Morphodite 520

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Tuned

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I'd try a puller again and hit the shaft, hhopefully it will pop free, unlike the nightmare antfarmer spoke of. His was loctited on... It was enver going to come off in one piece.
After a generous dose of penetrant, I actually broke my puller three times! The first time, a Chinese metric bolt broke. So I replaced it with all 1/4 bolts which were slightly larger. I still broke a bolt (and yes I tapped it with a rather large hammer). Replaced said bolt and finally broke the puller.
Next up is a new puller and some heat. I will make a sort of 'u shield' to slide behind the gear to keep the heat out of the seal area. I'll put some pressure on and hit it carefully with the torch. It always worked on my sled clutches like that. Hopefully it just POPS.
 

Mikefromcny

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I'd try a puller again and hit the shaft, hhopefully it will pop free, unlike the nightmare antfarmer spoke of. His was loctited on... It was enver going to come off in one piece.
Harbor freight makes a 12 ton hydraulic 3 jaw gear puller, works awesome. I bought it to pull a flange off a genie scissor lift drive motor at work.
 

antfarmer2

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Antfarmer, it may come to that. Did the seal come out easily?
Very easy just pulled the snap ring then carefuly drill two small starter holes in the seal used two screws and a block of wood drill two holes in the wood and used as a puller to put the seal back get it started then put the snap ring in and work it in till it snaps
 

antfarmer2

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Very easy just pulled the snap ring then carefuly drill two small starter holes in the seal used two screws and a block of wood drill two holes in the wood and used as a puller to put the seal back get it started then put the snap ring in and work it in till it snaps
I can't tell by your pic if yours has a snap ring hope it not put in from the inside
 
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I can't tell by your pic if yours has a snap ring hope it not put in from the inside
Thanks for the advice. You guys so rock. There is such a thing as karma in this world. I have been helping newbies to the pontoon world (and boats in general) for years. Very active on a pontoon forum. So it is awesome for me to come here-where much of this stuff is uncharted waters for me, so to speak, and find like minded people willing to help out.
 
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Thanks for the advice. You guys so rock. There is such a thing as karma in this world. I have been helping newbies to the pontoon world (and boats in general) for years. Very active on a pontoon forum. So it is awesome for me to come here-where much of this stuff is uncharted waters for me, so to speak, and find like minded people willing to help out.
Well, I got 'er did. I heated that gear using an aluminum heat shield behind it to try to keep it from migrating so badly into the pump. At the same time I had a helper drip water behind the shield to take even more heat away.
About the time that I was thinking of giving up....POING! That sucker jumped off the shaft and just about into my lap. Which brings me to my next questions. Here is what it now looks like:
 photo 20141112_071512.jpg

There are TWO snap rings that I can see. When I went to the Bobcat parts lookup, this is what I get (I have labeled in red what the parts list says each part is):
 photo pumpshaft.jpg

It looks to me like the seal installs from the inside...crud. The two items listed as 'ring' are the two snap rings that I see. I assume that they bear respectively on the inner and outer races of the bearing. If this is the case, then I'm gonna take my chances and dig no further. Just fill it up when the time comes and pray for no leaks.
Thoughts from any of you gearheads?
 

antfarmer2

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Well, I got 'er did. I heated that gear using an aluminum heat shield behind it to try to keep it from migrating so badly into the pump. At the same time I had a helper drip water behind the shield to take even more heat away.
About the time that I was thinking of giving up....POING! That sucker jumped off the shaft and just about into my lap. Which brings me to my next questions. Here is what it now looks like:

There are TWO snap rings that I can see. When I went to the Bobcat parts lookup, this is what I get (I have labeled in red what the parts list says each part is):

It looks to me like the seal installs from the inside...crud. The two items listed as 'ring' are the two snap rings that I see. I assume that they bear respectively on the inner and outer races of the bearing. If this is the case, then I'm gonna take my chances and dig no further. Just fill it up when the time comes and pray for no leaks.
Thoughts from any of you gearheads?
I am with you on this one!!!!!
 

Tazza

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I am with you on this one!!!!!
I knew there was a model of pump that you needed to disassemble to change the seal, it appears this is one of them.
I too wouldn't bother going deeper unless the bearing felt bad. Is it still tight and smooth?
 

shankatank58

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I knew there was a model of pump that you needed to disassemble to change the seal, it appears this is one of them.
I too wouldn't bother going deeper unless the bearing felt bad. Is it still tight and smooth?
I understand your reluctance to go farther, but.................if it were me, I'd have to remove the snap rings and pop the bearing out. That way you can check and clean the bearing and have a look-see behind it. Just maybe the spacer and seal will still come out this end.
Seems strange to put a bearing outside of a seal.
 

antfarmer2

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I understand your reluctance to go farther, but.................if it were me, I'd have to remove the snap rings and pop the bearing out. That way you can check and clean the bearing and have a look-see behind it. Just maybe the spacer and seal will still come out this end.
Seems strange to put a bearing outside of a seal.
I would be afraid of disturbing the seal
 
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I would be afraid of disturbing the seal
Verified in manual. Seal from the inside. The bearing procedure also involved removing the pump and then driving the shaft out of it. What an odd arrangement. I don't want to take a chance on buggering up that bearing. I'm just gonna pull the snap rings and squash some grease in. If the bearing feels like it wants to fall out, then fine. Otherwise I'll just have to keep an eye on it for leaks when I fill and fire. Today I'm gonna take my bag full of new coupling pieces to the machinist (50 miles away). I'm sure he's going to slowly shake his head in disbelief. Hopefully we can work out a game plan to build the new adaptor.
 

antfarmer2

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Verified in manual. Seal from the inside. The bearing procedure also involved removing the pump and then driving the shaft out of it. What an odd arrangement. I don't want to take a chance on buggering up that bearing. I'm just gonna pull the snap rings and squash some grease in. If the bearing feels like it wants to fall out, then fine. Otherwise I'll just have to keep an eye on it for leaks when I fill and fire. Today I'm gonna take my bag full of new coupling pieces to the machinist (50 miles away). I'm sure he's going to slowly shake his head in disbelief. Hopefully we can work out a game plan to build the new adaptor.
Mine has a hub that slides over the spline with ujoints.........bring him some beer
 
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Mine has a hub that slides over the spline with ujoints.........bring him some beer
I gotta save the beer for me, as I don't want to slow him down. Hardcore logging season hits in a week or two and that shop will be inundated with busted crap. Hoping to beat the rush.
I have a plan already, but he may have better ideas.
 
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I gotta save the beer for me, as I don't want to slow him down. Hardcore logging season hits in a week or two and that shop will be inundated with busted crap. Hoping to beat the rush.
I have a plan already, but he may have better ideas.
Things are looking up! The pump shaft felt sold and turned freely but not too freely. So I filled it up with new fluid, made a jig and spun it with a large drill. I gave it a couple hundred turns and it didn't leak a drop.
My machine work got done way sooner that expected as well. I was getting frustrated as all the Yank machinists were in woods deer hunting. So on a whim, I called a shop on the Canadian side (I live right on the border). The guy said "bring it over, eh". I dropped the parts off at eight in the morning and he called at noon to say it was done. Awesome! He did a nice job too.
 photo Newcoupling.jpg

The only hurdle of any consequence I have left is to get the small gear (new) back on that pump shaft. I test fit it and it is really tight. Does anyone know any tricks on how to do this? Can I just heat it with a torch without hurting the temper? Then gently hammer it on while hot? Or should I consider a little emery on the shaft and or file on the key and keyway?
 

antfarmer2

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Things are looking up! The pump shaft felt sold and turned freely but not too freely. So I filled it up with new fluid, made a jig and spun it with a large drill. I gave it a couple hundred turns and it didn't leak a drop.
My machine work got done way sooner that expected as well. I was getting frustrated as all the Yank machinists were in woods deer hunting. So on a whim, I called a shop on the Canadian side (I live right on the border). The guy said "bring it over, eh". I dropped the parts off at eight in the morning and he called at noon to say it was done. Awesome! He did a nice job too.
The only hurdle of any consequence I have left is to get the small gear (new) back on that pump shaft. I test fit it and it is really tight. Does anyone know any tricks on how to do this? Can I just heat it with a torch without hurting the temper? Then gently hammer it on while hot? Or should I consider a little emery on the shaft and or file on the key and keyway?
I belive it is on a taper since you are a bit north the shaft is cold I would just heat the piece in the oven on high clean it up a bit and don't use red locktight on the shaft a little blue on the nut or bolt would be good......get the engine lined up really good the better the longer this will last
 
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I belive it is on a taper since you are a bit north the shaft is cold I would just heat the piece in the oven on high clean it up a bit and don't use red locktight on the shaft a little blue on the nut or bolt would be good......get the engine lined up really good the better the longer this will last
That sounds like a good reasonable game plan. I can allow the garage to go cold so the shaft is shrunk up a bit too. The engine gear appears to be a perfect fit, snug but no heating needed.
Then it is just a whole bunch of wiring improvements and some cooling fan modification/improvements before install. I'm feeling pretty good about this one.
Thanks SO MUCH for all the advice guys. I will make sure to pay it forward over at my home forum www.pontoonforums.com. If any of you are 'tooners', come pay me a visit over there!
 

antfarmer2

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That sounds like a good reasonable game plan. I can allow the garage to go cold so the shaft is shrunk up a bit too. The engine gear appears to be a perfect fit, snug but no heating needed.
Then it is just a whole bunch of wiring improvements and some cooling fan modification/improvements before install. I'm feeling pretty good about this one.
Thanks SO MUCH for all the advice guys. I will make sure to pay it forward over at my home forum www.pontoonforums.com. If any of you are 'tooners', come pay me a visit over there!
Good job will keep you in mind next time I back my cat into the pond lol maybe I need some toons
 
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Good job will keep you in mind next time I back my cat into the pond lol maybe I need some toons
You back your cat into the pond often? My big triple tube might float it. I've hauled a complete kitchen and laundry room with it. That's the beauty of the plastic chairs. Just throw 'em on shore and I have a football field :)
 
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