Hydrostatic pump wet.

[98 Bob 763f]

Hi guys new to site and to skid steers. I bought mine to clean up and landscape around my house. I was repairing a rotten out exhaust tubewhen i noticed the hydrostatic pump is wet on the pulley side .upon closer inspection i think the leak is coming from the pintle shaft seal. Unfortunately im not 100% as im waiting on an alternator and the exhaust tube. To start it up. Now its only wet there is no dripping pooling or loss of fluid yet. How hard is to replace the seal. And do I half to worry about air getting in th pump before start up.

 

[98 Bob 763f]

Hi guys I should have mentioned it's a 98 bobcat 763 f series skidsteer. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. I have been reading a lot of threads on the subject but most are incomplete and only mention the problem with no follow up. Thanks again for any input.

 

[Tazza]

Hi guys I should have mentioned it's a 98 bobcat 763 f series skidsteer. Any help on this would be greatly appreciated. I have been reading a lot of threads on the subject but most are incomplete and only mention the problem with no follow up. Thanks again for any input.

If it is indeed the pintle shaft seal, it's not a hard job.
The first thing you will want to do is drain as much hydro fluid as you can. I run my machine at idle and activate the aux controls to pump it onto a bucket. WHen it starts to spit, shut down. Some don't like doing this as the pump runs dry, but i feel it never runs dry as there is still oil in there, your call here.
Remove the steerling linkages and the centering parts. There are 4 bolts holding a plate to the top of the pump with a seal in it. Remove the bolts and lift the plate off with the seal. Replace the seal and Oring between the plate and pump.
That is it, not hard to do, but you will need to re-centre your steering and fight with the centering spring. Getting it on can be hard as you need to compress it. I have use big cable ties to compress it just enough to get it in place and cut when on.
Hopefully that will get you started.

 

[98 Bob 763f]

If it is indeed the pintle shaft seal, it's not a hard job.
The first thing you will want to do is drain as much hydro fluid as you can. I run my machine at idle and activate the aux controls to pump it onto a bucket. WHen it starts to spit, shut down. Some don't like doing this as the pump runs dry, but i feel it never runs dry as there is still oil in there, your call here.
Remove the steerling linkages and the centering parts. There are 4 bolts holding a plate to the top of the pump with a seal in it. Remove the bolts and lift the plate off with the seal. Replace the seal and Oring between the plate and pump.
That is it, not hard to do, but you will need to re-centre your steering and fight with the centering spring. Getting it on can be hard as you need to compress it. I have use big cable ties to compress it just enough to get it in place and cut when on.
Hopefully that will get you started.

Thanks for the input tazza. That does sound simply enough. We'll see how it goes. When I attempt the fix but first have to put in my new alternator and exhaust tube. Which I'm expecting this week. Before I take the top off the pump what would be a good way to clean the outside of the pump. It's pretty filthy. Don't want any of that grime to get inside. I only ask cause if the seal is leaking is there a chance if I used engine degreaser and water. Or just brake clean.That it might get into the pump and cause more problems. Any advice would be appreciated.

 

[flyerdan]

Thanks for the input tazza. That does sound simply enough. We'll see how it goes. When I attempt the fix but first have to put in my new alternator and exhaust tube. Which I'm expecting this week. Before I take the top off the pump what would be a good way to clean the outside of the pump. It's pretty filthy. Don't want any of that grime to get inside. I only ask cause if the seal is leaking is there a chance if I used engine degreaser and water. Or just brake clean.That it might get into the pump and cause more problems. Any advice would be appreciated.

As long as you don't direct the cleaning solution directly into the leaking seal you should be ok to clean around the casings. They do grime up pretty easily and it's far nicer to work on a clean component.
Depending on where you are and if you have compressed air available, this cleaning gun from Harbor Freight works good, and they also have degreaser that works well with it. I'm sure that you can find a similar one at Canadian Tire, or other stores that have an automotive section.
I have one and use it often; it's easy to control, gets into areas where a spray can of Gunk or similar would be hard to reach, and you can adjust it from a full wet blast to air only. With the angle tip it's easy to see where you're working so you can avoid areas like your damaged seal that you don't want to risk getting wet.

 

[Tazza]

As long as you don't direct the cleaning solution directly into the leaking seal you should be ok to clean around the casings. They do grime up pretty easily and it's far nicer to work on a clean component.
Depending on where you are and if you have compressed air available, this cleaning gun from Harbor Freight works good, and they also have degreaser that works well with it. I'm sure that you can find a similar one at Canadian Tire, or other stores that have an automotive section.
I have one and use it often; it's easy to control, gets into areas where a spray can of Gunk or similar would be hard to reach, and you can adjust it from a full wet blast to air only. With the angle tip it's easy to see where you're working so you can avoid areas like your damaged seal that you don't want to risk getting wet.

I wouldn't be worried with using solvents, but to wash it off, it may pay to use compressed air. Clean what you can, then when you have replaced the seals, you can get in there with degreaser and a hose to wash it away, and not just off the pump?
I have actually used old petrol (gas) to clean off old grime, but be careful doing this if you can't wash it off with water, you don't want any of it sitting around for when you start the machine, you don't want it catching fire!

 

[98 Bob 763f]

As long as you don't direct the cleaning solution directly into the leaking seal you should be ok to clean around the casings. They do grime up pretty easily and it's far nicer to work on a clean component.
Depending on where you are and if you have compressed air available, this cleaning gun from Harbor Freight works good, and they also have degreaser that works well with it. I'm sure that you can find a similar one at Canadian Tire, or other stores that have an automotive section.
I have one and use it often; it's easy to control, gets into areas where a spray can of Gunk or similar would be hard to reach, and you can adjust it from a full wet blast to air only. With the angle tip it's easy to see where you're working so you can avoid areas like your damaged seal that you don't want to risk getting wet.

Thanks flyerdan appreciate the info. And actually I think my father in law has one similar to that. I might give it a try. Didn't know what it was until you sent that website.