LX885 transmission charge pressure light

[jgeletko79]

Hey all, I'm hoping someone can help me here. My battery was completely dead yesterday. Machine wouldn't do anything. Connected a jump starter to the battery, & I noticed the transmission charge pressure light on the EIC was on before I sat in the seat or turned the key on. I'm assuming that whatever's causing the light to stay on is what drained the battery. If I understand the warning light correctly, it's from the hydrostatic pressure sensor. What I don't understand is why it would remain on w/ the machine off. I don't want to randomly change parts, so where should I begin? Is that indicative of a bad sensor or what? I hate electrical problems by the way.

 

[Mike10]

It is not the sensor. If the light is still on, then unplug the seat harness from the main harness and see it that puts out the light. The connector is on the backside of the seat mounting plate.

 

[jgeletko79]

It is not the sensor. If the light is still on, then unplug the seat harness from the main harness and see it that puts out the light. The connector is on the backside of the seat mounting plate.

Hey Mike, I tried unplugging that harness. Had no effect on the light. I don't know if this is incidental or related, but I think my starter is going bad also. When I tried starting it I could hear the starter relay clicking, but the starter wouldn't do anything. I tapped on it a few times, then it fired up. Let me know if you have any other suggestions. Thanks.

 

[Mike10]

Hey Mike, I tried unplugging that harness. Had no effect on the light. I don't know if this is incidental or related, but I think my starter is going bad also. When I tried starting it I could hear the starter relay clicking, but the starter wouldn't do anything. I tapped on it a few times, then it fired up. Let me know if you have any other suggestions. Thanks.

I am pasting a copy of a post on how to check power at the instrument panel. The longest connector is the one you will check. Without sitting in the seat and the key off, see if you have power at the #14 terminal, R/W wire, at all times. Check if there is power at any other terminal on that connector. There should not be any other terminal with power. Now check if you have continuity between terminal #13 and ground. Be sure you have a good ground. Next turn the key to the on position. Now you should have power to the #14 and # 12 terminals and no others. Sit in the seat and now you should have power at the #14, #12, and #4 terminals. Fasten the seat belt and you should have pawer at #14, #12, #11, and #4 terminals. When you turn to start, you should have power at #14, #12, #11, #10, and #4..... If all this checks out, then try and find an instrument panel you can plug into your machine and see if it works correctly.

 

[jgeletko79]

I am pasting a copy of a post on how to check power at the instrument panel. The longest connector is the one you will check. Without sitting in the seat and the key off, see if you have power at the #14 terminal, R/W wire, at all times. Check if there is power at any other terminal on that connector. There should not be any other terminal with power. Now check if you have continuity between terminal #13 and ground. Be sure you have a good ground. Next turn the key to the on position. Now you should have power to the #14 and # 12 terminals and no others. Sit in the seat and now you should have power at the #14, #12, and #4 terminals. Fasten the seat belt and you should have pawer at #14, #12, #11, and #4 terminals. When you turn to start, you should have power at #14, #12, #11, #10, and #4..... If all this checks out, then try and find an instrument panel you can plug into your machine and see if it works correctly.

I'll give it a shot tomorrow. Based on everything you said, I assume that's the wiring from the P2 harness on the board. Hoping it all checks out, cause I'm pretty sure I don't have any spare instrument panels laying around!

 

[jgeletko79]

I am pasting a copy of a post on how to check power at the instrument panel. The longest connector is the one you will check. Without sitting in the seat and the key off, see if you have power at the #14 terminal, R/W wire, at all times. Check if there is power at any other terminal on that connector. There should not be any other terminal with power. Now check if you have continuity between terminal #13 and ground. Be sure you have a good ground. Next turn the key to the on position. Now you should have power to the #14 and # 12 terminals and no others. Sit in the seat and now you should have power at the #14, #12, and #4 terminals. Fasten the seat belt and you should have pawer at #14, #12, #11, and #4 terminals. When you turn to start, you should have power at #14, #12, #11, #10, and #4..... If all this checks out, then try and find an instrument panel you can plug into your machine and see if it works correctly.

Here's what I have: Power @ 14. Good ground @ 13. When I turn the key on, I have power @ 14,12, & 5. I never got power @ 4 when I sit in seat. I'm wondering if previous owner bypassed that for whatever reason. I can start the machine w/o sitting in seat. Anyway, back to test. When seat belt is fastened, I get power @ 14, 12, 11, & 5. When I turned key to start & touched 10, alarm would continuously beep. I had to turn key off to reset it. To sum it up, 5 should be fuel solenoid. I don't know @ what point it should get power. You never mentioned it. Also, I never had power @ 4 or 10. Hope this makes sense.

 

[Mike10]

Here's what I have: Power @ 14. Good ground @ 13. When I turn the key on, I have power @ 14,12, & 5. I never got power @ 4 when I sit in seat. I'm wondering if previous owner bypassed that for whatever reason. I can start the machine w/o sitting in seat. Anyway, back to test. When seat belt is fastened, I get power @ 14, 12, 11, & 5. When I turned key to start & touched 10, alarm would continuously beep. I had to turn key off to reset it. To sum it up, 5 should be fuel solenoid. I don't know @ what point it should get power. You never mentioned it. Also, I never had power @ 4 or 10. Hope this makes sense.

You should have power at 5 when you turn the key to the on position. The copied portion of the post came from a post dealing with problems with the safety circuits so I left 5 off the list in that post and did not catch it when I copied it here.......... You should have power at 10 when the engine is cranking..........A bypassed seat switch will send power continuously to the panel at pin 4. You need to see what has been bypassed and why you are not getting power to pin 4...... You should also have power at pin three when you are sitting in the seat with the seat belt fastened and the key in the on position. Pin 3 goes to the control valve solenoids to unlock the pedals. Pin two is for the glow plugs so you should have at least momentary power there when you turn the key on. I believe once you correct the problem at pin 4 the light will go out.......Are your foot pedal ever locked?

 

[jgeletko79]

You should have power at 5 when you turn the key to the on position. The copied portion of the post came from a post dealing with problems with the safety circuits so I left 5 off the list in that post and did not catch it when I copied it here.......... You should have power at 10 when the engine is cranking..........A bypassed seat switch will send power continuously to the panel at pin 4. You need to see what has been bypassed and why you are not getting power to pin 4...... You should also have power at pin three when you are sitting in the seat with the seat belt fastened and the key in the on position. Pin 3 goes to the control valve solenoids to unlock the pedals. Pin two is for the glow plugs so you should have at least momentary power there when you turn the key on. I believe once you correct the problem at pin 4 the light will go out.......Are your foot pedal ever locked?

I'll see what I can come up with tomorrow. To answer your question, the foot pedals lock when the seat belt is undone or when I start it in service mode. Thanks again.

 

[jgeletko79]

You should have power at 5 when you turn the key to the on position. The copied portion of the post came from a post dealing with problems with the safety circuits so I left 5 off the list in that post and did not catch it when I copied it here.......... You should have power at 10 when the engine is cranking..........A bypassed seat switch will send power continuously to the panel at pin 4. You need to see what has been bypassed and why you are not getting power to pin 4...... You should also have power at pin three when you are sitting in the seat with the seat belt fastened and the key in the on position. Pin 3 goes to the control valve solenoids to unlock the pedals. Pin two is for the glow plugs so you should have at least momentary power there when you turn the key on. I believe once you correct the problem at pin 4 the light will go out.......Are your foot pedal ever locked?

Hey Mike, I have power @ pin 4. The wires for the switch in the seat are spliced together bypassing the seat switch. I didn't check w/ the run/service switch in run yesterday. The book says when the switch is in the service position, power stops there. Once I put it in the run position, I had power @ 4. Here's the funny part: the light is no longer on. I did nothing to correct the problem. I don't think it's fixed. I think that whole block of lights are out. The seat belt light should be on after the EIC's self test & it's not. I think the EIC is getting power in all the right spots from the P2 harness. Any way to test the board itself or maybe I'm getting ahead of myself?

 

[Mike10]

Hey Mike, I have power @ pin 4. The wires for the switch in the seat are spliced together bypassing the seat switch. I didn't check w/ the run/service switch in run yesterday. The book says when the switch is in the service position, power stops there. Once I put it in the run position, I had power @ 4. Here's the funny part: the light is no longer on. I did nothing to correct the problem. I don't think it's fixed. I think that whole block of lights are out. The seat belt light should be on after the EIC's self test & it's not. I think the EIC is getting power in all the right spots from the P2 harness. Any way to test the board itself or maybe I'm getting ahead of myself?

I would first disconnect the spliced wires, have service/run switch in the run position. Have the key in the off position. Reconnect the spliced wires and the instrument panel should light up and go through a self test. After the self test the park light and the seat belt light should be on. Fasten the seat belt and the seat belt and park brake light should go out. Checking the panel any other way will give false indications

 

[jgeletko79]

I would first disconnect the spliced wires, have service/run switch in the run position. Have the key in the off position. Reconnect the spliced wires and the instrument panel should light up and go through a self test. After the self test the park light and the seat belt light should be on. Fasten the seat belt and the seat belt and park brake light should go out. Checking the panel any other way will give false indications

I picked up a new seat harness today. Now I have power @ all the pins @ the appropriate time. I didn't realize the previous owner had the seat switch bypassed. When I bought it, he showed me his start up sequence, & he used the service position of the run/service switch as a "off". Anyway, that aspect is back to factory. When I sit on the seat now, the board goes through it's sequence. I get all 8's in the character display, the fuel gauge, air filter condition light, & where the manual says should be a blank I have what looks like a engine coolant light. Once that sequence is over, only the character display & fuel gauge are lit up. At no point are the parking brake or seat belt lights on. Hope I'm making myself clear.

 

[Mike10]

I picked up a new seat harness today. Now I have power @ all the pins @ the appropriate time. I didn't realize the previous owner had the seat switch bypassed. When I bought it, he showed me his start up sequence, & he used the service position of the run/service switch as a "off". Anyway, that aspect is back to factory. When I sit on the seat now, the board goes through it's sequence. I get all 8's in the character display, the fuel gauge, air filter condition light, & where the manual says should be a blank I have what looks like a engine coolant light. Once that sequence is over, only the character display & fuel gauge are lit up. At no point are the parking brake or seat belt lights on. Hope I'm making myself clear.

The lines which outline the lights on the face plate of the panel are either gold or silver. On the early machines the lines were silver. These panels were subject to failure because of corrosion. These panels would do strange things when they were failing.

 

[jgeletko79]

The lines which outline the lights on the face plate of the panel are either gold or silver. On the early machines the lines were silver. These panels were subject to failure because of corrosion. These panels would do strange things when they were failing.

Of course mine has the silver lines. Do the dealers have a computer or something to test the board? I'm guessing not. Sounds like I have to track down a known good EIC. May take a while for that. I'll post back once everything's squared away. Thanks again for all the information.

 

[jgeletko79]

Of course mine has the silver lines. Do the dealers have a computer or something to test the board? I'm guessing not. Sounds like I have to track down a known good EIC. May take a while for that. I'll post back once everything's squared away. Thanks again for all the information.

Just wanted to follow up here. I put a new starter and new EIC in 2 evenings ago, and everything seems fine. When I pulled the old starter off, one of the bolts was missing. I'm sure that couldn't have helped anything. It's pretty heavy to be supported by 1 bolt. 2 if you count the one connecting the ground wires. It was cheaper to buy a new one than have the original rebuilt.
I was pretty confident the EIC was bad, but was nervous about spending $720 on something I wasn't 100% sure about. Anyway, everythings working the way it should be. Thank you again, Jeremy.

 

[Tazza]

Just wanted to follow up here. I put a new starter and new EIC in 2 evenings ago, and everything seems fine. When I pulled the old starter off, one of the bolts was missing. I'm sure that couldn't have helped anything. It's pretty heavy to be supported by 1 bolt. 2 if you count the one connecting the ground wires. It was cheaper to buy a new one than have the original rebuilt.
I was pretty confident the EIC was bad, but was nervous about spending $720 on something I wasn't 100% sure about. Anyway, everythings working the way it should be. Thank you again, Jeremy.

I know what you mean, dropping the cash on somehting like that when there is any chance it may not be at fault.
Glad it's all fixed though