I managed to score a Auxuliary hydraulic Front End kit, with valve, couplers, hoses and all. Problem is that I don't know how to plum it into the existing Hydraulics. If any one has any ideas, A diagram would be extremely helpful. I have a service manual but it doesn't explain where to run the hoses. .... Thank you.
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I'm gonna answer my own post in case someone else comes across something like this. To add the Auxiliary valve there is really 2 options. You can either connect it to the Feed Line, that comes directly off of the Main Hydro Pump and feeds the Main control valve, "INLINE", or 2. you connect to the Main Valve where the Hydro Return line comes out of the Main Valve and insert it in there, "INLINE". Do NOT put a "Tee" in an any line, as it will not actually build any pressure and your valve will suffer massive power loss or just not work at all. Although I don't have a diagram, if you stare at the hydraulics for about 5 minutes it will make sense. Good Luck
SkidRoe
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Hi joer,
This will only work if the control you are installing or your current main control valve have "power beyond" ports. If you do not have these ports, you will be pressurising areas of the control valves that are not intended to see high pressure, and damage could result. Is this the way that Gehl intended it to be done?
I went through both of these options a couple of years back with my machine. I could not come up with a clean, cost effective way of adding aux connections, so I ended up doing it the way that Bobcat had intended: using a 3-spool control valve. Thankfully, the third spool housing already existed and it was just(?) a matter of installing the spool, linkage and plumbing. Cost about $750, but it works like factory (I guess because it is...).
HTH
I'm not sure what Gehl Intended. I haven't found a good answer to this question yet. I've only seen the Service manual and spoken to a few dealers, Who may or many not really know, how it was done, but In the service manual it shows Optional Equipment and they all run off this valve in some way. But There isn't any mention of or reference to the fact that the valve needs to be changed or a different one used. The way this unit operates is that if you do to much of any one thing, Moving, Lifting, turning, They all suffer. I would just assume that this is just another thing to throw into the mix. I appreciate the response, I will do some more digging to see if I can find a clear answer.
SkidRoe, thanks again for the post.. I'm new to the skid loader "resurection" world, After reading your post I went back and reviewed the service manual again. There is still no mention of a power beyond port and there is no other available ports... so after some thinking about it It became apparent to me that in order to not apply high preasure to places where it wasn't intended, that, if I was building a machine and then later added additional items that could change the preassure on a valve that the only way to prevent it would be to put the additional valve inline before the Main Control valve. Then after looking at the picture for about 10 minutes, it appears that, that is what they have done. I will modify the plumbing later on to be before the Control valve. Granted it will probably rob peter to pay paul for power so I;ll just have to be rather liberal when using additional functions. Thanks again joer
SkidRoe
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It could well be that this is the way that Gehl does it. I take it that the parts that you have are the parts listed in your manual?
SkidRoe
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I think that I found the manual that you are looking at. Yes, they have definitely plumbed the aux control in series with the main control, and yes, I would say that it is ahead of the main control by the way that the hoses are routed. It's primative, I wouldn't do it this way, but if your hydraulic pressures are low enough (say less than 1500 psi), it should work.
The only caution that I would apply is don't try to use the aux and loader controls simultaneously. It won't work that well any way if you do.
SkidRoe, Yeah the valve I acquired is an original gehl valve. The current reason for the aux is a post hole digger that I built. Currently I don't think that doing more than one thing at time is even possible. This little skid hasn't run at full song for a long time but I nurse it along and it saves me time and labor. I really can't even turn and drive at the same time. Its really in need of a repower but it works for now. That aside.. are you saying that you would replace the Main control valve with a 3 spool?
SkidRoe
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Although a 3 spool valve would be the ideal method, I don't think you need to go that route with your machine. Stick with what you have. With an auger, you do need to be able to lower your boom while the auger is turning, but gravity will do most of the work for you. What are you thinking for a repower? I repowered my 440b about 3 years ago. Works great.
Not quite sure on the Re-power yet. It currently has a 25 hp Onan although it starts and runs ok. It just never seems to run quite right and always seems like it starving for power. I finally got the valve hooked up and gave it a try tonight, l completely closed the bypass on the valve to get max power on the valve. A side note, Before I did this I made sure that the Max output of this pump is less that the Hydraulic gear or the system can handle. and to my dismay the auger kills the motor. I thought for sue this Hydrulic gear with 2100lb of force could turn a 8 inch auger. That being said, either I am seriously underpowered of the Main hydraulic pump is shot or giving up. I'm gonna throw a preassure valve on the line and see what she has for preassure as soon as I get a chance. In the mean time what did the Repower set ya back? I lookd at a honda, but just not sure.
I noticed that the new "used" hyrdaulic valve that I added leaks pretty bad. I took it apart and replaced the orings, Reinstalled and Leaks just as bad. So i have decided to just buy a new valve but I'm not real sure what I should be looking for. I guessing a basic Log Splitter valve with 2 way control and an Open Center but dunno for sure. Any suggestions would be apprecieated, thanks
Joer, have you checked the timing on your engine and any spark advance ? It really should not just give up and die although a sudden overload will kill all engines. Do you hear the governor open up under increased load? Doesn't sound right but you know your engine best.
Jerry, I have not checked the timing on this engine. I wasn't really sure how. ad as far as the Governor kicking in, I would say that That has never happened. Basically, I start it, everything gets running good and what seems as strong as its gonna get, then I start to move and it just loses power till I stop and let the engine catch back up. Same thing when Trying to drill a hole with the Earth auger, I gradually put load on it until the motor loses enough power that it just stops and It will die if I don't back it off and let the Engine get back up to speed. I have never heard the motor speed up or increase to compensate for power draw. I'm fairly new to this motor, as I've only been blessed with this since the frost broke early this last spring, and I've just been working on it ever since. I did replace the head gaskets and torqued em back to spec but passed that, the only thing I do know about this motor is 1) they don't make them anymore and 2) I could rebuild a small block chevy for half the price. Any advice on the motor would be great!
SkidRoe
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Here is the story of my repower:
http://www.skidsteerforum.com/DesktopDefault.aspx?tabid=54&frmView=ShowPost&PostID=31173
The engine cost me about $800. With everything else, I would say that it cost me between $1000-$1100.
My machine will drive a 12" auger with 7 gpm at 1450 psi. The auger turns about 30 RPM.
Here it is with a 9":
Yes, something like a log splitter valve should work just fine. You may want to pass on the detent option, though.
Thats pretty decent price for a motor? did you find it used or is there a lawn boy carcas laying around somewhere
I'll have to snap a few picture of my loader which I'm quickly naming the Grave Digger, Not because of what it does but the work to get thing back to operating order is gonna put me in my grave. the repower is pretty impressive.
SkidRoe
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The engine was new and came from Princess Auto up here in Canada. It was a display model, and they weren't getting any more, so I haggled with the store manager a bit. It is a Chinese copy of a Honda - I go to Honda for parts for it. Here is a link for cheap engines in the US:Thats pretty decent price for a motor? did you find it used or is there a lawn boy carcas laying around somewhere
http://www.carrollstream.com/
Small Engine Warehouse offers re-power kits. I looked at their kit for my machine and decided that I could build my own. Here is the kit for your machine:
http://www.smallenginewarehouse.com/product.asp?PN=GX670-Gehl2500-R2
SkidRoe, What kind of Hydro Motor is that in the auger? I was starting to suspect that I had the wrong motor in my auger that I built till today I found myself looking at some rentals, and I did a follow up on the motors and they all operate anywhere from 10 to 25 gpm and turn about 1k Max Rpms, which I think is a bit exessive. The one I have maxes out at about 700 Rpms and full song. I didn't plan to operate at that speed. but anyways. I need to figure out this power plant issue..
SkidRoe
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That is a Bobcat 15c auger that I rented. That one has a planetary reduction gear box. The one that I ended up buying uses a bevel drive gear box, like a pto driven auger, but with a hydraulic motor coupled to the box. It is made by Worksaver, model 924h. It has a 3:1 gear reduction. It is actually rated for a minimum flow of 10 gpm, but 7 seems to drive it just fine. From the sounds of it, you may be trying to drive your auger too fast. The auger should not turn any faster than 60 rpm. For your machine, I would be aiming at 30 rpm (1 revolution every 2 seconds), to get as much torque as possible. How did you size your motor? Are you trying to direct-drive the auger?
I knew that the planteary type would be out of my price range to build. and I wasn't opposed to constructing a gear reduction, but I looked at the models that don't have either, just because they would be simple and cheaper to build although they might not work as well. I then pulled the numbers off a few different types and went and looked them up. Thats about it, Then I found a motor that was even slower than those. I take it that the Flow on the Aux for your unit is 7 gpm?
