T L 130 2004 won't move

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excavate1111

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Joined
Oct 26, 2009
Messages
5
lift arm switch is ok. I checked that out, starts and runs but won't move ??? it started to do it once in awhile now it just stopped mid push? any ideas???
 

sandhills-elect

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Sep 26, 2007
Messages
120
Will it do anything such as loader arms or bucket? You check the switch on the lap bar right? Any filter lights on or anything? give more ifo if you can. Brent.
 
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excavate1111

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Joined
Oct 26, 2009
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5
Will it do anything such as loader arms or bucket? You check the switch on the lap bar right? Any filter lights on or anything? give more ifo if you can. Brent.
nothing moves it starts right up ! no loader arms or bucket won't move I unhooked the switch tried that then jumped it to see if that would do it nothing there are no lights on either although they may not work?
 

sandhills-elect

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Sep 26, 2007
Messages
120
nothing moves it starts right up ! no loader arms or bucket won't move I unhooked the switch tried that then jumped it to see if that would do it nothing there are no lights on either although they may not work?
Did you check fuses, it may just be blown fuse, if you have no power to the switch it would do no good to jump it, it said in my book to check blown fuses. I would start there. There is a main screen filter under cab that needs changed every 500 hours with the main filter in the back, but i think things would not have just quit if it was that unless major problem occured. I really think it might be a fuse, sounds silly but easy fix. It could also be your engine to pump attachment. Start it up with cab up and see if your pump feels like it is running if it is not the fuse. Just some thoughts. Let me know what you find Brent.
 
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excavate1111

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Oct 26, 2009
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Did you check fuses, it may just be blown fuse, if you have no power to the switch it would do no good to jump it, it said in my book to check blown fuses. I would start there. There is a main screen filter under cab that needs changed every 500 hours with the main filter in the back, but i think things would not have just quit if it was that unless major problem occured. I really think it might be a fuse, sounds silly but easy fix. It could also be your engine to pump attachment. Start it up with cab up and see if your pump feels like it is running if it is not the fuse. Just some thoughts. Let me know what you find Brent.
I checked the fuses and they all look good ? are there any other fuses beside the main panel in the cab? I jumped the wire after i disconnected it. if the warning lights aren't working would the warning signal shut down the drive?
 

sandhills-elect

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Sep 26, 2007
Messages
120
I checked the fuses and they all look good ? are there any other fuses beside the main panel in the cab? I jumped the wire after i disconnected it. if the warning lights aren't working would the warning signal shut down the drive?
If you have a test light make sure you have power at fuse block. There are some fuse links a the back just above the battery. I would first check power at the fuse that controls safty switches making sure the block has power, then make sure you have power to the safty switch and through and back. Do you have a manual so you know fuse layout. Mine is a 2003 so i don't know if it is the same. Mine has a 10a (saftey relay generator) and a 30a (arm float, lever lock, auxiliary). Instrument panel and feed pump is a 15a. Will your horn work and lights or any of that. That may tell ya if you have power to the block, if you did not have power to block i wouldn't think it would even start. If you have no electrical problems i would say you have a pump connection problem or something like that. Good luck Brent.
 

sandhills-elect

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 26, 2007
Messages
120
If you have a test light make sure you have power at fuse block. There are some fuse links a the back just above the battery. I would first check power at the fuse that controls safty switches making sure the block has power, then make sure you have power to the safty switch and through and back. Do you have a manual so you know fuse layout. Mine is a 2003 so i don't know if it is the same. Mine has a 10a (saftey relay generator) and a 30a (arm float, lever lock, auxiliary). Instrument panel and feed pump is a 15a. Will your horn work and lights or any of that. That may tell ya if you have power to the block, if you did not have power to block i wouldn't think it would even start. If you have no electrical problems i would say you have a pump connection problem or something like that. Good luck Brent.
Did you figure anything out? just wanted to know how you came out, i hope with good luck. Brent.
 
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excavate1111

Member
Joined
Oct 26, 2009
Messages
5
No idea if its direct or belt drive, but if its belt drive to the pump, the belt may have broken?
*shrug* just a thought.
I think its got to be electrical it was intermitent now its just stopped! I havent had time to fool around with it tomorrow if I dont get side tracked
 
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excavate1111

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Joined
Oct 26, 2009
Messages
5
I think its got to be electrical it was intermitent now its just stopped! I havent had time to fool around with it tomorrow if I dont get side tracked
so I noticed that it was a little low on anti freeze filled it up before I started it and away she goes? this thing has a mind of its own, none of the lights work!!
 

free skakel

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Joined
Aug 28, 2010
Messages
5
so I noticed that it was a little low on anti freeze filled it up before I started it and away she goes? this thing has a mind of its own, none of the lights work!!
i realize this is an old post but it just happened to me and another friends, after spending hours ripping the machine apart and figuring out it wasnt the $80 proximity sensor , these wiring harnesses are double fed to save space, hence all the diodes, in front of your feet theres a box with four bolts, these are your relays, the safty relay (seatbar, and seat optional) the three smaller ones its in the middle, this wasnt the problem because the other relay (bigger ones) poweres up the safty relay, its a lazy relay and there always on back order, you can kick it to keep it working, you will also know this is the problem if your hogh to low speed switch lights up but wont engage or your float switch doesnt work, hope this helps any one with futer problems
 

bdunn

New member
Joined
Aug 7, 2012
Messages
3
i realize this is an old post but it just happened to me and another friends, after spending hours ripping the machine apart and figuring out it wasnt the $80 proximity sensor , these wiring harnesses are double fed to save space, hence all the diodes, in front of your feet theres a box with four bolts, these are your relays, the safty relay (seatbar, and seat optional) the three smaller ones its in the middle, this wasnt the problem because the other relay (bigger ones) poweres up the safty relay, its a lazy relay and there always on back order, you can kick it to keep it working, you will also know this is the problem if your hogh to low speed switch lights up but wont engage or your float switch doesnt work, hope this helps any one with futer problems
do you have any idea what could cause one to shut down almost immediatly after start up.
 

HandyMoe

Member
Joined
Oct 6, 2014
Messages
22
do you have any idea what could cause one to shut down almost immediatly after start up.
If it shuts down immediately after startup it could be a coolant temp sensor or the fuel solenoid is set wrong. I had that issue on a TL140 not too long ago.
 
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