Repowering Case 1830 with Ford inline 6

[phlegm]

You can always add a block heater that goes into the water jacket of the engine. Other types mount to the sump to warm the oil too.
Just how cold does it get there?

I was planning on adding a block heater, I hadn't decided if it would be an in block type (through a softplug hole) or an inline one (using the heater hoses). I was more interested in a heater for the occupant (me). How cold does it get in Fargo ND? Our record cold temp is around -30f During a 'normal' winter, we will have several days to a week where the temps drop and stay around -20f through -25f. And then there is the windchill... On cold days in the winter it isn't abnormal to see "Sun Dogs"

More rare and harder to photograph are the double Sun Dogs

I will be researching the thinnest oil I can run for the hydraulic system, and for chain lube as this skidsteer will be used a lot more in the winter than it will in the summer.

 

[Tazza]

I was planning on adding a block heater, I hadn't decided if it would be an in block type (through a softplug hole) or an inline one (using the heater hoses). I was more interested in a heater for the occupant (me). How cold does it get in Fargo ND? Our record cold temp is around -30f During a 'normal' winter, we will have several days to a week where the temps drop and stay around -20f through -25f. And then there is the windchill... On cold days in the winter it isn't abnormal to see "Sun Dogs" More rare and harder to photograph are the double Sun Dogs
I will be researching the thinnest oil I can run for the hydraulic system, and for chain lube as this skidsteer will be used a lot more in the winter than it will in the summer.

Ok, so it does get a little chilly there
I wouldn't mess with an electric heater, you want one that taps into the coolant system. I don't remember what brands other people have used, but they did say that whatever they used worked out really well.
The only issue they had was getting coolant to move through the heater core, someone ran an electric water pump to feed the heater core.

 

[phlegm]

Ok, so it does get a little chilly there
I wouldn't mess with an electric heater, you want one that taps into the coolant system. I don't remember what brands other people have used, but they did say that whatever they used worked out really well.
The only issue they had was getting coolant to move through the heater core, someone ran an electric water pump to feed the heater core.

I was thinking of using a standard automotive heater core and fan, then building a box and route heated air to places of need (me) and potentially hydraulic motor area especially if I run regular viscosity fluids. Something like this one. Maradyne Santa Fe Auxiliary Heaters HC-400012 -- Summit.com

I don't want this to sound to blunt, but I wouldn't waste my time with electric heat for a passenger. I've seen the auxiliary heaters designed for cars that are designed to be used while the vehicle heated up. And I don't know that I'd even want to deal with the extra electrical draw on the system. Plan for now: Engine block or tank heater auxiliary heater box I could get by without a heater for me, I haven't had one on my previous tractors ever and I've been moving snow and hay bales since 2004, even in the dead of winter. I just bundle up head to toe in Carhart and move fast. But at this point, it would be pretty easy to add one, so I may as well just do it.

 

[phlegm]

I was thinking of using a standard automotive heater core and fan, then building a box and route heated air to places of need (me) and potentially hydraulic motor area especially if I run regular viscosity fluids. Something like this one. Maradyne Santa Fe Auxiliary Heaters HC-400012 -- Summit.com I don't want this to sound to blunt, but I wouldn't waste my time with electric heat for a passenger. I've seen the auxiliary heaters designed for cars that are designed to be used while the vehicle heated up. And I don't know that I'd even want to deal with the extra electrical draw on the system. Plan for now: Engine block or tank heater auxiliary heater box I could get by without a heater for me, I haven't had one on my previous tractors ever and I've been moving snow and hay bales since 2004, even in the dead of winter. I just bundle up head to toe in Carhart and move fast. But at this point, it would be pretty easy to add one, so I may as well just do it.

I should have added, since this is an automotive motor, it is already set up for use with a heater core. Hot coolant comes out this port by the thermostat.

and gets sucked back into the water pump for a return line.

 

[Tazza]

I should have added, since this is an automotive motor, it is already set up for use with a heater core. Hot coolant comes out this port by the thermostat. and gets sucked back into the water pump for a return line.

I like how compact the blower/heater core is from summit.
I am unsure how how many BTU/hr would be required, but i guess iven if it can't keep up, it will help warm the cab a little.
Glad it's you working in the middle of winter and not me, i don't mind the cold, but there is a limit

 

[Hotrod1830]

I like how compact the blower/heater core is from summit.
I am unsure how how many BTU/hr would be required, but i guess iven if it can't keep up, it will help warm the cab a little.
Glad it's you working in the middle of winter and not me, i don't mind the cold, but there is a limit

-30Degrees........ LOL. Better you than me. I start sounding like a little cheerleader at around 0 deg.
I noticed you routed the exhaust pipe Under the engine. Not a real good idea. Sorry I just now noticed it. Oil is very flammable when hot. It can easily ignite if subjected to the high heat of an exhaust pipe. Any oil leaks from the engine will get on the exhaust and stand a chance of igniting. Second reason, is increasing oil temps. hot coolant is bad, Hot oil is even worse.
My suggestion would be to route the exhaust out the right side of the rear door. Nothing saying you can't move the battery to the left side to make room for the exhaust.
That is a good choice for a cab heater. They make sump heaters that stick to the bottom of oil pans. You could put one on both sides. If you are using oil and block heaters, no need for a thinner oil.

 

[Tazza]

-30Degrees........ LOL. Better you than me. I start sounding like a little cheerleader at around 0 deg.
I noticed you routed the exhaust pipe Under the engine. Not a real good idea. Sorry I just now noticed it. Oil is very flammable when hot. It can easily ignite if subjected to the high heat of an exhaust pipe. Any oil leaks from the engine will get on the exhaust and stand a chance of igniting. Second reason, is increasing oil temps. hot coolant is bad, Hot oil is even worse.
My suggestion would be to route the exhaust out the right side of the rear door. Nothing saying you can't move the battery to the left side to make room for the exhaust.
That is a good choice for a cab heater. They make sump heaters that stick to the bottom of oil pans. You could put one on both sides. If you are using oil and block heaters, no need for a thinner oil.

Could you wrap the exhause with insulation like people do with turbo cars to keep the heat down?

 

[Hotrod1830]

Could you wrap the exhause with insulation like people do with turbo cars to keep the heat down?

You could wrap it with header wrap. You would have to keep an eye out for oil leaks though. That header wrap is like a sponge for oil.

 

[phlegm]

You could wrap it with header wrap. You would have to keep an eye out for oil leaks though. That header wrap is like a sponge for oil.

If you are having problems viewing my pictures (hosted by photobucket); I would recommend downloading this plug in for Google Chrome, it will "fix" the Chrome browser and start showing you pictures from Photobucket again.
Photobucket Embedded Image Fix

Another year lost... But I am still working on it.
Ever so slowly...

As always, I had other projects that were priority so this one got put on the back burner, again.

But as of a couple weeks ago I decided that this is going to be a priority to get running and mobile under its own power, nothing re-ignites fire for a project like one that can actually DO something.

A couple weeks ago, I removed all the stuff that I was storing on top of it and got back to work.

I started by making a small bracket to mount a Ford style starter solenoid and an ignition resistor block onto.

And a small ignition wiring harness, completely bypassing and replacing all the other junk that the previous owner left behind. There is a 20amp blade type fuse (ATC I think) in that fuse holder.

Here I made a small aluminum bracket and mounted a new ignition switch into place behind the right side control arm. The arm does not get anywhere close to the ignition switch.

I got tired of looking at this mess, and honestly thinking about troubleshooting this was depressing. So I pulled it all out. Amazingly there were only (3) small red wires that came out of this rats nest that went back to anything on the skidsteer. And even those red wires weren't hooked to anything. There was literally NOTHING in this mess that was doing anything, and this was all for the gauge set.

Here is almost all of the original wiring, no pulled out of the skidsteer. egad what a nightmare. I think the previous owner grabbed whatever connector and whatever piece of wire he could find laying on the shop workbench when he was assembling this mess. Its hard to see, but there is a 110v light switch in there somewhere.

The governor that I installed a while back uses a cable pull. So I won't be using the previous owners 'custom built' throttle linkage, out it came!

I don't know why its bent like that.

I started worrying about belt alignment and how to get everything to spin.

I need to decide if I am going to run the governor off the waterpump, it looks like it would line up nicely.

Or if I should use a double groove pulley on the alternator and either run a second long belt around everything, or a short belt between the alternator and governor as was done on the industrial 300 pictured earlier.

I've got an IH 345 v8 sitting on the shop floor that I could borrow the double groove pulley from, or I found another Ford alternator at Dad's house a week ago that has one. So either option is a possibility.

 

[phlegm]

If you are having problems viewing my pictures (hosted by photobucket); I would recommend downloading this plug in for Google Chrome, it will "fix" the Chrome browser and start showing you pictures from Photobucket again.
Photobucket Embedded Image Fix

Another year lost... But I am still working on it.
Ever so slowly...

As always, I had other projects that were priority so this one got put on the back burner, again.

But as of a couple weeks ago I decided that this is going to be a priority to get running and mobile under its own power, nothing re-ignites fire for a project like one that can actually DO something.

A couple weeks ago, I removed all the stuff that I was storing on top of it and got back to work.


I started by making a small bracket to mount a Ford style starter solenoid and an ignition resistor block onto.


And a small ignition wiring harness, completely bypassing and replacing all the other junk that the previous owner left behind. There is a 20amp blade type fuse (ATC I think) in that fuse holder.


Here I made a small aluminum bracket and mounted a new ignition switch into place behind the right side control arm. The arm does not get anywhere close to the ignition switch.


I got tired of looking at this mess, and honestly thinking about troubleshooting this was depressing. So I pulled it all out. Amazingly there were only (3) small red wires that came out of this rats nest that went back to anything on the skidsteer. And even those red wires weren't hooked to anything. There was literally NOTHING in this mess that was doing anything, and this was all for the gauge set.




Here is almost all of the original wiring, no pulled out of the skidsteer. egad what a nightmare. I think the previous owner grabbed whatever connector and whatever piece of wire he could find laying on the shop workbench when he was assembling this mess. Its hard to see, but there is a 110v light switch in there somewhere.


The governor that I installed a while back uses a cable pull. So I won't be using the previous owners 'custom built' throttle linkage, out it came!


I don't know why its bent like that.



I started worrying about belt alignment and how to get everything to spin.



I need to decide if I am going to run the governor off the waterpump, it looks like it would line up nicely.



Or if I should use a double groove pulley on the alternator and either run a second long belt around everything, or a short belt between the alternator and governor as was done on the industrial 300 pictured earlier.

I've got an IH 345 v8 sitting on the shop floor that I could borrow the double groove pulley from, or I found another Ford alternator at Dad's house a week ago that has one. So either option is a possibility.

I started making motor mounts, finally.
I set the vertical uprights about 1/2" behind the gas tank and used the motor mounts to determine the angle for the inclination of the top angle iron (top angle iron is 2"x2", uprights are 2"x2"). I decided that since I could not create a vertical mount directly from the lower deck to the motor mount locations, that I would extend the 2" angle iron to the rear most bracket, and there I will add some heavy wall steel spacer tubing with 7/16" bolts.

Left Side.

Right Side

Looking from the rear, the angle iron will be in approximately this orientation. There is a socket on the right side approximating what the steel spacers will look like once I cut them.

And this all was looking good. Except.

They need to be at least an inch taller for oil pan to gas tank clearance. I built these under the false assumption that I could lower the engine at least an inch after I took out the 2x4 block. However once I take out that block, the motor drops about 1/2" and the oil pan directly contacts the original motor mount brace that is welded to the gas tank. Not Good.

This the right side vertical support is way to close to the fuel line for my comfort.

So out they came, and I added 1.25" to the bottom of each upright.

To address the right side upright being too close to the fuel line, I cut a wedge out of the bottom of in, so that it recessed about 1/2".

And I welded it back together.

A little cleanup with a grinder and a flap wheel. It is looking much better.

I also made a 2"x2" foot for the upright, it has a port window for the fuel line to pass through and this will be bolted directly to the floor once I get around to drilling more holes. The white parts will be cut away.

Looking much better by the fuel line now. Once its bolted, I won't have to worry about damaging the fitting.

Using the power of the internet, I finished welding it and ground down the welds to make a decent surface to paint.

A couple coats of primer and black paint.. and it is looking pretty good to me.

FYI, don't try painting things at 40f and rushing the job. Bad things happen. The paint just sort of oozed off the end. I fixed this later.

I finally picked up a piece of flexible exhaust tubing to help with my bad angle.

And a muffler

The motor starts and idles nice, but without a radiator or good motor mounts, I haven't ran it very long, nor have I hooked up the coupler chain for the hydraulic pumps.

A couple videos of it starting and idling.
https://youtu.be/Hw9OnCOpniw
https://youtu.be/dwrG1ce5NA8

And now you are all caught up. Next I need to finish the left side frame/motor bracket. Then figure out how to support the engine to hydraulic pump "box". Then I'll be in good shape to get a radiator in it and finally try moving it under its own power.

 

[Tazza]

I started making motor mounts, finally.
I set the vertical uprights about 1/2" behind the gas tank and used the motor mounts to determine the angle for the inclination of the top angle iron (top angle iron is 2"x2", uprights are 2"x2"). I decided that since I could not create a vertical mount directly from the lower deck to the motor mount locations, that I would extend the 2" angle iron to the rear most bracket, and there I will add some heavy wall steel spacer tubing with 7/16" bolts.

Left Side.

Right Side


Looking from the rear, the angle iron will be in approximately this orientation. There is a socket on the right side approximating what the steel spacers will look like once I cut them.


And this all was looking good. Except.

They need to be at least an inch taller for oil pan to gas tank clearance. I built these under the false assumption that I could lower the engine at least an inch after I took out the 2x4 block. However once I take out that block, the motor drops about 1/2" and the oil pan directly contacts the original motor mount brace that is welded to the gas tank. Not Good.



This the right side vertical support is way to close to the fuel line for my comfort.


So out they came, and I added 1.25" to the bottom of each upright.


To address the right side upright being too close to the fuel line, I cut a wedge out of the bottom of in, so that it recessed about 1/2".


And I welded it back together.

A little cleanup with a grinder and a flap wheel. It is looking much better.


I also made a 2"x2" foot for the upright, it has a port window for the fuel line to pass through and this will be bolted directly to the floor once I get around to drilling more holes. The white parts will be cut away.


Looking much better by the fuel line now. Once its bolted, I won't have to worry about damaging the fitting.


Using the power of the internet, I finished welding it and ground down the welds to make a decent surface to paint.


A couple coats of primer and black paint.. and it is looking pretty good to me.



FYI, don't try painting things at 40f and rushing the job. Bad things happen. The paint just sort of oozed off the end. I fixed this later.



I finally picked up a piece of flexible exhaust tubing to help with my bad angle.

And a muffler


The motor starts and idles nice, but without a radiator or good motor mounts, I haven't ran it very long, nor have I hooked up the coupler chain for the hydraulic pumps.

A couple videos of it starting and idling.
https://youtu.be/Hw9OnCOpniw
https://youtu.be/dwrG1ce5NA8

And now you are all caught up. Next I need to finish the left side frame/motor bracket. Then figure out how to support the engine to hydraulic pump "box". Then I'll be in good shape to get a radiator in it and finally try moving it under its own power.

Sadly the images didn't work, photobucket doesn't allow for third party viewing of files unless you pay a butt load to them.

 

[phlegm]

Sadly the images didn't work, photobucket doesn't allow for third party viewing of files unless you pay a butt load to them.

regarding pictures, I paid their ransom.
They finally came up with a plan I could stomach, Its their Premier 200 plan.
Premier for Personal Use Plan P200
For Personal Use
Perfect for forums, blogs and personal websites

• Store up to 300,000 Photos (I have 9800 currently in photobucket)
• Unlimited 3rd Party Hosting (Non-commercial)*
• Unlimited Forum Embedding
• Unlimited Sharing

$100/yr.
I sent them (photobucket support) an email to see how long I should expect the account upgrade to take, hopefully the images will be visible soon. I have been using the Google Chrome browser with a plug in to see images (I posted the link above) so I don't notice the problem that much any more.


Getting back to the skidsteer, this morning I decided that since I now have (2) motor mount supports compared to the original configuration of (1). I am going to put (1) rubber mount under the engine/hydraulic pump box instead of the original (2).

Otherwise I would have (4) rubber mounts and that seems like overkill.
With only (3) it will make installation a lot easier. And I really shouldn't have to worry about twist with (3) rubber mounts, nothing motor or hydraulic pump actually engages the ground, and the pump/motor twist against each other, so as long as they are suspended and isolated from the chassis, they should be good.
I think I might have to raise the lever pivot point up the same amount that the transmission is raised above stock. Otherwise when I pull the levers back, I may not get full range of movement.

And the hunt is on for a suitable radiator.

 

[phlegm]

regarding pictures, I paid their ransom.
They finally came up with a plan I could stomach, Its their Premier 200 plan.
Premier for Personal Use Plan P200
For Personal Use
Perfect for forums, blogs and personal websites


Store up to 300,000 Photos (I have 9800 currently in photobucket)
Unlimited 3rd Party Hosting (Non-commercial)*
Unlimited Forum Embedding
Unlimited Sharing


$100/yr.
I sent them (photobucket support) an email to see how long I should expect the account upgrade to take, hopefully the images will be visible soon. I have been using the Google Chrome browser with a plug in to see images (I posted the link above) so I don't notice the problem that much any more.


Getting back to the skidsteer, this morning I decided that since I now have (2) motor mount supports compared to the original configuration of (1). I am going to put (1) rubber mount under the engine/hydraulic pump box instead of the original (2).

Otherwise I would have (4) rubber mounts and that seems like overkill.
With only (3) it will make installation a lot easier. And I really shouldn't have to worry about twist with (3) rubber mounts, nothing motor or hydraulic pump actually engages the ground, and the pump/motor twist against each other, so as long as they are suspended and isolated from the chassis, they should be good.
I think I might have to raise the lever pivot point up the same amount that the transmission is raised above stock. Otherwise when I pull the levers back, I may not get full range of movement.

And the hunt is on for a suitable radiator.

The images now show up for me after the email to photobucket, they said I might need to clear my browser cache and cookies, but I didn't have to, I just hit [ctrl]+F5 to force a reload in Internet Explorer and now they are visible.

 

[Tazza]

The images now show up for me after the email to photobucket, they said I might need to clear my browser cache and cookies, but I didn't have to, I just hit [ctrl]+F5 to force a reload in Internet Explorer and now they are visible.

Looks good, images are working for me now.
Glad you came to an agreement with them, to a price you could handle.
Looking forward to seeing more progress