SERIOUS PROBLEM: Bobcat 843

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aaron187

aaron187

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Already up on blocks on the rear and I think it would be best to block up the front too. When I start testing the drive motors, it's probably adviseable to have the least resistance. Speaking of hydraulic fluid - does anyone know what the fluid capacity is on the 843?
The updates look great, I got my blower flywheel today also I got my U-Joints in. Could anybody tell me how to post pics on this? Its only showing a link for me and not a pic.
 

HanSolo

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The updates look great, I got my blower flywheel today also I got my U-Joints in. Could anybody tell me how to post pics on this? Its only showing a link for me and not a pic.
Read through this thread Aaron http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=2445 it will take you a couple of tries but even I was able to figure it out eventually. And... I'm very pleased to report that the 843 LIVES! Last night I hooked up the wires, coolant hoses and fuel lines. I left the fuel pump out of circuit to "bump" the fluid through the rebuilt pump. I then topped off the hydraulic tank. That little Izusu insisted on starting though! I would just turn the key off quickly. After about a half dozen of those I let it idle and tested the arms and bucket. Nice and smooth! Then I checked the hydraulic fluid. It pulled it down maybe 1/2 gal. I still had to put the exhaust pipe and air cleaner back on, so I shut it down and did those. So, I'm ready to test drive motors and fired it back up, removed the blocks and eased it back and forth. That motion is nice and smooth too. The hydraulics on the 843 are much smoother and quieter than the M700. I didn't think I'd care for the safety bar but it's actually kind of nice to have a place to rest your forearms. I rev'd it up and took it down the drive way. The sun is going down and it's really nice to have lights on the machine! I love the diesel engine power and it's much quieter than the air cooled Wisconsin. Next up - change motor oil and filter, change both hydraulic filters. I rescued the right side Bob-tach mechanism this morning so I won't need those parts. And I'll use the M700 to lift the right side arm to put in a correct pin. I can't wait to put a bucket on it and see how well it moves dirt. At this point, I think the 843 is the keeper and some lucky person will be buying a restored M700!
 
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aaron187

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Read through this thread Aaron http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=2445 it will take you a couple of tries but even I was able to figure it out eventually. And... I'm very pleased to report that the 843 LIVES! Last night I hooked up the wires, coolant hoses and fuel lines. I left the fuel pump out of circuit to "bump" the fluid through the rebuilt pump. I then topped off the hydraulic tank. That little Izusu insisted on starting though! I would just turn the key off quickly. After about a half dozen of those I let it idle and tested the arms and bucket. Nice and smooth! Then I checked the hydraulic fluid. It pulled it down maybe 1/2 gal. I still had to put the exhaust pipe and air cleaner back on, so I shut it down and did those. So, I'm ready to test drive motors and fired it back up, removed the blocks and eased it back and forth. That motion is nice and smooth too. The hydraulics on the 843 are much smoother and quieter than the M700. I didn't think I'd care for the safety bar but it's actually kind of nice to have a place to rest your forearms. I rev'd it up and took it down the drive way. The sun is going down and it's really nice to have lights on the machine! I love the diesel engine power and it's much quieter than the air cooled Wisconsin. Next up - change motor oil and filter, change both hydraulic filters. I rescued the right side Bob-tach mechanism this morning so I won't need those parts. And I'll use the M700 to lift the right side arm to put in a correct pin. I can't wait to put a bucket on it and see how well it moves dirt. At this point, I think the 843 is the keeper and some lucky person will be buying a restored M700!
Awesome! I'm really glad to hear you got it running well. I would have worked on myn today but I threw my back out ( again ) loading the cherry picker in my little jeep. So I may be down a few days off from my day job but that will just give me time to slowly piece it together here. Pics to come ( if my browser lets me )
 
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aaron187

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Awesome! I'm really glad to hear you got it running well. I would have worked on myn today but I threw my back out ( again ) loading the cherry picker in my little jeep. So I may be down a few days off from my day job but that will just give me time to slowly piece it together here. Pics to come ( if my browser lets me )
Ok so this link here ( that I was given ) is the wrong U-Joints. http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/p-6052-neapco-1-2186-2c-u-joint-4-lwd.aspx They are similar but too small. Any body know which ones they are? HanSolo did you get yours from the dealership?
 

HanSolo

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Ok so this link here ( that I was given ) is the wrong U-Joints. http://www.drivetrainamerica.com/p-6052-neapco-1-2186-2c-u-joint-4-lwd.aspx They are similar but too small. Any body know which ones they are? HanSolo did you get yours from the dealership?
Yeah Aaron, I got the Bobcat u-joint from the dealer. Part # 6599451. It wasn't cheap $266.55 ouch! I don't know if your attaching bolts are toast but those are Part # 94G524 $1.34 each.
 

Tazza

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Yeah Aaron, I got the Bobcat u-joint from the dealer. Part # 6599451. It wasn't cheap $266.55 ouch! I don't know if your attaching bolts are toast but those are Part # 94G524 $1.34 each.
Awesome news. I think you will be surprised with the power. I have an S150 and an S250. The 250 doesn't feel all that powerful till you actually push or lift with it, then it really shines.
 
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aaron187

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Awesome news. I think you will be surprised with the power. I have an S150 and an S250. The 250 doesn't feel all that powerful till you actually push or lift with it, then it really shines.
Ok, I have all the parts and am working on the bobcat now, ( I finally got a day off from work ) so I plan on getting this bitch running by dark. Pictures to follow later, Thanks for the walk through so far guys. Dont think I would have got this far
 

HanSolo

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Ok, I have all the parts and am working on the bobcat now, ( I finally got a day off from work ) so I plan on getting this bitch running by dark. Pictures to follow later, Thanks for the walk through so far guys. Dont think I would have got this far
Cool. I hope you have a buddy to help you get that coupler lined up on the splines. Also, run the engine wire harness outside of the coolant hose. Mine was laying against the exhaust manifold and starting to fry.
 
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aaron187

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Cool. I hope you have a buddy to help you get that coupler lined up on the splines. Also, run the engine wire harness outside of the coolant hose. Mine was laying against the exhaust manifold and starting to fry.
Well speaking of the coupler, the bolts that sheared off will not come out. I think the one is rusted in. So I'll be getting a new "Yoke" they call it, soon. Also that big pump to the right of the drive pump ( where all the lines go into ) is leaking. I turned over the pump by hand to prime it about 200 revolutions, and just from hand turning it was leaking out of some seals. Bobcat Dealer is going to replace the seals pretty cheap so its already out and ready to take to them on Thursday. Here is a pick, also were you talking about having a buddy to help me line up the yoke to the hydralic pump? like to possibly turn the crankshaft to help line it up? Here is a leaky pic of what I'm talking about.
R7FCfLMLAznj_pJgiKGf_xI9vvpMx5o1cIUiztCqCtk
 
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aaron187

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Well speaking of the coupler, the bolts that sheared off will not come out. I think the one is rusted in. So I'll be getting a new "Yoke" they call it, soon. Also that big pump to the right of the drive pump ( where all the lines go into ) is leaking. I turned over the pump by hand to prime it about 200 revolutions, and just from hand turning it was leaking out of some seals. Bobcat Dealer is going to replace the seals pretty cheap so its already out and ready to take to them on Thursday. Here is a pick, also were you talking about having a buddy to help me line up the yoke to the hydralic pump? like to possibly turn the crankshaft to help line it up? Here is a leaky pic of what I'm talking about.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/j8ee9xzyt751y6e/rB-PlTamPW/20130507_145343.jpg
 

Tazza

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https://www.dropbox.com/sh/j8ee9xzyt751y6e/rB-PlTamPW/20130507_145343.jpg
The hard part is lining the yoke up with the splines on the pump. Generally someone is in the back nudging the engine forward slowly, the other person is under the cab with an arm through the blower housing holding the yoke up to line up with the pump. They must be careful not to get a finger pinched between the two! i can't stress that enough, a few hundred kg engine vs a finger, is not pretty. When they are touching, they may not mesh straight away. You will need to rotate the engine slightly and push to get it to fully seat.
It's an easy job, but one that you really do need a helper.
 

HanSolo

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https://www.dropbox.com/sh/j8ee9xzyt751y6e/rB-PlTamPW/20130507_145343.jpg
Exactly what Tazza wrote. I couldn't place the pump from memory that your pictures showed. Priming pump perhaps? My 843 is working well but it's been much to wet lately to do much of anything. I have ordered some new front tires and I'm replacing the coolant sender and gauge. I'll post some photos when I get the new tires on.
 

HanSolo

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Exactly what Tazza wrote. I couldn't place the pump from memory that your pictures showed. Priming pump perhaps? My 843 is working well but it's been much to wet lately to do much of anything. I have ordered some new front tires and I'm replacing the coolant sender and gauge. I'll post some photos when I get the new tires on.
Well, I got the new front tires. They're the 12x16.5 Solideal Hauler SKZ Lifemaster. I thought they were the same tread pattern as my rears but it's a smaller shevron shape. I'm okay with that but the OD of the tire is 1" larger than the rears. That's odd. However, I still think that's not going to adversely effect the performance of the loader. My bucket angle was definitely too shallow with the completely worn front tires that came with it. So it looks a little odd but seems to be tracking and cutting well.
 photo 20130510_162903_zpsc760c61e.jpg
 

Tazza

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Well, I got the new front tires. They're the 12x16.5 Solideal Hauler SKZ Lifemaster. I thought they were the same tread pattern as my rears but it's a smaller shevron shape. I'm okay with that but the OD of the tire is 1" larger than the rears. That's odd. However, I still think that's not going to adversely effect the performance of the loader. My bucket angle was definitely too shallow with the completely worn front tires that came with it. So it looks a little odd but seems to be tracking and cutting well.
What sort of surfaces are you going to be driving on? if it's just dirt, it will be ok. If it's concrete or bitumen, you really need to put the new tyres on the same side. If not, the tyres fight eachother and will wear your chains and sprockets faster. You can evan snap a chain.
 

HanSolo

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What sort of surfaces are you going to be driving on? if it's just dirt, it will be ok. If it's concrete or bitumen, you really need to put the new tyres on the same side. If not, the tyres fight eachother and will wear your chains and sprockets faster. You can evan snap a chain.
Copy that Tazza. This will be used on my property in the dirt and on the gravel driveway. Wouldn't your cut angle be slanted if you had 1" over-size tires on one side (if only 1/2"). Another fix would be to have the larger tires shaved a 1/2" but that sure is wasting good rubber. Some of the sports car guys do that with extreme performance tires to keep tread squirm down.
 

Tazza

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Copy that Tazza. This will be used on my property in the dirt and on the gravel driveway. Wouldn't your cut angle be slanted if you had 1" over-size tires on one side (if only 1/2"). Another fix would be to have the larger tires shaved a 1/2" but that sure is wasting good rubber. Some of the sports car guys do that with extreme performance tires to keep tread squirm down.
It would put a slight slope on the bucket, but most of the time, you won't notice that. I think you will be fine how you have it now for home use.
My machine only works in dirt too, so different tyre sizes aren't as big of an issue.
 
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aaron187

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It would put a slight slope on the bucket, but most of the time, you won't notice that. I think you will be fine how you have it now for home use.
My machine only works in dirt too, so different tyre sizes aren't as big of an issue.
Ok, Sorry for not posting for a while, but I have an excuse. That cog that holds the u-joint onto the engine / pump had a bolt sheared off inside it, What a pain. tryed welding a small bolt to it and backing it out, nothing. So finally today I tried to drill it out with my best bits, I did after an hour and 3 bits later, so then I tried tapping it. Kind of messed up the threds trying to get it to start cause its a pain. So i bought a new tap, tapped it about 6 threads deep and then SNAP.... the tip of it broke off deep in the hole, I eventually got pissed from pickin on it and just beat it down into the hole. turned it over and beat the bottom of it and somehow it came out. Also I jarred loose the thousanths of an inch left of bolt that was stuck in there. So i picked that out. Success....almost. So i put the u-joint on, bolt stripped out, very pissed. Took it back out and re-tapped it with ANOTHER tap and finally, after about 6 hour of Patience training, its bolted together.
here you can see the old bolt starting to come out of the old threads.
u-joint%203.jpg

finally got it started
u-joint%202.jpg

Now all i need is a new grease fitting and assembly begins
u-joint%201.jpg
 

jlmoon

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Ok, Sorry for not posting for a while, but I have an excuse. That cog that holds the u-joint onto the engine / pump had a bolt sheared off inside it, What a pain. tryed welding a small bolt to it and backing it out, nothing. So finally today I tried to drill it out with my best bits, I did after an hour and 3 bits later, so then I tried tapping it. Kind of messed up the threds trying to get it to start cause its a pain. So i bought a new tap, tapped it about 6 threads deep and then SNAP.... the tip of it broke off deep in the hole, I eventually got pissed from pickin on it and just beat it down into the hole. turned it over and beat the bottom of it and somehow it came out. Also I jarred loose the thousanths of an inch left of bolt that was stuck in there. So i picked that out. Success....almost. So i put the u-joint on, bolt stripped out, very pissed. Took it back out and re-tapped it with ANOTHER tap and finally, after about 6 hour of Patience training, its bolted together.
here you can see the old bolt starting to come out of the old threads.

finally got it started

Now all i need is a new grease fitting and assembly begins
aaron, Couldn't you have drilled a very small hole in the middle of that sheered bolt to fit a ezout and with a little heat applied back that broken bolt right out of there? Saving the original threads and all? JLM
 
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aaron187

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aaron, Couldn't you have drilled a very small hole in the middle of that sheered bolt to fit a ezout and with a little heat applied back that broken bolt right out of there? Saving the original threads and all? JLM
I drilled through yes, easy outs were softer than the metal I was working with and they just kept stripping. I beat the back of the cog ( cleaning old welds off ) and it jarred loose the old bolt ( what was left of it ), thats the first pic I put up there. I'm picking loose the bolt out of the origional threads. I matched up my threads on the bolts to a tap, it was a 5/16 24 teeth per inch. so it fit exact. So when I tapped it the final time it was really just cleaning out all the metal shavings from the existing threads.
 

Tazza

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I drilled through yes, easy outs were softer than the metal I was working with and they just kept stripping. I beat the back of the cog ( cleaning old welds off ) and it jarred loose the old bolt ( what was left of it ), thats the first pic I put up there. I'm picking loose the bolt out of the origional threads. I matched up my threads on the bolts to a tap, it was a 5/16 24 teeth per inch. so it fit exact. So when I tapped it the final time it was really just cleaning out all the metal shavings from the existing threads.
Sounds like a real battle.... Been there, done that before, never a fun job.
Can you re-post your images? the ones you used were located on your computer, so they don't show up on the forum.
 
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