Right side is smooth and drive fine forward or reverse. When I move the left stick (especially to turn) either forward or reverse, I notice a decent whine, along with a lack of power. What is somewhat odd to me is that if I am moving both sticks at the same time, the whining is almost non-existent, but at soon as I put more load on the left side, it starts to whine again. I can definitely feel it is straining, and it almost feels like the hyd flow isnt as good on that side. the right side seems fine (for a 30 year old machine) and turns with relative ease, especially compared to the left side. Any thoughts on what this is? I suspect left drive motor, but hoping it is a seal or valve that can be replaced. Havent done much with the hyd system yet, other than add some oil to the tank and to the lower drive reservoir. I know I need to start with a fresh filter, but I dont think thats the issue, since only one side is acting up. thanks in advance for the input. Also, I am having some issues with what I believe is the carb. Zenith updraft carb on the ford 1.6 liter gas engine. Assuming jets are clogged, as right now it will only run when it is fully choked. Every now and then it will seemingly clear itself and run great for about 30 minutes without the choke, but eventually it will start sputtering and I have to choke it again and limp back to the spot where i keep it stored on my property. Any suggestions there? Should I just pull it and get a rebuild kit? From what I can tell, it looks like a huge pain to remove, given the linkage and lack of space to get to it. Thanks again.
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Carb comes off pretty easy. Disconnect the throttle rod at the governor end, remove the fuel supply hose at the pump end. Remove the two bolts for the base using a 1/4-inch drive ratchet and a deepwell 1/2-inch socket for the inboard one and a short 1/2-inch box on the outboard one. Leave the bowden choke cable for last after you drop down the carb. The anti-dieseling solenoid on the fuel inlet can be troublesome. Mine runs great without it. Any scale will cause it to stick closed. Just use decent (ethanol-free) fuel. The holes in the sides of the emulsion tube as well as the main jet need to be really shiny clean. I use the appropriate size number drill. Carburetor cleaner will remove soot deposits but not the scale that shrinks the various fuel passage holes. -Dick*** Maybe you will get other help with the drive.
Good advise for the carb.Carb comes off pretty easy. Disconnect the throttle rod at the governor end, remove the fuel supply hose at the pump end. Remove the two bolts for the base using a 1/4-inch drive ratchet and a deepwell 1/2-inch socket for the inboard one and a short 1/2-inch box on the outboard one. Leave the bowden choke cable for last after you drop down the carb. The anti-dieseling solenoid on the fuel inlet can be troublesome. Mine runs great without it. Any scale will cause it to stick closed. Just use decent (ethanol-free) fuel. The holes in the sides of the emulsion tube as well as the main jet need to be really shiny clean. I use the appropriate size number drill. Carburetor cleaner will remove soot deposits but not the scale that shrinks the various fuel passage holes. -Dick*** Maybe you will get other help with the drive.
For the hydraulics, a good test is to move drive motors from side to side, then you know for sure if it's a motor is pump issue. If the issue moves, it's the motor and yes, seal kits are available if that's the issue, even geroler parts are available if it's worn out.
Get the motors moves from side to side then go from there, your pumps and motors can be repaired for a resaonable price if needed. Some pump wear can be fixed with wet and dry and a sheet of glass to make them flat again.
This should probably be in a separate thread but...........here in the US you can buy Lexan. (It is bullet-proof 'glass' in thicker sheets.) A window pane sheet thickness is all you need though to use with wet-dry sand paper and mineral spirits. I used to crack glass all too often when flattening parts. Not any more with Lexan. It also survives the time in between uses too. ;-)Good advise for the carb.
For the hydraulics, a good test is to move drive motors from side to side, then you know for sure if it's a motor is pump issue. If the issue moves, it's the motor and yes, seal kits are available if that's the issue, even geroler parts are available if it's worn out.
Get the motors moves from side to side then go from there, your pumps and motors can be repaired for a resaonable price if needed. Some pump wear can be fixed with wet and dry and a sheet of glass to make them flat again.
Forgot to say commonly available in ACE Hardware, Home Depot, etc.This should probably be in a separate thread but...........here in the US you can buy Lexan. (It is bullet-proof 'glass' in thicker sheets.) A window pane sheet thickness is all you need though to use with wet-dry sand paper and mineral spirits. I used to crack glass all too often when flattening parts. Not any more with Lexan. It also survives the time in between uses too. ;-)
Good to know that it's flat enough to do the job, i always used glass cause i knew it was flat and the fact the pieces i use were free. I can see it's eay to break though.Forgot to say commonly available in ACE Hardware, Home Depot, etc.
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