Please instruct how to isolate the EGR/intercooler so radiater can be pressured to check for head gasket/ block problem?
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Help Support SkidSteer Forum:
A blocking plate or plug over the EGR port?Yesterday tried to bypass the EGR/cooler and was unsucessful. I did connect the two hoses coming from downward the engine block on the side. I then filled the rediater with water and
tried to pressure the system. The problem I ran into was water from the radiater exited the EGR/cooler where one of the hoses had been taken off . This did not happen where the other hose had been taken off. Long story short, I dont know how to route the hoses to isolate the EGR/intercooler so that pressure can be applied to the radiater to check for a head gasket or worse problem below?
Thank you in advance! I am totally cluless about this part of a engine. I understand that removing the EGR/cooler and installing ablocking plate would shurely make it to where the radiater could be pressurized thus checking for head gasket or below problem. I must ask though, If i were to plug the two remaining places where the hoses came off the EGR/Cooler would I be able to pressurize then?A blocking plate or plug over the EGR port?
I don't know your machine but am going by procedures I have tried in the past to test other enginesThank you in advance! I am totally cluless about this part of a engine. I understand that removing the EGR/cooler and installing ablocking plate would shurely make it to where the radiater could be pressurized thus checking for head gasket or below problem. I must ask though, If i were to plug the two remaining places where the hoses came off the EGR/Cooler would I be able to pressurize then?
ByggareBobby
Member
- Joined
- Jan 3, 2024
- Messages
- 13
Would it be possible to do an ordinary preassure test on each cylinder? I know some skids are quite compact and it might be hard to fit the probes but a preassure test will give you a good indivation if the top, the head gasket, pistons and their rings are okay. I regret now knowing about this quite simple procedure before buying a used Takuechi TB125 mini excavator that I later had to rip out the the whole engine and refurbish it. You live and learn ;-) Wishing you the best of luck!
Thank you, Granted the ordinary pressure test would work but because of the compactness of a skid steer I was trying to avoid that. If I isolated the EGR/Cooler by connecting two hoses together and then plugged to ports they came off of then should I Not be able to pressuize the radiater and check for a head gasket or below leak? Additonally If the pressure test holds pressure I would think that it would indicate a bad EGR/Cooler is where coolant is mixing with OIl?Would it be possible to do an ordinary preassure test on each cylinder? I know some skids are quite compact and it might be hard to fit the probes but a preassure test will give you a good indivation if the top, the head gasket, pistons and their rings are okay. I regret now knowing about this quite simple procedure before buying a used Takuechi TB125 mini excavator that I later had to rip out the the whole engine and refurbish it. You live and learn ;-) Wishing you the best of luck!
UpDate 4/15 EGR/ cooler isolation. Today I connected a second hose between the 2 ports that were open. These 2 ports were open because I had previously taken off the two hoses coming to the ports and joined then together to make a closed loop. Today I pressured the radiater and was able to put 15 lbs pressure on the system. It only dropped 2lbs. in 51/2 hours so I think head gasket is not the problem. I guess there could be a problem below th pistons but this is where I ask for opinions? Thanks to all who help!'
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I would think if I am reading your post right ,your cooling system is fine ,you have removed the problem. there is a egr and aslo a egr heat exchanger ( I think). I am assuming that the heat exchanger is the hoses that you are refering to,you could pressure test what you removed to confirm problem. could it have been a gasket mating the two together?
Update and 4/15 Question. To simplify my presvious post of 4/15 I simply did the following.
I loopedthe hoses cominf from down side the block, Than I looped the two ports together. Im not sure this is right because one of the two port loop has water coming from it when I filled the radiator(see previous post). My goal has been to isolate the EGR/Cooler from getting water at all?
I loopedthe hoses cominf from down side the block, Than I looped the two ports together. Im not sure this is right because one of the two port loop has water coming from it when I filled the radiator(see previous post). My goal has been to isolate the EGR/Cooler from getting water at all?
Thank you for helping. I think you are close to the problem. I have been told that the EGR/Cooler can go bad an it will mix the coolant(water) with the motor oil? What would be helpful now would be to know the flow direction of the large hoses on the EGR/Cooler. I have looped them but have reservations because water exits one port when I filled the radiater.(see 2 update post 4/15) My goal is to not have water going to the EGR/CoolerI would think if I am reading your post right ,your cooling system is fine ,you have removed the problem. there is a egr and aslo a egr heat exchanger ( I think). I am assuming that the heat exchanger is the hoses that you are refering to,you could pressure test what you removed to confirm problem. could it have been a gasket mating the two together?
at all. If I do this and still get coolant/water mixing with Oil I have another serious problem, but because of pressure test ( see previous posts ) i think is not Head Gasket)
EGR/Cooler 4/17 update. After thinking last night about the 2 ports on the EGR/Cooler that I looped together i realized that that would not isolate the water/coolant from the EGR/Cooler. This morning I took hose and clamps, and inserted bolts in one end then hose clamped the bolts. I then slid the hose end onto the ports and clamped them. I also took the small maybe 1/4 inch hose running fromthe EGR/Cooler to the thermostat housing and blocked it off using a smaller bolt. I then had all water isolated from the EGR/Cooler. I then pressured the system to 15 lbs and it held with No drop. I filled the motor with OIl and was going to crank the engine but NOW I HAVE A STARTER ISSUE. Starting a thread on that !
Update 4/24, We have removed and blocked off the EGR/ heat exchanger ports, But have found that not to be the problem? Today after changng the filter and adding new oil to the motor it was cranked and running smoothly. In the Ten minits it was run we kept pulling the dipstick and saw the chocolate gradually come back so we shut off the engine. We debated the freeze plugs but realised that if they were the problm then we would not have held pressure on the test previously mentioned in other post. I have to add that no smoke came from the engine while running and No bubling was noticed in the radiater? Tomorrow I will use a test kit for exhaust gases to determine if they are present. One added item is that instad of oil we are going to be using Diesel in place of oil to be run at most a couple of minites. All help appreciated!
just saying, but if you HAD water in your motor, and in the oil pan, , just draining OLD oil will never get ALL the water out
when you just drain add new oil/filter, and run, your NEW oil will start to turn OLD looking FAST and can even show signs of water delusion in it!
as when your drain OLD oil, there is always some water that remains inside clinging to things in droplets and such, and or can be trapped in low spots , and running oil that was mixed with oil, can also, cause gunk and such to build and or come loose once NEW oil is mixed into things and motor is run after new oil
which then make again the new oil look BAD FAST or faster than it should!
Folks that end up with sunk motors for an example, , tend to do several oil changes and or flushes with diesel, TRYING to get everything out and back to a GOOD clean as can be inside of things
but even after a few flushes and oil changes, , they still tend to replace oil sooner than normal intervals , due to again, you never get it all out by JUST doing oil changes and flushes
now I am NOT saying you don't have an issue with coolant getting into your oil, I am just saying, that just cause you drained and replaced with new oil
that new oil might NOT stay looking new long, due to events from the water being in there before!
IMO<
if you ran motor till it came up to operating temp, and had water in the oil, you should have seen some sort of exhaust color change/smoke!
as its what it does when water is in oil?, or say coolant in oil, as That is what I gather you mean, unless your actually filling radiator with just plain water?? and if coolant is in oil at operating temps, it should also have a smell to it!
before and after running motor after oil change, did coolant level drop??
I know you said, NO bubbling in rad you could see
but did level change??
you could also send out a OIL sample to have analyzed, to tell you what is in the oil, as in if water is some getting in some odd way, , , or if coolant is getting in to it some how from radiator!/cooling system!
granted that depends on what you have for coolant in radiator(water or actual coolant)
when you just drain add new oil/filter, and run, your NEW oil will start to turn OLD looking FAST and can even show signs of water delusion in it!
as when your drain OLD oil, there is always some water that remains inside clinging to things in droplets and such, and or can be trapped in low spots , and running oil that was mixed with oil, can also, cause gunk and such to build and or come loose once NEW oil is mixed into things and motor is run after new oil
which then make again the new oil look BAD FAST or faster than it should!
Folks that end up with sunk motors for an example, , tend to do several oil changes and or flushes with diesel, TRYING to get everything out and back to a GOOD clean as can be inside of things
but even after a few flushes and oil changes, , they still tend to replace oil sooner than normal intervals , due to again, you never get it all out by JUST doing oil changes and flushes
now I am NOT saying you don't have an issue with coolant getting into your oil, I am just saying, that just cause you drained and replaced with new oil
that new oil might NOT stay looking new long, due to events from the water being in there before!
IMO<
if you ran motor till it came up to operating temp, and had water in the oil, you should have seen some sort of exhaust color change/smoke!
as its what it does when water is in oil?, or say coolant in oil, as That is what I gather you mean, unless your actually filling radiator with just plain water?? and if coolant is in oil at operating temps, it should also have a smell to it!
before and after running motor after oil change, did coolant level drop??
I know you said, NO bubbling in rad you could see
but did level change??
you could also send out a OIL sample to have analyzed, to tell you what is in the oil, as in if water is some getting in some odd way, , , or if coolant is getting in to it some how from radiator!/cooling system!
granted that depends on what you have for coolant in radiator(water or actual coolant)
