lift arm down adjustment or stop on a 632

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das220

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Joined
Apr 4, 2009
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12
I have an old 632 that is still running good. but just notest that when i let the arms all the way down with the bucket flat on the ground that the hydrilic line running on the under side of the lift arm is hitting on the flange that runs over the top of the tires. is there an adjustment that can be made to kept the arms from droping that low. this cant be the correct stop location when it was new. it has even but a small dent in the hydralic line and i am know woirred that it will wear a hole in it.
 

mrfixitpaul

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Mar 28, 2009
Messages
365
There isn't an adjustment for the lift arms. Usually you can weld a spacer to the underside of each arm (only doing one side may put a twist in the arms). Then after you have put spacers there you should put a piece of plate steel as a spacer where the middle of the lift arms hit the front of the chaincase.
 

jerry

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Joined
May 3, 2007
Messages
2,043
There isn't an adjustment for the lift arms. Usually you can weld a spacer to the underside of each arm (only doing one side may put a twist in the arms). Then after you have put spacers there you should put a piece of plate steel as a spacer where the middle of the lift arms hit the front of the chaincase.
I looked on my 632 and there is about 1/4 clearance in that spot between lines and fender. I think the place to increase stop thickness would be in the center where the boom rests on the chain case behind the tilt cyl. Otherwise just bend that edge of the fender down a little or make a small cutout there.
 
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das220

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Joined
Apr 4, 2009
Messages
12
I looked on my 632 and there is about 1/4 clearance in that spot between lines and fender. I think the place to increase stop thickness would be in the center where the boom rests on the chain case behind the tilt cyl. Otherwise just bend that edge of the fender down a little or make a small cutout there.
Hi guys! thanks for the input on this problem! but i sure am dumfounded as to why my arms are so much lower then normal. If there is no adjustment for the stop then what has changed? I thought there might of been an adjustment on the cylinder or something. Do you think that the pins on the arms or cylinders chould be worn so much that they chould make that much change? if so which one should I change frist cylinders or arms.
 

Tazza

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Dec 7, 2004
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Hi guys! thanks for the input on this problem! but i sure am dumfounded as to why my arms are so much lower then normal. If there is no adjustment for the stop then what has changed? I thought there might of been an adjustment on the cylinder or something. Do you think that the pins on the arms or cylinders chould be worn so much that they chould make that much change? if so which one should I change frist cylinders or arms.
Wear casuses it. As the arm pivot points wear it allows them to sit lower and they will eventually allow the lines to touch the front. I agree with bending or grinding a little metal off the front of the chassis where the arms sit over. Even adding a little steel plate to the part of the arm that touches the chain case to make the arms sit just a little higher.
 

brettk1

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Joined
Jan 24, 2008
Messages
45
Wear casuses it. As the arm pivot points wear it allows them to sit lower and they will eventually allow the lines to touch the front. I agree with bending or grinding a little metal off the front of the chassis where the arms sit over. Even adding a little steel plate to the part of the arm that touches the chain case to make the arms sit just a little higher.
the pins at the rear of the arms wears primary on the bottom of the pin (closest to the ground) unbolting and rotating 180 degrees may help. it is best to replace with new.
 
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