has recently developed a electrical problem I've been attempting to diagnose. Basically it started out one day it snowed 8", hopped in to go push some snow and it was completely dead no lights no nothing. After buying a new battery and having the same problem I started the diagnosing "with minimal success". So i just started cleaning up all the major positive wires/grounds underneath the cab/engine bay of any corrosion. After cleaning up all the large connections I've got a control panel back. However with just the key in the on position it's dropping the brand new battery down to 8v's from ~12.8v which isn't enough to run the horn let alone the starter. If i hit the horn while in this condition the control panel will go completely blank. Let go it comes back. With the key in the off position the horn is loud and proud. It does the same thing with all the accessories So I started digging deeper into some of the smaller connections on the fuse panel. I've found a lot more corrosion there but had zero positive change after cleaning things up. In that process one of the studs on the back of the fuse panel where there is what i think is multiple ground connections attached to the lower left corner of the fuse panel. Does anyone know of a good way to replace that stud? Is that a ground buss for the relays? Do i need the whole panel? Also any ideas on why we'd be dropping that kind of voltage with the key only in the on position? It has been an extremely cold and frustrating process thus far, so any helpful hints are going to be greatly appreciated. Thank you for your time. [/QUOTE]
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2010 262c wont turn over
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