2015 CASE 420 Skid Steer Was loading material, dumped a load and now the bucket won't curl back up, the cylinders are stuck in the extended position. No fluid leaking/fluid full Can hear/feel the hydraulics engage when moving the joystick in/out Loader arm cylinders work fine Nothing broke on linkage to the solenoid Do I have a bad solenoid or something internal in the hydraulic manifold or other? Thanks in advance for your assistance!
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flyerdan
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- Mar 7, 2009
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It almost sounds like an overextended situation where the cylinder is pulling too straight against the bucket to swing it. Although with it being that new, it shouldn't be worn enough for the geometry to get that far out of whack.
Can you hook the lip of the bucket on something and carefully back up a little to give it a bit of 'help' while trying to roll the bucket in? If that yields nothing, next thing I'd try is pulling the pins on the bucket cylinder ends and see if they work by themselves; if they don't that tells you it's in the hydraulics circuitry somewhere.
Can you hook the lip of the bucket on something and carefully back up a little to give it a bit of 'help' while trying to roll the bucket in? If that yields nothing, next thing I'd try is pulling the pins on the bucket cylinder ends and see if they work by themselves; if they don't that tells you it's in the hydraulics circuitry somewhere.
Yes, I can push the bucket up by pressing it against the ground, rolling backwards, and lowering the lifting arms. So the cylinders will compress, but then they extend as soon as the pressure is off (by lifting the loading arms). The local shop said it could be a bad cylinder. So isolating each of them (capping the lines on one side) tomorrow and seeing if that tells me anything.
You almost certainly have a snapped cylinder rod. The rod is turned down and threaded to accept the piston and the rod will be snapped under the piston. When you try to retract the cylinders the piston moves back off the rod shoulder and the broken rod end lifts off the piston and lets oil bypass the piston. When you extend the cylinder everything pushes back together again and will hold enough oil to extend the cylinder almost completely normally. If the rod is broken I would highly recommend taking the cylinder to a good cylinder shop and have them make a new rod for it with a larger dia shank that goes through the piston. This is a known problem and Case offered an updated rod if I remember right. OEM Case parts will be expensive.
flyerdan
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That makes perfect sense; I had to think about it for a minute to work out why the other cylinder would allow it to move, but with them plumbed in parallel a leak would allow fluid migration on the good side.
Rather than remove and cap the lines, I'd pull the pins on the eye end and see which cylinder rod moved easily by hand.
