763 Shooting hydraulic oil out the control valve?

Help Support SkidSteer Forum:

Tazza

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,839
Also mine was shooting out at all times as soon as you started the machine it didnt matter if it was sitting still or moving or lifting.
In that cap, there is only a spring and two balls, nothing else will shoot out. These parts are not expensive from the dealer.
Sorry for the delay, i don't get much time on weekends to prowl the forum :)
 

jlmoon

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2013
Messages
67
It is a headache of a job but I think my was so bad bc it was compounded by my first time doing it, the stripped out allen screw causing me to have to cut the side of the machine and trying to work around stuff I should have just pulled off from the start like everything shown in the pic above.

I forgot to mention keeping a bunch of zip lock bags including the large freezer bags to keep everything including the spool valves in once you pull them. It keeps everything together and allows you to clean up without a bunch of debris flying on to your parts.
Mike, I'm curious as to why my shoots out as shown in the youtube link at the start of this post and why yours would seep out? If anyone knows please post so us newbies can kind of understand what is going on.
cmb, Regarding the stripped out allen screw.. could you not reach it by using a small die grinder or 90degree angle die grinder. They work wonders for removing old bolts.. such as on exhaust manifolds etc.. Just be sure to cover any open port areas because they do throw alot of metal filings everywhere. JLM
 

jlmoon

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 19, 2013
Messages
67
Before I put this thing back together here is where I'm at. As states above the cap for the spool valve that is the spool valve lowest on the control valve block (spool valve closest to the bottom of the machine) is held on by a keeper. I went to the bocat parts dealer and bought two new seals (one for the front and one for the back) The guy said that is the only two seals on the valve. He said the shaft looked good and there was no need to buff it as they had no score marks of any kind. He said the cap that has the bearings that will fly out is just bearings and springs and no need to take apart or do anything to. He told me to just clean it off with lots of parts cleaner and put it back in and showed me what direction to put the seals. That is easy enough.
My questions comes in about the insides of the caps that I'm told by him not to remove. Is it ture that the onlyu thing in there is springs and the bearings that will shoot out? I have read others that said their spool valves were sticking or not operating right. Remeber this all started by the spool valve (not the one with bearings) right belw the aux spool valve was shooting a stream of fluid out the rear cap. I told him this and he said does that when the seals are worn but that just doesnt make sense to me. I would hate to get it all back together to find out I should have shot grease or something at least in the caps where I'm told there is just springs and bearings? Is there anything I should do or just do what the bobcat parts guys said and leave it alone? Or should I leave it in place without taking it apart and is there any grease I should try to wedge in there at all?
Cmb.. I think the cap with the ball bearings is the center detent mechanism, am I correct? Responsible for insuring the spool returns to center open port position (open center style). JLM
 

Tazza

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,839
Cmb.. I think the cap with the ball bearings is the center detent mechanism, am I correct? Responsible for insuring the spool returns to center open port position (open center style). JLM
You are correct, there is a centering spring held in place with the cap. On the sections with a detent position, they have another cap with a spring and metal balls to allow it to lock in position.
 
OP
OP
C

cmb7684

Well-known member
Joined
May 17, 2008
Messages
231
You are correct, there is a centering spring held in place with the cap. On the sections with a detent position, they have another cap with a spring and metal balls to allow it to lock in position.
OK i have the valves back together but before i hook up the linkage I have a question. When you put the spool valve or shaft in the block how do you know if you didnt mark which end would face up or face down? Obviously i know the hub things face the back of the machine but I just want to double check if it matter which way the valves go as far as what part of the shaft facing up or down?
 

Tazza

Moderator
Staff member
Joined
Dec 7, 2004
Messages
16,839
OK i have the valves back together but before i hook up the linkage I have a question. When you put the spool valve or shaft in the block how do you know if you didnt mark which end would face up or face down? Obviously i know the hub things face the back of the machine but I just want to double check if it matter which way the valves go as far as what part of the shaft facing up or down?
Are you talking about the spool or the cap on the back?
The spool can go in whatever way, it should be dead straight, if it binds, rotate it 180 degrees.
If you are talking about the cap, there should be a small spot on the face that bolts to the control block with a small groove cut in it, this should face down to let any water/oil out the bottom.
 
Top