751 C with Peugeot Motor (Turn Cam Shaft?)

[bobbie-g]

If you do the belt, you really should do the tensioner and idler too..... At the very least, whith the belt off, feel for any play or 'grittyness' in the bearings. If there is any doubt, change them.
Let us know how the job goes.

OK guys, looks like I need to pull my Pug engine and at least do rings. Using too much oil and really tough to start (brand new Bosch glowplugs), even with a block heater on for a few hours. Compression on one cy down to 300 psi, others are in the mid-to-high 300's. Here's the Q list: How to get the engine out? Manual shows lifting bracket, do I need to fab one? What else to do, other than what's already in this thread? I'm thinking replace the fuel pickup and tank level sender (mine's flaky). Just put on all new water hoses, so those are OK. Anyone know how to connect a heater? It would be easier to run the lines with the engine out. I'll mike the cylinders to see if I need to rebore. ---RC

 

[Tazza]

OK guys, looks like I need to pull my Pug engine and at least do rings. Using too much oil and really tough to start (brand new Bosch glowplugs), even with a block heater on for a few hours. Compression on one cy down to 300 psi, others are in the mid-to-high 300's. Here's the Q list: How to get the engine out? Manual shows lifting bracket, do I need to fab one? What else to do, other than what's already in this thread? I'm thinking replace the fuel pickup and tank level sender (mine's flaky). Just put on all new water hoses, so those are OK. Anyone know how to connect a heater? It would be easier to run the lines with the engine out. I'll mike the cylinders to see if I need to rebore. ---RC

I removed mine without taking the pump too. Remove hoses, i think i was able to leave the exhause attached, not sure though. Remove the flywheel and the mounting bolts through the bell housing. The front engine mount needs to go too. I lifted with an air hoist up and out.
Good luck with the touch up. For parts, look on ebay in the UK, they have a few pugs around there, parts are a bit cheaper than locally, at least they were for me.

 

[Lavorn]

I actually replaced mine with the engine out, but i'm sure you can do it in place.
Remove the covers, you will notice there is a hole in the cam sprocket and the injector pump. There will be a tapped hole in the block that you can insert a bolt through the sprocket and into the block to hold it in place. Same with the injector pump. There is a hole in the fly wheel too, I used a pin punch through the flywheel and into the housing the the engine. They will not always line up first try, spin the engine over by hand till they do and lock it all in place. Remove the tensioner, idler and belt, replace them and you're set.
Its really quite easy.
Just when you're done, rotate the engine by hand at least 2 revolutions to ensure its right and the valves are not touching the pistons.

When we put my 751 engine back together after replacing the broken timing belt, camshaft, one valve and a tappet, we found it to run like the injector pump is out of time as it is hard to start, runs rough and pings loudly and doesn't have the power it ought to plus burns black exhaust. Sounds like an injector timing issue to me. I don't have a manual so don't know exactly how to time it correctly and am just a shade tree mechanic.

 

[bobbie-g]

When we put my 751 engine back together after replacing the broken timing belt, camshaft, one valve and a tappet, we found it to run like the injector pump is out of time as it is hard to start, runs rough and pings loudly and doesn't have the power it ought to plus burns black exhaust. Sounds like an injector timing issue to me. I don't have a manual so don't know exactly how to time it correctly and am just a shade tree mechanic.

Not sure this will help, but adjusting the timing is pretty easy. The injector pump is held in place with 3 bolts/nuts. First, scribe a line on the pump and the mounting flange so you can keep track of what you're doing. Loosen the bolts and use a huge set of pliers to just rotate the pump, then tighten it back down. I've changed mine by about 1/16" and it makes a noticeable difference. Forget which advances and which way retards. Just a suggestion: start by rotating it 1/16 inch in one direction and see if it helps. The guy who showed me this was doing it "hot" with the engine running. I think he left the bolts snug so it was pretty hard to rotate, but I could hear the engine run smoother as he advanced the timing. I think this was about 100 hrs after a timing belt change, so I think as it wore in, it retarded the timing slightly. --- Now, did you pull the engine and leave the pump in place as Tazza suggested? I need to pull it and do at least a ring job. I think I'm supposed to use a lifting bracket, but maybe I can get by with just bolting a chain on the engine and using a hyd lift/boom to lift it slightly and roll it out backwards. How did you remove it? ---Bobbie G

 

[Tazza]

Not sure this will help, but adjusting the timing is pretty easy. The injector pump is held in place with 3 bolts/nuts. First, scribe a line on the pump and the mounting flange so you can keep track of what you're doing. Loosen the bolts and use a huge set of pliers to just rotate the pump, then tighten it back down. I've changed mine by about 1/16" and it makes a noticeable difference. Forget which advances and which way retards. Just a suggestion: start by rotating it 1/16 inch in one direction and see if it helps. The guy who showed me this was doing it "hot" with the engine running. I think he left the bolts snug so it was pretty hard to rotate, but I could hear the engine run smoother as he advanced the timing. I think this was about 100 hrs after a timing belt change, so I think as it wore in, it retarded the timing slightly. --- Now, did you pull the engine and leave the pump in place as Tazza suggested? I need to pull it and do at least a ring job. I think I'm supposed to use a lifting bracket, but maybe I can get by with just bolting a chain on the engine and using a hyd lift/boom to lift it slightly and roll it out backwards. How did you remove it? ---Bobbie G

The bracked helped, but i can't see why you can't do it without and jiggle it into place.