PTO to Skidsteer Snowblower Conversion

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dozer

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Mar 26, 2009
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126
I am going to try and make a how to for this with pictures. It will be slow as I need to do all the fabrication for this and some parts are expensive and will take time to get. All work will be done in my garage with 110v tools and I will explain anything that is taken out to do.
In the beginning there was a no-name 6' Single Stage blower. I picked it up in a trade for a small skidsteer trailer I had no use for. It is good mechanical shape and the owner had it hooked a a tractor to show me how well it worked. It throws compacted snow about 25 feet which is fine for my purposes. Photobucket Photobucket
 
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dozer

dozer

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Mar 26, 2009
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126
Construction is coming along. I have taken most of the bolts off to get the three point part taken off and recently re-sprayed all the gear box bolts with WD-40 to loosen them up a little. Amazing what 30+ ND Winters does for rust.
I was over at the local welding shop trying to decide what type of system I want to use for the spout turning mechanism and I think I am going with a horseshoe system. Once I get a pic of the one I will base it on I will get it on here.
But it is coming along. Just trying to sell the snowplow to finance the purchase of the hydraulic motor for the blower.
 

leaddog

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Dec 17, 2009
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Construction is coming along. I have taken most of the bolts off to get the three point part taken off and recently re-sprayed all the gear box bolts with WD-40 to loosen them up a little. Amazing what 30+ ND Winters does for rust.
I was over at the local welding shop trying to decide what type of system I want to use for the spout turning mechanism and I think I am going with a horseshoe system. Once I get a pic of the one I will base it on I will get it on here.
But it is coming along. Just trying to sell the snowplow to finance the purchase of the hydraulic motor for the blower.
Are you going to make an 3-point att attachment plate and put the pto drive on that so you can use it for other 3 point attachments? I'm planning on doing that this spring as I want to run my 7ft snowblower, brushhog, and tiller. The only problem I forsee is the attachments will stick out further if I use the same drive shafts. I am going to set the pto motor back in some so it will help. I have a 4520asv with the pto option and I'm going to take it out and put it on the plate. I know they made a 3point option but by doing it this way I can use the lift arms and raise the blower and brush hog higher making it more versital. I've looked at several different designs of 3 point attachment plates and they all look quite simple to weld up. I'm watching your progress closely. leaddog
 

coreya3212

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Feb 4, 2009
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257
Are you going to make an 3-point att attachment plate and put the pto drive on that so you can use it for other 3 point attachments? I'm planning on doing that this spring as I want to run my 7ft snowblower, brushhog, and tiller. The only problem I forsee is the attachments will stick out further if I use the same drive shafts. I am going to set the pto motor back in some so it will help. I have a 4520asv with the pto option and I'm going to take it out and put it on the plate. I know they made a 3point option but by doing it this way I can use the lift arms and raise the blower and brush hog higher making it more versital. I've looked at several different designs of 3 point attachment plates and they all look quite simple to weld up. I'm watching your progress closely. leaddog
Hi fellas. I did this 3 pt with a hyd motor to drive 3 pt implements. Rough mower, cement mixer and auger so far. What I found to be the biggest problem is that my 3pt bobcat attachment has stationary lower mount points. They dont swing in and out like a tractor lower link does for width. I have had to custom up a mount for every 3 pt implement to get them to fit on the bobcat. I bought the 3 pt attachment, so if you build your own and solve this problem, please post some pics. good luck.
 

jerry

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May 3, 2007
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Hi fellas. I did this 3 pt with a hyd motor to drive 3 pt implements. Rough mower, cement mixer and auger so far. What I found to be the biggest problem is that my 3pt bobcat attachment has stationary lower mount points. They dont swing in and out like a tractor lower link does for width. I have had to custom up a mount for every 3 pt implement to get them to fit on the bobcat. I bought the 3 pt attachment, so if you build your own and solve this problem, please post some pics. good luck.
Corey, what did you end up using for a motor as far as size and cost? I have old erskine v type single stage on the back of a ford tractor and I am thinking what you used for a motor should be about right for it. It works fine on the tractor so it should be good on the skidsteer. thanks
 

coreya3212

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Feb 4, 2009
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257
Corey, what did you end up using for a motor as far as size and cost? I have old erskine v type single stage on the back of a ford tractor and I am thinking what you used for a motor should be about right for it. It works fine on the tractor so it should be good on the skidsteer. thanks
I knew someone would ask me this question. honestly all I did was grab on off the shelf at Princess auto, (same as Harbour freight in the US) and give it a go. basically I use the engine rpms to get the speed of the attachment right. I will have a look to see if I can get a model and make off it, but I think its too buried in snow. Originally, I borrowe done from my neighbour, we measured the rpms on the tractor at full throttle and got 700 rpm actually, and then hook the motor to the bobcat, and checked it. It was in the ball park so we ran with it, but i mounted it poorly and cracked the face. So i grabbed one off the shlef that was on sale for 70 bucks and used it.
 

jerry

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May 3, 2007
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I knew someone would ask me this question. honestly all I did was grab on off the shelf at Princess auto, (same as Harbour freight in the US) and give it a go. basically I use the engine rpms to get the speed of the attachment right. I will have a look to see if I can get a model and make off it, but I think its too buried in snow. Originally, I borrowe done from my neighbour, we measured the rpms on the tractor at full throttle and got 700 rpm actually, and then hook the motor to the bobcat, and checked it. It was in the ball park so we ran with it, but i mounted it poorly and cracked the face. So i grabbed one off the shlef that was on sale for 70 bucks and used it.
It can wait till summer corey, that is the way I would do it also, take what is available and if it doesn't work try something bigger. 70 bucks sounds dirt cheap for a motor. thanks
 
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dozer

dozer

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Mar 26, 2009
Messages
126
It can wait till summer corey, that is the way I would do it also, take what is available and if it doesn't work try something bigger. 70 bucks sounds dirt cheap for a motor. thanks
Yeah that is dirt cheap.
The motor I found that will work and give me the HP I need is over $800. Everything I found at Burden in the end only produces up to 25 hp. Which would be fine but the blower is rated up to 50hp and my machine can produce 55hp so I need something with a little more.
I will be calling a few eaton dealers tommorrow to see if someone can't work out a good price for the part I need.
Dozer
 

SkidRoe

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Dec 10, 2009
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Yeah that is dirt cheap.
The motor I found that will work and give me the HP I need is over $800. Everything I found at Burden in the end only produces up to 25 hp. Which would be fine but the blower is rated up to 50hp and my machine can produce 55hp so I need something with a little more.
I will be calling a few eaton dealers tommorrow to see if someone can't work out a good price for the part I need.
Dozer
Hey Dozer, what is the max auxilary hydraulic flow and pressure on your machine? I would imagine that your ASV has a high flow system, doesn't it? I just would not want to see you HP limited by your hydraulic system.
 

SkidRoe

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Hey Dozer, what is the max auxilary hydraulic flow and pressure on your machine? I would imagine that your ASV has a high flow system, doesn't it? I just would not want to see you HP limited by your hydraulic system.
Okay, since you say you have 55 Hp on hand, you have the high flow system (30 gpm @ 3200 psi).
This motor should do the job, providing you don't push it too hard:
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2156122817443706&item=9-072-1064&catname=hydraulic
According to my calculations (assuming an 85% efficient drive) it should top out at 614 rpm.
 
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dozer

dozer

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Mar 26, 2009
Messages
126
Okay, since you say you have 55 Hp on hand, you have the high flow system (30 gpm @ 3200 psi).
This motor should do the job, providing you don't push it too hard:
https://www.surpluscenter.com/item.asp?UID=2156122817443706&item=9-072-1064&catname=hydraulic
According to my calculations (assuming an 85% efficient drive) it should top out at 614 rpm.
You have to figure the HP at the continous use not the Intermittent use. At the Continous use it ony figures out to 30hp. And then you will have to use a larger pulley on the motor to get the speed up to 540.
From what I have read from searching around on here if you max out these hydraulic motors they won't last long and on a snowblower it is going to have to run hard and long.
thanks for looking though I am still tempted to try just because it is cheaper.
Lucas
 

coreya3212

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Feb 4, 2009
Messages
257
You have to figure the HP at the continous use not the Intermittent use. At the Continous use it ony figures out to 30hp. And then you will have to use a larger pulley on the motor to get the speed up to 540.
From what I have read from searching around on here if you max out these hydraulic motors they won't last long and on a snowblower it is going to have to run hard and long.
thanks for looking though I am still tempted to try just because it is cheaper.
Lucas
70 bucks was cheap. This is where Hi flow and PSI can be a negative I guess. My bobcat runs 12 gpm max and I think 2200 PSI and a lot more and smaller hyd motors handle it easily. I run the auger off it, which is a easy because it is reduced so much that half idle while drilling a hole is plenty of speed for the bit, but it does stall the bit if I get to aggressive. To run my rough cut mower, I have to wind it up pretty good, but it seems to handle that fine as well. Problems with th emower have been bending the front single guide wheel all to hell. Its made to follow a tractor and the agility and movement capable with the skid steer is too much strain on the body of the mower. gonna have to beef it up. I also have a 3 pt cement mixer that I mounted its own motor to it and havent tried it full of cement yet. My 3 pt adaptor has the hyd motor mounted in line with the 3 pick up points so rather than cut the drive shaft to nothing, i put a motor on it itself. This is all for personal use around the acreage mind you. If I were a pro contracting, I would do any of this stuff half arsed like I do. good luck.
 
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dozer

dozer

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Mar 26, 2009
Messages
126
70 bucks was cheap. This is where Hi flow and PSI can be a negative I guess. My bobcat runs 12 gpm max and I think 2200 PSI and a lot more and smaller hyd motors handle it easily. I run the auger off it, which is a easy because it is reduced so much that half idle while drilling a hole is plenty of speed for the bit, but it does stall the bit if I get to aggressive. To run my rough cut mower, I have to wind it up pretty good, but it seems to handle that fine as well. Problems with th emower have been bending the front single guide wheel all to hell. Its made to follow a tractor and the agility and movement capable with the skid steer is too much strain on the body of the mower. gonna have to beef it up. I also have a 3 pt cement mixer that I mounted its own motor to it and havent tried it full of cement yet. My 3 pt adaptor has the hyd motor mounted in line with the 3 pick up points so rather than cut the drive shaft to nothing, i put a motor on it itself. This is all for personal use around the acreage mind you. If I were a pro contracting, I would do any of this stuff half arsed like I do. good luck.
Ok today I got the old 3-point system cut off. I ground it down and got the old gear box taken off.
Now that I have the Attachment plate all I need to do is decide on which motor I would like to use. I have some leeway if the RPMS of the hydro motor are faster than 540 as I can use a smaller sprocket. The problem is I cannot use a larger sprocket.
I also semi-mounted the attachment plate so you can start too see what it will look like. I am heading over to a local welding shop tommorrow to look at some different ideas for a spout turning mechanism.

Blower PTO removed blower Back blower side Blower top
 

leaddog

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Dec 17, 2009
Messages
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Ok today I got the old 3-point system cut off. I ground it down and got the old gear box taken off.
Now that I have the Attachment plate all I need to do is decide on which motor I would like to use. I have some leeway if the RPMS of the hydro motor are faster than 540 as I can use a smaller sprocket. The problem is I cannot use a larger sprocket.
I also semi-mounted the attachment plate so you can start too see what it will look like. I am heading over to a local welding shop tommorrow to look at some different ideas for a spout turning mechanism.
Looking good. Just a couple thoughts. I now see that you are not going to be going through the old gear box. Make sure the old box was 1 to 1. With a single stage it might have been a step up box so the rpms would be off. Also I have a 7ft 2stage blower that I run with my 40hp tractor with the 1000rpm pto. I just run it at lower engine rpms to keep about 540 at the blower. With 50hp available I think you can run a motor at a higher rpm and just adjust your engine speed down to get your rpms. It's ALOT quieter and more fuel efficiant. leaddog
 
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dozer

dozer

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Mar 26, 2009
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Looking good. Just a couple thoughts. I now see that you are not going to be going through the old gear box. Make sure the old box was 1 to 1. With a single stage it might have been a step up box so the rpms would be off. Also I have a 7ft 2stage blower that I run with my 40hp tractor with the 1000rpm pto. I just run it at lower engine rpms to keep about 540 at the blower. With 50hp available I think you can run a motor at a higher rpm and just adjust your engine speed down to get your rpms. It's ALOT quieter and more fuel efficiant. leaddog
Yes the Gear box was a 1 to 1 and the motor will run at 540 RPMs and produce 30hp @ 2200 RPMs. If all my calculations were correct. It should be very effecient.
This weekend I got the adjustable skidshoes on and started making the polycarbonate pieces to get the middle section of the blower almost touching the back so I can make the blower as effecient as possible.
thanks for the compliments. Both the main motor and the motor for the spout show up next week so I can get started with the mounting.
Dozer
 
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dozer

dozer

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Mar 26, 2009
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Yes the Gear box was a 1 to 1 and the motor will run at 540 RPMs and produce 30hp @ 2200 RPMs. If all my calculations were correct. It should be very effecient.
This weekend I got the adjustable skidshoes on and started making the polycarbonate pieces to get the middle section of the blower almost touching the back so I can make the blower as effecient as possible.
thanks for the compliments. Both the main motor and the motor for the spout show up next week so I can get started with the mounting.
Dozer
I took my measurements for the motor mounting brackets tonight and will go get the steel tommorrow and have them use their plasma to cut the circles I will need to mount the motor through. I will drill the bolt holes.
I am running into a problem with couplers. I found out that standard 1/2" Couplers are usually only rated to 20GPM and I need to find me some 3/4 or 1" Couplers that will take 32 GPM. I didn't even think that couplers didn't all run enough flow but a valuable and expensive lesson will be learned I believe. Beyond that I just can't figure out how to do the spout turning mechanism and may just keep using the rope system that is on there now to save myself the headache.
Will post pics once the motor is mounted and then again when I get the plate attached.
Dozer
 
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dozer

dozer

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I took my measurements for the motor mounting brackets tonight and will go get the steel tommorrow and have them use their plasma to cut the circles I will need to mount the motor through. I will drill the bolt holes.
I am running into a problem with couplers. I found out that standard 1/2" Couplers are usually only rated to 20GPM and I need to find me some 3/4 or 1" Couplers that will take 32 GPM. I didn't even think that couplers didn't all run enough flow but a valuable and expensive lesson will be learned I believe. Beyond that I just can't figure out how to do the spout turning mechanism and may just keep using the rope system that is on there now to save myself the headache.
Will post pics once the motor is mounted and then again when I get the plate attached.
Dozer
OK got the mounting hole and all the hardware to fit it. Got it how I want it and took it back apart. I will take the plates to my local welder to have them welded and reinforced and get myself two 6' pieces of High Pressure 1" Hose with elbows to get it around the motor and up to the links.
Then I have to get a few High Flow couplers and she will at least be able to run.
Also please notice my new adjustable skids. Also need finish welding but should work very well.

Motor Mount Side Motor Mount Front Motor Mount top
 

SkidRoe

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Dec 10, 2009
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1,885
OK got the mounting hole and all the hardware to fit it. Got it how I want it and took it back apart. I will take the plates to my local welder to have them welded and reinforced and get myself two 6' pieces of High Pressure 1" Hose with elbows to get it around the motor and up to the links.
Then I have to get a few High Flow couplers and she will at least be able to run.
Also please notice my new adjustable skids. Also need finish welding but should work very well.
Dozer, you will generate a significant flow restriction using 2 elbows coming out of your motor. You would be better off having hoses made up with 90 degree JIC end fittings on the motor end and installing JIC adapters into your motor to connect them. What size hoses are you going with?
 

SkidRoe

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Dec 10, 2009
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Dozer, you will generate a significant flow restriction using 2 elbows coming out of your motor. You would be better off having hoses made up with 90 degree JIC end fittings on the motor end and installing JIC adapters into your motor to connect them. What size hoses are you going with?
Dozer, I am not trying to burst your bubble, please take any comments that I make as a concerned fellow gearhead that has seen more than his fair share of machinery fail over the years (and then have to pick-up the pieces and try to get it working again).
One other thing that I noticed, I would be careful connecting the motor to the drive shaft with a keyed coupler. If there is even the slightest amount of run-out in that shaft you could take the bearings out of the motor, or even worse, break the motor off of it's mounts (I cringe to think about the amount of carnage that could create). I notice that the original blower had a U-joint locacted in the same position between the shaft and the gearbox. Is there any way that you could work that back into your design?
Other than that, it looks really good!! The adjustable feet are a great feature, especially if you are going to be blowing out a gravel driveway. I bet you can't wait to sink it into a snow drift!! Keep the progress reports coming!!
 
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