It was about 2 years back, so the price has probably gone up since. They are called metro fluid power from memory, i dealt with Steve I have the e-mail address somewhere. If you are after contact info, look up my profile and i will look the details up for you.
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Thanks Taz I found them on line.
I think I'll try putting a finish on the plates that are in the pumps and motors first and if it helps then buy new.
Do you guys think the surface on the pistons in the rotating group will need to be touched too or just the plates?
I doubt you will have to or be able to do anything with the pistons, they are tremendously hard. The only thing I remember having troiuble with is the three little pins that go on the shaft, use some heavy grease to hold them in place while you assemble it. if you don't have a good ,complete exploded drawing take lots of pictures as you disassemble.
I agree with Jerry, those 3 pins are the worst part, but some heavy grease holds them in place prety well. The newer rotating groups have a steel band that holds them in place for you.
Have a look at the bottom of the cassette that holds the pistons. This may need a touch up.
Langloim - have you ever seen one marked? I can see if the wear plate was trashed it could have done enough damage to mark it.
The ones i have touched up, i ran the rotating group on some wet and dry, not a mark to be seen. I have only done 3 or 4, so that is hardly a good test group is it?
We pulled one of the drive motors yesterday and took it apart. Turns out it had been replaced at some point since it had a tag on it that said remanufactured.
The plate in the yoke where the pistons ride looked perfect. The bottom of the cassette looked good but the end plate of the housing had a couple small scratches. The motors are newer looking with better blue paint on them and looks like the other one was probably replaced at the same time.
We put it back together and we're going to tear into the pumps today.
A question and concern we have is that the two speed lever/linkage is not hooked up. The levers on the motors are connected together with a rod and a couple heim joints but we were unable to get them to move like they were shifting into a different speed range. Even when we pulled the motor apart we couldn't get it to rotate the yoke inside because of a lock bolt that holds it in place. When we pulled that bolt out the yoke had lots of movement. The service manual says that lock bolt is for adjusting the neutral on the motor. We are not understanding how this two speed works and are concerned that maybe our issue is that we're in a neutral of some sort.
The motors are the exact same housings as the pumps and the internals look to be the same in the parts book with many of the part numbers being the same. One difference is that the pumps don't have this lock bolt and the yokes in them are free to travel a wide range of motion which understandably is necessary. We would love to see someone else's machine or pictures to see how much travel these two speed motors are supposed to have. Any enlightenment on this will be greatly appreciated.
SkidRoe
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- Dec 10, 2009
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- 1,885
BTW - Do you have a service manual? If not, you should get one. This would likely answer alot of your questions.
Yes Skid it's an M700 and they are supposed to be a two speed (hi and low) transmission.
I haven't been able to run it enough to really know but this one must be just a single speed since the lever and linkage isn't hooked up.
And yes I do have PDFs of the complete Service manual, Operators manual and Parts manual for the M700 and also some of the manuals for my 630 thanks to the fine members here on the forum.
This M700 has a lever beside the seat that should be attached by linkage and a bellcrank to the hydro motors.
The motors are the same as the pumps and have what I want to call trunnions attached to the yoke where the swash plate rides and when the lever is moved it changes the pitch of the swash plate just like the steering levers do the pumps.
I would like to know how much movement there should be at the swash plates in the motors because we don't get any movement.
Yes I've seen a couple only like .005" groove but still a pressure loss path.
HanSolo
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- Sep 11, 2012
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- 299
I've got a M700 with the ROPS off and engine out for rebuild. I can post photos of the two speed linkage if that's helpful. However, I don't plan on getting into the motors or pumps at this moment. The hydraulics are working well and I don't want to monkey things up LOL. Also, when you change speeds on this machine there's no neutral in between low and high. It simply ramps up as if you could push the control sticks greater.
So we pulled the hydrostatic pumps and they have a plate on them that says they've been remanufactured too.
Took them apart and they look perfect. No scratches or nicks in the wear plate at all.
So now we know that the complete hydrostatic system has been replaced at some point but still don't know what the cause of our issue is.
When we broke the hydro lines loose there was no fluid in them to speak of and reading the service manual for the hydraulic system it tells how to bleed air out of the system like the hydraulic pump has lost it's prime.
Who can tell me about this procedure and could this be our issue?
If the vane hydraulic pump had lost it's prime and it was just basically pumping air you wouldn't think it would do anything at all. The manual doesn't go into what it will do if it happens just how to reprime it.
So we got the M700 back together and swapped out the filters while we were at it.
We poured oil into the tee at the top of the vane pump and she drives great. WooHoo
Now we don't know if all we needed to do was prime a pump or if the filter was at fault.
The lower filter is supposed to be changed through a small access hole underneath but it was on so tight there would have been no way that was going to happen. We were lucky to get it off while the pumps were out of our way and we could get at it from above.
I've asked a few guys about the pump losing it's prime and none have ever heard about this. Anyone have any insight on this?
Now to get on the 720 we just picked up.
Good to hear it's working. The only way it can loose prime is if there is a leak somewhere. If the system is sealed and full of oil, there is no way for it to loose prime, just like a diesel fuel system.
Are there any oil leaks? they can allow air in.
No there are no oil leaks in the system. A cylinder seeps but who has a machine that doesn't?
The losing prime issue must be a real issue with these models because there's quite a procedure on it in the Service manual and also in the Operators manual.
