For caluclations, you need to know your hydraulic pressure and flow too.Skidsteer is Gehl 4625
With those figures in hand, goto: https://www.surpluscenter.com/techhelp.asp?catname=hydraulicFor caluclations, you need to know your hydraulic pressure and flow too.
I'm gonna figure 540 rpm for ptoWith those figures in hand, goto: https://www.surpluscenter.com/techhelp.asp?catname=hydraulic
Here you can work out the CID of the motor that you will require.
I believe standard PTO speed is 540rpm? some is faster though, ensure you work this out.
Will I need some sort of drain back system so the mower blades can free wheel when I let off hydraulicsWith those figures in hand, goto: https://www.surpluscenter.com/techhelp.asp?catname=hydraulic
Here you can work out the CID of the motor that you will require.
I believe standard PTO speed is 540rpm? some is faster though, ensure you work this out.
You need to plumb a check valve in, linking the supply and return lines to the motor. This will allow the motor to free wheel and circulate oil as the blade spins down. Make sense?Will I need some sort of drain back system so the mower blades can free wheel when I let off hydraulics
If so how do I set that up?
I think it does. So the check valve is closed when the hydraulics are turned on, because the supply line is pressurized keeping the check valve closed. When turned off the check valve opens and allows fluid from the return line to flow through the check valve into the supply line then into the motor. This loop keeps occuring as long as blades turn the motor and hydraulics are turned off. Now since Im dealing with a 3 point motor, I may want to use it for other things, so I'll need a on/off valve to disable the check when I don't want to use it Thanks for your help.You need to plumb a check valve in, linking the supply and return lines to the motor. This will allow the motor to free wheel and circulate oil as the blade spins down. Make sense?
Yes if you want to reverse the motors direction under power, for say a auger, you wil need to put a manual valve on the bypass line to close it to flow in either direction.I think it does. So the check valve is closed when the hydraulics are turned on, because the supply line is pressurized keeping the check valve closed. When turned off the check valve opens and allows fluid from the return line to flow through the check valve into the supply line then into the motor. This loop keeps occuring as long as blades turn the motor and hydraulics are turned off. Now since Im dealing with a 3 point motor, I may want to use it for other things, so I'll need a on/off valve to disable the check when I don't want to use it Thanks for your help.
Another option would be to install an over running clutch in your mower's drive line. I have seen them on ebay for not a whole lot of money:I think it does. So the check valve is closed when the hydraulics are turned on, because the supply line is pressurized keeping the check valve closed. When turned off the check valve opens and allows fluid from the return line to flow through the check valve into the supply line then into the motor. This loop keeps occuring as long as blades turn the motor and hydraulics are turned off. Now since Im dealing with a 3 point motor, I may want to use it for other things, so I'll need a on/off valve to disable the check when I don't want to use it Thanks for your help.
It would be easier. Not sure about cost but it dosen't take long to spend $100 on hydraulic parts. Especially since I'd want to get a manual valve to close the by-pass all together like skidsteer.ca mentioned. I'll have to think about whether there's another reason I'd want an overriding clutch.Another option would be to install an over running clutch in your mower's drive line. I have seen them on ebay for not a whole lot of money:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/PTO-Overrunning-Clutch-Coupler-1-3-8-Ford-New-Holland-John-Deere-AC-IH-MF-MM-/230691176154?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35b643feda
Might be cheaper and easier in the long run.
I know this post is a little old, but I was wondering if the project was completed and how it works and if you have any pics?It would be easier. Not sure about cost but it dosen't take long to spend $100 on hydraulic parts. Especially since I'd want to get a manual valve to close the by-pass all together like skidsteer.ca mentioned. I'll have to think about whether there's another reason I'd want an overriding clutch.
What ever happened to this…was it finished, how did you piece it together, any pictures, how did it work? Anyone else have one they converted?I know this post is a little old, but I was wondering if the project was completed and how it works and if you have any pics?
T-R