Is there a trick?

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ancomcabs

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2011
Messages
299
Ready to change the Hydraulic fluid on my 630 and can't get the fill cap off?? Tried spinning, pulling, loosening the screw on the top, spinning again, it spins but kind of tight but does not want to come off. Any suggestions? I have a picture but not sure if we can post pictures on this forum
 

donald73d

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 17, 2011
Messages
345
You need to put the picture on another website on the internet and include a HTML statement for the link in your POST here. I use ImageShack. Its free and it provides you a "COPY" option for several different type of links to the image. You just "PASTE" it on this forum. I use ImageShack strictly for images needed on various forums. I assume it can be used for sharing normal family photos also. It was also mentioned one needs to do the PASTE from IE and not Firefox or Chrome for some odd reason.
 
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ancomcabs

ancomcabs

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2011
Messages
299
You need to put the picture on another website on the internet and include a HTML statement for the link in your POST here. I use ImageShack. Its free and it provides you a "COPY" option for several different type of links to the image. You just "PASTE" it on this forum. I use ImageShack strictly for images needed on various forums. I assume it can be used for sharing normal family photos also. It was also mentioned one needs to do the PASTE from IE and not Firefox or Chrome for some odd reason.
Here is a picture of the filler cap: http://screencast.com/t/5oYG91sYV1D1
 

skidsteer.ca

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
3,853
Here is a picture of the filler cap: http://screencast.com/t/5oYG91sYV1D1
Aalso you need to hit the spacebar once after posting a link to get it to turn blue and be functional. I repaired yours.
Many people don't know this and their link stays non functional on this site.
You can also right click and copy the image once it is hosted online and paste it where you type here and it will diplay in your thread instead of being a clickable link.
If you want to type more after the picture be sure to hit enter key after you paste or all your typing will be on the RH side of the picture.
Skidsteer.ca
2011-11-21_0637.png
 
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ancomcabs

ancomcabs

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2011
Messages
299
Aalso you need to hit the spacebar once after posting a link to get it to turn blue and be functional. I repaired yours.
Many people don't know this and their link stays non functional on this site.
You can also right click and copy the image once it is hosted online and paste it where you type here and it will diplay in your thread instead of being a clickable link.
If you want to type more after the picture be sure to hit enter key after you paste or all your typing will be on the RH side of the picture.
Skidsteer.ca
Thanks for the help, back to the original question any ideas how this cap is supposed to come off?
 

anti

Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Messages
19
I just bought a 630 - still working on it- and the cap on the reservoir just pulls straight off. It's plastic, so maybe it started swelling up. I'd think since you can rotate it, it should pull right off. Watch your knuckles!
 
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ancomcabs

ancomcabs

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 3, 2011
Messages
299
I just bought a 630 - still working on it- and the cap on the reservoir just pulls straight off. It's plastic, so maybe it started swelling up. I'd think since you can rotate it, it should pull right off. Watch your knuckles!
Thanks, does that screw come off first? I've had mine a couple weeks now and for the most part she runs well considering the age. Hour meter was broken and stopped at a little over 1500 so I'm not sure how many actual but to be honest it looks like it could be pretty close. Biggest thing with mine is it looks like it sat under a tree or something for years, still pulling old leaves and debris off it, finding bee's nests etc. Has a lot of rust but I'm just wanting to get it ready for winter, if it runs well and reliable them I'll probably sink some time into it next spring/summer to take things apart and repaint. Have you replaced any pins yet, mine seem pretty tight with the exception of the tilt one that attaches by the bucket, wondering how much trouble it is to change it out? Any idea what the best way to drain the hydraulic fluid is? manual says remove on of the hoses up by the filter? Also seems like the only way to remove the chain case fluid is with a pump, Mines full but looks like it has been contaminated with water
 

mrfixitpaul

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 28, 2009
Messages
365
Thanks, does that screw come off first? I've had mine a couple weeks now and for the most part she runs well considering the age. Hour meter was broken and stopped at a little over 1500 so I'm not sure how many actual but to be honest it looks like it could be pretty close. Biggest thing with mine is it looks like it sat under a tree or something for years, still pulling old leaves and debris off it, finding bee's nests etc. Has a lot of rust but I'm just wanting to get it ready for winter, if it runs well and reliable them I'll probably sink some time into it next spring/summer to take things apart and repaint. Have you replaced any pins yet, mine seem pretty tight with the exception of the tilt one that attaches by the bucket, wondering how much trouble it is to change it out? Any idea what the best way to drain the hydraulic fluid is? manual says remove on of the hoses up by the filter? Also seems like the only way to remove the chain case fluid is with a pump, Mines full but looks like it has been contaminated with water
The screw in the cap should be just to hold the cap together, not holding it to the filler neck.
Most of the older machines had to have the chaincase oil pumped out to change it.
 

anti

Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2011
Messages
19
Thanks, does that screw come off first? I've had mine a couple weeks now and for the most part she runs well considering the age. Hour meter was broken and stopped at a little over 1500 so I'm not sure how many actual but to be honest it looks like it could be pretty close. Biggest thing with mine is it looks like it sat under a tree or something for years, still pulling old leaves and debris off it, finding bee's nests etc. Has a lot of rust but I'm just wanting to get it ready for winter, if it runs well and reliable them I'll probably sink some time into it next spring/summer to take things apart and repaint. Have you replaced any pins yet, mine seem pretty tight with the exception of the tilt one that attaches by the bucket, wondering how much trouble it is to change it out? Any idea what the best way to drain the hydraulic fluid is? manual says remove on of the hoses up by the filter? Also seems like the only way to remove the chain case fluid is with a pump, Mines full but looks like it has been contaminated with water
Don't remove the little screw. My hydraulic and chain case oil were horrible- looked like turkey gravy. Since I needed to replace the seal and bearings on a rear axle, I just ended up bailing out the slurry by hand with a modified plastic container. Since I was working in there I really wiped it out clean with rags too. You may want to consider taking off that cover plate and looking inside too. I think the majority of the water came in through the gasket surface under that plate (that holds the brake pedal). I also removed the whole hydraulic pump assembly to access the port on top of the tunnel- not sure if that was necessary, but it did end up helping me to get a lot of nasty oil out of the system. My pins? not sure if they need attention yet. I did end up tightening the end play in all the axle shafts though. Very rewarding job.
 
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