I have a 763 with a little over 800 hours. What appears to be a control valve (if it was a car it would be the passenger side) has what looks like the control vavle mounted on the side wall of the machine. It has solenoids in the top of it and has hysraulic lines (steel and rubber) running to it. The side of the vavle facing the motor there is a rubber boot over a knob of some type that would be the first knob going down that side it appears the leak is coming out the rubber boot or cover. There is another knob that sticks out a little further and then a rubber hose with steel fitting under that. I changed that rubber hose thinking that was it. Well it wasnt it. Those knobs are leaking and is where the fluid is coming from. Is this repairable and do I have to pull the vavle what exactly is it that is leaking?
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If its'w what i'm thinking of, it is to lower the lift arms when the engine is off. It has a knob that you can access on your right when sitting in the seat? You lift ut up and turn it to let the arms down.
If you lift the cab and look around the valve you may be able to see where it is leaking.
If you lift the cab and look around the valve you may be able to see where it is leaking.
I think what you are talking about is the valve with the red lever. That isnt the vavle that is leaking. The hose that runs from that vavle witht he red lever to what appears as the main control valve. It is that main control vavle that is leaking. As a mtter of fact when I thought it was a hose leaking it was the hose that runs from the valve with the red lever to the main vavle that I changed and it turned out was not it. i will try to get a pic unless you know what im referring to.
tazza I emailed you a few pics. I will post on here later tonight for the others.
Here is a link to a video of it on YouTube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjEYmri_j_o
I think you are talking about the rubber boots that go on the end of the lift and tilt spool end covers. Sounds like you need the vavle resealed.
well i pulled the rubber boot off and the video shows a stream of fluid shooting out the control valve. Its weird how the hole or leak its shooting from as shown in the video is dead center of the cap. almost like a relief valve of some type. I'm waiting for confirmation frm Tazza or anyone really that it is in fact a spool valve seal that is the problem.
7LBSSMALLIE
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- Feb 2, 2012
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first please when refering to location of componets it is imperative thall referenace be made from operator position, as in seat right is right , that being said , its a control valve leak needs resealed .you can pull it but will take 4 hrs opens up possiblty of contaiaments entering sys and can not be tested, BCD has a good post about this. can be done in field by service tech who will also give unit a good look over (we cant help it its what we do) and advise of any other issues that need adreesed, or send to shop normal quote about three hrs 20 bucks in parts gets cleaned and tested. money well spent , also resulting in a good look over and advisment of what needs done, not trying to sell a conuter valve flush, guys rember this is what we do for a living, partners in business. so to speak,
LOL awww come on 7lbssmallie plase tell me it is bc i bought a unit with a Boss system so that was the start of this machines issues lol. just teasing ...on another note I spoke with Bobcat dealer today and they said use it was a spool valve leaking which I'm guessing is the same thing as a control valve you mention 7lbs. I dont know of any come to site mechanics for this in my area and honestly would want to avoid if I could the cost of that service call even if I could get one. The parts guy at the bobcat dealer said the fix is simple. He said unbolt the 2 allen screws on the leaking side. Then remove the pin attached to the linkage on the opposite side. On the linkage side remove the 2 allen screws on the side. He said then lightly tap the valve on the linkage end pushing it out of the other side while holding the cap (leaking side) and cupping the valvle with the palm of your hand as it slides out and at the same time keeping pressure on the leaking side cap with your thumb tp hold it together as it comes out. He said once it come out put it in a zip lock bag and bring it to them and thet will put the new O rings in at no cost other than parts which should be under 10 bucks he said. If he missed anything let me know.
The pics below are of the spool valve I'm working on. Its the front and back side. Notice in the picture it is connected to the linkage and the other picture is of the rear side where the centering spring cap is located. You can see the hole int he center of the cap where the fluid was shooting out in the video. You can alo see the allen screws I have to remove on the sides. They also have 2 allen scres I have to remove on the linkage side.
On the linkage side you can see there is a cap of some sort blocking the view of the linkage connection to the valve. There is a pin I have to remove and that cap is in the way. The cap I/m talking about is to the left of the black plastic wire protector wrap. Can anyone tell me if I can just unbolt it from the valve and will anything pop out I need to take caution with? I'm not sure what it is or what it does so I don't want to remove it until someone can tell me there is nothing to worry about as far as stuff popping out on me.
Here is an edited picture with an arrow pointing to the thing blocking me from removing the linkage pin.
<a href="http://s111.photobucket.com/albums/...amp;current=Bobcat763Spoolvalve2editarrow.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n139/cmb7684/Bobcat 763/Bobcat763Spoolvalve2editarrow.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
Instead of starting a new thread and after a bunch of headaches Im back to repairing this spool valve and getting my machine going again. After 9 months of kicking it around I decided to cut a hole in the side of the machine to get to a stripped out allen screw and was my hold up among other things going on that took priority.
To others reading this thread here is where I'm at so far in case you find yourself in the same spot. The hardest part by far is getting to the allen screws on the front of the two spool valves. There are three spool valves the top one on my machine has two plates and are for hydraulics and I'm told by mutiple people you do not need to fool with it and by chance if it starts leaking it is only two O rings that are visible and able to be removed by removing the cap on each side.
The two spool valves below are the one you have to change out and it is highly suggested you do both because if you do one the other will be leaking shortly. I had to remove the regulator with the arrow drawn on top of it to get to the spool valves. I also unbolted the linkage bar that does across the machine that bolts the the spool vavles to the left of the regulator shown on the pic to get it out of the way along with the hose shown in the pic. It makes life a lot easier. Grab the regulator with a wrench I forgot the size and it unsrews.
Next you will have the pleasure of trying to remove allen screws you cant see. There are two in the front and two in the back of each valve caddy corner to one another. So you have to get out 4 allen screws total n each valve. To save you the time the allen wrench you need is 3/16. I went to harbor freight and got one of those cheap T handle ratcheting drive sets that you can fit mutiple bits in. That thing is a life savor and worth every bit of 10 bucks to get those screws out. You will also need a small 1/4 drive ratchet with a socket (I think it was either 1/4 or 3/8) I forget the exact size socket but what you want to be able to do is switch the 3/16 allen bit that fits in the ratchet t handle drive in to the ratchet as some of the screws are easier to get out that way. What you may find like I did is that the screw had lock tite on it and one of the allen screws against the wall of the machine stripped out causing me to have to use a grinder and cutting wheel to cut a square access to get to the stripped allen screw with a vice grip to get it loose. Leson learned I will not use lock tite on screws that are hard to get to. Having some extensions handy in mutiple lengths that you can but the 3/16 allen bit on to unscrew the allen screw the rest of the way once it is broken loose is also a plus.
A few things to note if the lower spool valve is the one everyone warns not to let the cap off of that face the rear of the machine because it has bearing that are spring loaded that will fly out. While I was cafeful not to after cleaning the vavle up outside the machine I noticed the cap is on with a pretty stout keeper preventing it from coming off. So maybe others can weigh in how the cap comes off when it is held on with a keeper?
You will also need to pick up a bunch of cans of brake parts cleaner and shop towels.
I will follow up with a question on the valve that I have after this post.
To others reading this thread here is where I'm at so far in case you find yourself in the same spot. The hardest part by far is getting to the allen screws on the front of the two spool valves. There are three spool valves the top one on my machine has two plates and are for hydraulics and I'm told by mutiple people you do not need to fool with it and by chance if it starts leaking it is only two O rings that are visible and able to be removed by removing the cap on each side.
The two spool valves below are the one you have to change out and it is highly suggested you do both because if you do one the other will be leaking shortly. I had to remove the regulator with the arrow drawn on top of it to get to the spool valves. I also unbolted the linkage bar that does across the machine that bolts the the spool vavles to the left of the regulator shown on the pic to get it out of the way along with the hose shown in the pic. It makes life a lot easier. Grab the regulator with a wrench I forgot the size and it unsrews.
Next you will have the pleasure of trying to remove allen screws you cant see. There are two in the front and two in the back of each valve caddy corner to one another. So you have to get out 4 allen screws total n each valve. To save you the time the allen wrench you need is 3/16. I went to harbor freight and got one of those cheap T handle ratcheting drive sets that you can fit mutiple bits in. That thing is a life savor and worth every bit of 10 bucks to get those screws out. You will also need a small 1/4 drive ratchet with a socket (I think it was either 1/4 or 3/8) I forget the exact size socket but what you want to be able to do is switch the 3/16 allen bit that fits in the ratchet t handle drive in to the ratchet as some of the screws are easier to get out that way. What you may find like I did is that the screw had lock tite on it and one of the allen screws against the wall of the machine stripped out causing me to have to use a grinder and cutting wheel to cut a square access to get to the stripped allen screw with a vice grip to get it loose. Leson learned I will not use lock tite on screws that are hard to get to. Having some extensions handy in mutiple lengths that you can but the 3/16 allen bit on to unscrew the allen screw the rest of the way once it is broken loose is also a plus.
A few things to note if the lower spool valve is the one everyone warns not to let the cap off of that face the rear of the machine because it has bearing that are spring loaded that will fly out. While I was cafeful not to after cleaning the vavle up outside the machine I noticed the cap is on with a pretty stout keeper preventing it from coming off. So maybe others can weigh in how the cap comes off when it is held on with a keeper?
You will also need to pick up a bunch of cans of brake parts cleaner and shop towels.
I will follow up with a question on the valve that I have after this post.
Before I put this thing back together here is where I'm at. As states above the cap for the spool valve that is the spool valve lowest on the control valve block (spool valve closest to the bottom of the machine) is held on by a keeper. I went to the bocat parts dealer and bought two new seals (one for the front and one for the back) The guy said that is the only two seals on the valve. He said the shaft looked good and there was no need to buff it as they had no score marks of any kind. He said the cap that has the bearings that will fly out is just bearings and springs and no need to take apart or do anything to. He told me to just clean it off with lots of parts cleaner and put it back in and showed me what direction to put the seals. That is easy enough.
My questions comes in about the insides of the caps that I'm told by him not to remove. Is it ture that the onlyu thing in there is springs and the bearings that will shoot out? I have read others that said their spool valves were sticking or not operating right. Remeber this all started by the spool valve (not the one with bearings) right belw the aux spool valve was shooting a stream of fluid out the rear cap. I told him this and he said does that when the seals are worn but that just doesnt make sense to me. I would hate to get it all back together to find out I should have shot grease or something at least in the caps where I'm told there is just springs and bearings? Is there anything I should do or just do what the bobcat parts guys said and leave it alone? Or should I leave it in place without taking it apart and is there any grease I should try to wedge in there at all?
Mikefromcny
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 13, 2011
- Messages
- 352
Ahh yes, I have the same dilemma with my 873. Its slowly leaking out of the control valve when working the boom or bucket. Not looking forward to it.
It is a headache of a job but I think my was so bad bc it was compounded by my first time doing it, the stripped out allen screw causing me to have to cut the side of the machine and trying to work around stuff I should have just pulled off from the start like everything shown in the pic above.
I forgot to mention keeping a bunch of zip lock bags including the large freezer bags to keep everything including the spool valves in once you pull them. It keeps everything together and allows you to clean up without a bunch of debris flying on to your parts.
Mike, I'm curious as to why my shoots out as shown in the youtube link at the start of this post and why yours would seep out? If anyone knows please post so us newbies can kind of understand what is going on.
Also mine was shooting out at all times as soon as you started the machine it didnt matter if it was sitting still or moving or lifting.
