Hello, I have just bought a used 1998 751 skid steer and am needing some info on changing the hydraulic oil. Would somebody please tell me how to drain the old oil out? I asked the dealer and they said there would be a plug under the tank to drain it and there is not one that i can find. Somebody else said there would be a hose with a plug or a cap on it laying loose behind the plate between the tires and i cant find it either. I am new to this and i am changing all of the fluids and really need some help. Any advise would be great. Thanks
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Ok, depends on the oil you wish to change.
Engine: there is a hose in the engine bay that you remove the plug from the end and the oil will drain out. Replace the filter and re-fill with the correct grade DIESEL engine oil.
Chain case: between the back tyres is a plate with 3 bolts, remove it and you will see 2 rubber plugs with a steel insert inside it. Remove the one at the FRONT of the machine, it will be into steel, the other is into plastic, this is your fuel tank. When you drain the chain case you need to remove the front inspection plate where your feet go to mop the crud at the bottom out. The correct oil height is level with the threads on the plug at the front, use a 1/2" ratchet to remove this plug to re-fill.
Main hydraulics: there is no drain for this, i personally run the machine at idle and crack a fitting on my aux hydraulics and fit a hose to a bucket. Operate the hydraulics till it starts to spit and you hear the pump growl, shut the engine off. Replace the filter in the engine bay, tip right corner and re-fill the system. If the oil was milky you will need to do this a few times, but run the machine between. So change the oil then give it a run, drive it around, operate the hydraulics to get the oil moving around then dump it. Re-fill again, do this till the oil is the correct colour. I have had to do this once before, it took about 3 changes of oil to get it rite. If the oil is pretty good, but a little off, you can use it in your chain case. Its not as critical as your hydraulic system. But don't use it is its white!
Good luck, hopefully that gives you a few ideas.
Engine: there is a hose in the engine bay that you remove the plug from the end and the oil will drain out. Replace the filter and re-fill with the correct grade DIESEL engine oil.
Chain case: between the back tyres is a plate with 3 bolts, remove it and you will see 2 rubber plugs with a steel insert inside it. Remove the one at the FRONT of the machine, it will be into steel, the other is into plastic, this is your fuel tank. When you drain the chain case you need to remove the front inspection plate where your feet go to mop the crud at the bottom out. The correct oil height is level with the threads on the plug at the front, use a 1/2" ratchet to remove this plug to re-fill.
Main hydraulics: there is no drain for this, i personally run the machine at idle and crack a fitting on my aux hydraulics and fit a hose to a bucket. Operate the hydraulics till it starts to spit and you hear the pump growl, shut the engine off. Replace the filter in the engine bay, tip right corner and re-fill the system. If the oil was milky you will need to do this a few times, but run the machine between. So change the oil then give it a run, drive it around, operate the hydraulics to get the oil moving around then dump it. Re-fill again, do this till the oil is the correct colour. I have had to do this once before, it took about 3 changes of oil to get it rite. If the oil is pretty good, but a little off, you can use it in your chain case. Its not as critical as your hydraulic system. But don't use it is its white!
Good luck, hopefully that gives you a few ideas.
Thanks for the info. I will give that a try and see what happens. Thanks againOk, depends on the oil you wish to change.
Engine: there is a hose in the engine bay that you remove the plug from the end and the oil will drain out. Replace the filter and re-fill with the correct grade DIESEL engine oil.
Chain case: between the back tyres is a plate with 3 bolts, remove it and you will see 2 rubber plugs with a steel insert inside it. Remove the one at the FRONT of the machine, it will be into steel, the other is into plastic, this is your fuel tank. When you drain the chain case you need to remove the front inspection plate where your feet go to mop the crud at the bottom out. The correct oil height is level with the threads on the plug at the front, use a 1/2" ratchet to remove this plug to re-fill.
Main hydraulics: there is no drain for this, i personally run the machine at idle and crack a fitting on my aux hydraulics and fit a hose to a bucket. Operate the hydraulics till it starts to spit and you hear the pump growl, shut the engine off. Replace the filter in the engine bay, tip right corner and re-fill the system. If the oil was milky you will need to do this a few times, but run the machine between. So change the oil then give it a run, drive it around, operate the hydraulics to get the oil moving around then dump it. Re-fill again, do this till the oil is the correct colour. I have had to do this once before, it took about 3 changes of oil to get it rite. If the oil is pretty good, but a little off, you can use it in your chain case. Its not as critical as your hydraulic system. But don't use it is its white!
Good luck, hopefully that gives you a few ideas.
mrfixitpaul
Well-known member
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2009
- Messages
- 365
If you don't want to risk running the pump dry, you can remove either side cover between the wheels, and drain by removing the case drain hose (smallest one) from the drive motor. Probably going to be a little more messy than Tazza's method and slower, but the pump won't like it if it runs dry too much.Thanks for the info. I will give that a try and see what happens. Thanks again
In theory, can't you use both your aux lines, one to drain the fluid, the other to suck from a fresh container of oil?Ok, depends on the oil you wish to change.
Engine: there is a hose in the engine bay that you remove the plug from the end and the oil will drain out. Replace the filter and re-fill with the correct grade DIESEL engine oil.
Chain case: between the back tyres is a plate with 3 bolts, remove it and you will see 2 rubber plugs with a steel insert inside it. Remove the one at the FRONT of the machine, it will be into steel, the other is into plastic, this is your fuel tank. When you drain the chain case you need to remove the front inspection plate where your feet go to mop the crud at the bottom out. The correct oil height is level with the threads on the plug at the front, use a 1/2" ratchet to remove this plug to re-fill.
Main hydraulics: there is no drain for this, i personally run the machine at idle and crack a fitting on my aux hydraulics and fit a hose to a bucket. Operate the hydraulics till it starts to spit and you hear the pump growl, shut the engine off. Replace the filter in the engine bay, tip right corner and re-fill the system. If the oil was milky you will need to do this a few times, but run the machine between. So change the oil then give it a run, drive it around, operate the hydraulics to get the oil moving around then dump it. Re-fill again, do this till the oil is the correct colour. I have had to do this once before, it took about 3 changes of oil to get it rite. If the oil is pretty good, but a little off, you can use it in your chain case. Its not as critical as your hydraulic system. But don't use it is its white!
Good luck, hopefully that gives you a few ideas.
The pump won't run dry as such, there will still be oil in there, as soon as it foams you shut down, but as i said its your choice if you want to do it this way, i have never had a problem with causing damage.In theory, can't you use both your aux lines, one to drain the fluid, the other to suck from a fresh container of oil?
In theory you could draw oil through the aux lines, hook up a vacuum to a line and operate the hydraulics and i can see it drawing the oil through.