Worn out bucket pivot pins?

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Off Road SHO

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Sep 15, 2016
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The bottom pins that the bucket rolls back on always seem to wear the fastest. What is the process called to bore out the sloppy oval holes to a bigger size with corresponding larger pins? Is it called Line boring? I'd like to get quotes from different shop around Phoenix to have this done. Thanks in advance. Tom
 

SkidRoe

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Dec 10, 2009
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I reamed mine out and sleeved them back to stock size, then fitted a new set of pins.
If your machine is a Bobcat, I am not sure where you would find a set of oversized pins.
HTH - SR
 

Tazza

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I reamed mine out and sleeved them back to stock size, then fitted a new set of pins.
If your machine is a Bobcat, I am not sure where you would find a set of oversized pins.
HTH - SR
If you're talking about the bobtach part, the part that tilts and not the arms where the tapered pins lock in place, they do wear. The issue with boring them out is, you need to bore them straight, you have no reference to be able to make both sides are exactly the same. You may be able to get lucky if the machinist is good, they can throw it on a horozontal mill and line it all up the best they can.
The way i have done it is to remove the old bosses with a grinder, plasma cutter and a lot of spare time. I then mounted the bobtach back up with the new bosses/pins. The taper in the arms will hold the pins straight and then i welded the bosses into place. Go slow or the metal can twist somewhat.
 

SkidRoe

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If you're talking about the bobtach part, the part that tilts and not the arms where the tapered pins lock in place, they do wear. The issue with boring them out is, you need to bore them straight, you have no reference to be able to make both sides are exactly the same. You may be able to get lucky if the machinist is good, they can throw it on a horozontal mill and line it all up the best they can.
The way i have done it is to remove the old bosses with a grinder, plasma cutter and a lot of spare time. I then mounted the bobtach back up with the new bosses/pins. The taper in the arms will hold the pins straight and then i welded the bosses into place. Go slow or the metal can twist somewhat.
I did mine on a very large engine lathe, basically using it like a boring mill. To get it straight, I indicated the outside diameter of the housings, then shimmed it accordingly to fine tune it.
I reamed the sleeves 0.005" oversize to allow for grease clearance, and to take up any misalignment that may have occurred.
It all fit back together beautifully, and has been working flawlessly for the last 5 years. I also reamed and sleeved the bucket tilt cylinder, as it was badly worn too.
Tazza is absolutely correct with his method. Bobcat does sell the pin housings as a weld-in spare part.
Cheers - SR
 

Tazza

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I did mine on a very large engine lathe, basically using it like a boring mill. To get it straight, I indicated the outside diameter of the housings, then shimmed it accordingly to fine tune it.
I reamed the sleeves 0.005" oversize to allow for grease clearance, and to take up any misalignment that may have occurred.
It all fit back together beautifully, and has been working flawlessly for the last 5 years. I also reamed and sleeved the bucket tilt cylinder, as it was badly worn too.
Tazza is absolutely correct with his method. Bobcat does sell the pin housings as a weld-in spare part.
Cheers - SR
Using that method, you could technically use something like a mag drill to do it, the adjustments would be the hardest part, but doable.
 

SkidRoe

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Messages
1,885
Using that method, you could technically use something like a mag drill to do it, the adjustments would be the hardest part, but doable.
I think I saw OldMachinist do that exact thing on one of his old posts.
Cheers - SR
 

rodbuilder

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Mar 6, 2015
Messages
236
They have bushings in the holes! Press them out and go to ebay and buy new ones. They're about $7.00 each and you can drive them back in with a hammer and something soft to cushion the blow.
 
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