LX885 still won't crank, new seat switch and rocker switch..

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Soiled

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May 22, 2008
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I sit in the EIC powers up, oil pressure light comes and flashes for about 5 times (while in preheat) and then the Hydro Charge Pressure light comes on as well and when I try to start the stop light comes on the unit will not turn over. The oil pressure light is normal (from what I understand) but the hydro isn't. Anyways, I checked all the switches, seatbelt, oil pressure, fuel solenoid etc found one bad seat switch with a bad connnector and I replaced the rocker switch also, just to make sure that wasn't bad. The unit will start and run in "Service" mode when in "Run" the relay on the engine fusebox area just clicks??? It seems as if some safty switch, etc is not working but I can't figure it out. I also went through all the fuses 3 times and nothing burt there. I am going to install new fuses just to make sure. Is there a way to bypass the bucket lock? Thanks for any help
 

skidsteer.ca

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Try changing the relay that clicks, those wear out too. Is it a spdt relay, black about 1" square with 5 blade terminals on it. 7 bucks at auto parts store.
Or at least verify it is transfering power with a test light.
Ken
 
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Soiled

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Try changing the relay that clicks, those wear out too. Is it a spdt relay, black about 1" square with 5 blade terminals on it. 7 bucks at auto parts store.
Or at least verify it is transfering power with a test light.
Ken
5 prong plug replaced with no change, I also changed the fuses, no luck. It seems like some sort of safety switch or bad relay/solenoid..? Well I ended up running a wire from the middle prong of the key switch straight to the starter and bypassing all the saftey crap and it works. My problem isn't fixed but at least I can use it until I can figure it out.... If there is something else I'm overlooking please suggest it. There are 2 relay boxes underneath the outside fuse box that could be bad?
 

Earthwerks Unlimited

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5 prong plug replaced with no change, I also changed the fuses, no luck. It seems like some sort of safety switch or bad relay/solenoid..? Well I ended up running a wire from the middle prong of the key switch straight to the starter and bypassing all the saftey crap and it works. My problem isn't fixed but at least I can use it until I can figure it out.... If there is something else I'm overlooking please suggest it. There are 2 relay boxes underneath the outside fuse box that could be bad?
Are you the same guy that I suggested looking at the diodes?
How about the instrument panel? They do go bad.
 
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Soiled

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Are you the same guy that I suggested looking at the diodes?
How about the instrument panel? They do go bad.
Sorry for the delayed response. Me suggest Diodes? Um I don't think so, someone mentioned that to me but since I don't know where/what diodes are, I haven't checked them/it. Oh yeah, I think the member that suggested diodes was from another country..? I think I tracked down the symptons of a bad Insturment panel and that wasn't it. I rarely use the unit but the way I have it running isn't right and I hate to have a "temporary fix" beome a permanent.
 
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Soiled

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Sorry for the delayed response. Me suggest Diodes? Um I don't think so, someone mentioned that to me but since I don't know where/what diodes are, I haven't checked them/it. Oh yeah, I think the member that suggested diodes was from another country..? I think I tracked down the symptons of a bad Insturment panel and that wasn't it. I rarely use the unit but the way I have it running isn't right and I hate to have a "temporary fix" beome a permanent.
Hey wait, it was you that mentioned the diodes to me! haha..
 

Chip S

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Hey wait, it was you that mentioned the diodes to me! haha..
Just went through this with my LX565. In addition to a battery with a shorted cell, it turns out the connector from the switched ignition wire to the solenoid on the starter was cracked. When I went to test it for voltage while turning the key, the crack would close and show volts. When I reconnected it, the crack would open and I 'd get nothing but a click. Discovered it by putting a jumper directly from the battery to the solenoid and she'd crank. Traced about every wire on the machine before I found that one.
 
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Soiled

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Just went through this with my LX565. In addition to a battery with a shorted cell, it turns out the connector from the switched ignition wire to the solenoid on the starter was cracked. When I went to test it for voltage while turning the key, the crack would close and show volts. When I reconnected it, the crack would open and I 'd get nothing but a click. Discovered it by putting a jumper directly from the battery to the solenoid and she'd crank. Traced about every wire on the machine before I found that one.
Wait, so you had the oil pressure switch and hydro pressure waring lights blinking followed by the "stop" light flasing????
 

Earthwerks Unlimited

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Wait, so you had the oil pressure switch and hydro pressure waring lights blinking followed by the "stop" light flasing????
Soiled, two things: Michigan where I' live IS in THIS country LOL. And the diodes; mine has 2 diodes. It won't run unless they work. Where they are--no idea on yours. On mine they're in the large plastic fuse and relay box in the engine compartment high up on the left fire wall. They are easy to miss as they look like a flat, black, flexible rubber wire connector---think "trailer hitch wire connector"--only it has only two, wires not four. Mine was doing what yours is. They're about $18 at the dealer, but like my other post said I cut mine apart and got a new diode from Radio Shack for 50 cents. Then I used hot melt glue to make a waterproof cover. I made a few extras just in case.
Check all your fuses too---I'd remove all them one at a time, clean the fuse block contacts and install NEW fuses. Everytime my diode blew, a fuse blew too--which I beleive is in the safety system that prevents the boom from moving.
Seat switches: My seat swicth was repalced but it still acted up. Turns out the wires just before the connector in the harness were fatigued from the seat bouncing up and down. I used a toggle switch to replace the seat switch. I use it as theft prevention. And be sure to turn it off or it will drain the battery through the instrument panel glowing.
 

Chip S

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Wait, so you had the oil pressure switch and hydro pressure waring lights blinking followed by the "stop" light flasing????
My eic was doing a lot of weird blinking stuff because a) there was a loose pin connection on the supply terminal to the board and a bad ground on the grounding bolt on the upper right of the ROPS and b) because of the shorted cell in the batt voltage drop was too great during cranking. But, if yours cranks and runs in service mode, then your problem is different. Have you gotten your hands on a wiring diagram?
 

plasmaguy

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Mar 22, 2009
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My eic was doing a lot of weird blinking stuff because a) there was a loose pin connection on the supply terminal to the board and a bad ground on the grounding bolt on the upper right of the ROPS and b) because of the shorted cell in the batt voltage drop was too great during cranking. But, if yours cranks and runs in service mode, then your problem is different. Have you gotten your hands on a wiring diagram?
I too have a LX 885 that is acting up... My symptoms are the following" 1. Error 02 2. Solenoids clicking on panel behind driver LH side. I recall changing the Charge Switch several years ago. This is where I am..... Unit will not start in either "run" or 'service" mode ..... just clicks. There has been mention if lap belt and seat switch failures. I guess we need to "jump" around till problem is located I haven't checked oil levels..... are there limits switches that protect this machine I am un-aware of? I was mixing 4-80# bags of sac-crete when I turned the 885 off. :( Made for some grumpy folks. I do know that with the seat belt fastened and the seat switch working???? the right peddle does work..... Anyway, this is a great forum I appreciate the very helpful info shared! Thanks Tom P
 
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