oh joy...
It's not hard just take out the engine mounting bolts and the bolts and spacers that mount the pump assemby to the sides. I can't remember if I had to take the bolt out of the center of the pump pulley for a little more clearance or not but it seems like I did.
I got it done... 2.5 hours of labor... about an hour of driving to get the belt... I removed both side bolts... but not the pulley bolt... I had been prying up the tensioner and it pulled out a wire in the traction BICS connector... I almost crapped myself when I started up and there was still a problem... but it was a VERY easy fix...
Glad you got it done. However, I have changed several in both early and late 463's and all I ever did was take the bolt out of the pulley that you get at from outside the frame. With the bolt out, a new belt goes right in. 453's may require the engine to be loosened, but I absolutely know FOR SURE that on a 463 only that pulley bolt has to come out to give enough clearance to slip the belt in. Still, glad you got it. Next breakdown will be the centering springs on the steering if they haven't been changed already. Another common repair is the electric fuel shut-off solenoid. It works "backwards" of most others, as electric current holds it open. On most other diesels I have the electric current shuts them off. Glow plugs fail commonly as well. I can't remember if 463's have case drain filters or not--one of my guys does those maint items, but if they do, I'd certainly change the cartridge(s) inside them. Lots of "junk" inside means a problem is coming....
Dave how do you stop the pulley from moving so you can break loose the bolt holding it on? That was something I looked at but I had VERY limited time...and the motor mounts were straight forward...
Not trying to be contradictory but I thought the engine solenoid on the 453 needed power to stop the engine...I remember having one that blew the engine fuse and wouldn't shut off with the key. The solenoid 'pulls' when the key is turned off and stops the engine, then the timer releases it after a few seconds and it's ready to run again.
On the 453f is there enough room with the engine leveraged over to get to the idler pulley? I need to replace that darn thing and I do not want to pull the whole engine. Did you have to remove the battery to move the engine over? How many engine/pump mounting bolts are there? Thanks, Scott
I loosened the rear two mounts... and removed the front two... I doubt there was really enough "room" to remove the pulley but I could be wrong... this was my first time really having to work on this machine...
I had to pull the engine/pump assembly to repair the idler on my 453F. My hands are too large to get in there and I just don't have the dexterity I used to anymore. It's not too bad of a job if you have a engine hoist and you get to clean out all the crud that accumulates around and under the engine.
Been awhile since I been here. Searched and found this thread. I know it's on the older side but wonder if anyone else has done the drive belt and idler plulley change on an early 04/05 463. 722 motor w/about 850 hours. Just had to replace the alternator belt and have been checking the drive belt often and just wanna stay ahead of the game. Don't notice anything unusual yet with the original belt. I'm on the smaller side so may be able to get my hands along the flywheel to change the idler.....but wondering if it can be done regardless without lossening the mounts and sliding the motor over. Skid is only used for snow removal so would hate to get caught away from home and a broken belt. Used a few f-inhimers changing the alt. belt and can imagine there will be a few used for the drive belt and pulley. Thanks, Steve
With a impact gun. this took me about 30 minutes to do. I also took the two little allen bolts from the electrical box loose
