What to look 4 when bying used skid steer?

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smcgill

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Mar 13, 2015
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Hello I'm looking to by a used bobcat skid steer. What should I look 4 when buying a used skid steer? Is there a check list..I know that would be too simple.. What would I check for... and what is bad.. Very novice here.. I don't want to look to green when looking any machine. Thanks for any help from every one. Sean
 

Bobcatdan

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First off, never trust anything that's been repainted, that is almost always hiding something. Test run it until it gets to insure everything works proper. From there, pay to have a dealer inspect it. If the seller has nothing to hide, there shouldn't be a problem arranging it. Once you have the results, decide if still want it and haggle from there.
 

farmshop

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First off, never trust anything that's been repainted, that is almost always hiding something. Test run it until it gets to insure everything works proper. From there, pay to have a dealer inspect it. If the seller has nothing to hide, there shouldn't be a problem arranging it. Once you have the results, decide if still want it and haggle from there.
Look for welds or welds that dont match that may have been painted over. I would run it checking for loose pivot pins. Also look at the quick atatch to see if it is bent up. Look for puddles under the machine and look at the condition of the fluids are they the proper color or do they look milkey or dirty. I always like to look at a machine un announced if possible to see how it will start cold
 

wbecker

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Look for welds or welds that dont match that may have been painted over. I would run it checking for loose pivot pins. Also look at the quick atatch to see if it is bent up. Look for puddles under the machine and look at the condition of the fluids are they the proper color or do they look milkey or dirty. I always like to look at a machine un announced if possible to see how it will start cold
Best idea is have a Bobcat dealer check it out, as mentioned by Bobcatdan!!!!!! I you are not going to do that: Pick the front wheels off the ground with the bucket and check to see how much rotation they have with the back wheels on the ground, this tells you how much the chains are worn/stretched. I think 1 inch may be ok, hope bobcatdan has a number for this, I am not an expert. Does the machine creep when the engine is running and controls are neutral? You didn't say how much you were spending, that would help. If it's a 743 or 743B, unless it's been done recently expect to replace the Universal joint, (will need to pull the engine). If it's a 743 an axle leak is trouble, not so bad if a 743B. If it's a 751, I think it may not have a Kubota engine, that's not good. Lift the cab on any of them and look. Is it full of dirt? dirt has moisture and causes rust. Look at the engine compartment, is it packed with dirt etc? is it oily? is it relatively clean? Give more info on what you intend to spend and you might get more detailed advice. Bill B
 

Bobcatdan

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Best idea is have a Bobcat dealer check it out, as mentioned by Bobcatdan!!!!!! I you are not going to do that: Pick the front wheels off the ground with the bucket and check to see how much rotation they have with the back wheels on the ground, this tells you how much the chains are worn/stretched. I think 1 inch may be ok, hope bobcatdan has a number for this, I am not an expert. Does the machine creep when the engine is running and controls are neutral? You didn't say how much you were spending, that would help. If it's a 743 or 743B, unless it's been done recently expect to replace the Universal joint, (will need to pull the engine). If it's a 743 an axle leak is trouble, not so bad if a 743B. If it's a 751, I think it may not have a Kubota engine, that's not good. Lift the cab on any of them and look. Is it full of dirt? dirt has moisture and causes rust. Look at the engine compartment, is it packed with dirt etc? is it oily? is it relatively clean? Give more info on what you intend to spend and you might get more detailed advice. Bill B
I don't use spinning the wheel back as a good gauge of chain play as it really varies. If you can move it back a forth enough that you can hear the chain slap the case, then yes those are pretty worn. Also with the wheel up in the air, see if there is in and out play. Any at all is a sign of bearing play that will need to be addressed. To give the best tips is for the OP to state exactly what model he is looking at. That can narrow down the points to look real close at.
 

farmshop

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I don't use spinning the wheel back as a good gauge of chain play as it really varies. If you can move it back a forth enough that you can hear the chain slap the case, then yes those are pretty worn. Also with the wheel up in the air, see if there is in and out play. Any at all is a sign of bearing play that will need to be addressed. To give the best tips is for the OP to state exactly what model he is looking at. That can narrow down the points to look real close at.
We have put thousands of hours on bobcats and never had chain problems never broke one. We broke the hub loose from the sprocket once but just welded that. put a couple bearings in.
 
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smcgill

smcgill

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Mar 13, 2015
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I don't use spinning the wheel back as a good gauge of chain play as it really varies. If you can move it back a forth enough that you can hear the chain slap the case, then yes those are pretty worn. Also with the wheel up in the air, see if there is in and out play. Any at all is a sign of bearing play that will need to be addressed. To give the best tips is for the OP to state exactly what model he is looking at. That can narrow down the points to look real close at.
I haven't found one the wife is confi with hrs $ etc. When the time comes to look these idea's will help. Keep them coming! Thanks Sean
 

brdgbldr

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I haven't found one the wife is confi with hrs $ etc. When the time comes to look these idea's will help. Keep them coming! Thanks Sean
This may seem obvious, but check the hydro oil level. I go to a lot of auctions and am always amazed to see people start up equipment that I have allready seen has no fluid in the spy glass or is low on the dip stick. This can be a good indicator of leaks and of course if someone has run it dry it's toast. I won't go near a machine with low hydro fluid in it.
 

bobcatguy

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Oct 31, 2014
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I haven't found one the wife is confi with hrs $ etc. When the time comes to look these idea's will help. Keep them coming! Thanks Sean
1. Start the machine, lower the seat bar press the green button and run the throttle up to check for creep at low and high rps 2. Drive the machine and then stop. Again run rpm up high and low and make sure it doesn't creep 3. Remove the bucket and lift on the quick attach where it attaches at the boom. You're checking for up down play in the pins 4. Push and pull the quick attach up by the tilt cylinder/cylinders to check for pin wear. It will sometimes wiggle at the rod itself but it shouldn't move much visibly at the pin location 5. Put the bucket back on and use it to lift the front of the machine. Get out and grab each front tire an move it clockwise and counter clockwise and check for chain play. It can move slightly but if you hear the chain hitting on the bottom of the chain case when you do this, that's bad. Pull out on the wheels and push in. There should be no end play 6. Bring a floor jack or 8x8 block of wood. If using a block of wood put it under the machine and again use the bucket to lift the front. At a point the back tires will come off the ground too. Now get out and check the back tires. 7. Once you've got the machine on the ground, wiggle the machine side to side and see if there's much boom play. They will wiggle but it shouldn't be excessive. 8. Roll the cab up and inspect the belly for leaks and you can also inspect the steel lines under the cab. 9. Test the parking brake for operation 10. Make sure the engine doesn't blow smoke throughout the run. They will normally have a puff of smoke on start up and again when you throttle up but it should clear. 11. When operating the machine should track straight. If you find you have to correct to one side or the other it can be a steering adjustment. 12. Inspect the boom for any cracks or welds. Different models have different points that will crack so it would help to know which model you're looking at to tell you where exactly to look. 13. If you can put a load on the bucket do so and curl the bucket and make sure it holds and doesn't leak down. Once you've done this do the same for the lift. You don't have to go too high. I normally raise them up about 1 or 2 feet. I'm probably missing some things but this is my general inspection when I buy machines.
 

bobcatguy

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Oct 31, 2014
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1. Start the machine, lower the seat bar press the green button and run the throttle up to check for creep at low and high rps 2. Drive the machine and then stop. Again run rpm up high and low and make sure it doesn't creep 3. Remove the bucket and lift on the quick attach where it attaches at the boom. You're checking for up down play in the pins 4. Push and pull the quick attach up by the tilt cylinder/cylinders to check for pin wear. It will sometimes wiggle at the rod itself but it shouldn't move much visibly at the pin location 5. Put the bucket back on and use it to lift the front of the machine. Get out and grab each front tire an move it clockwise and counter clockwise and check for chain play. It can move slightly but if you hear the chain hitting on the bottom of the chain case when you do this, that's bad. Pull out on the wheels and push in. There should be no end play 6. Bring a floor jack or 8x8 block of wood. If using a block of wood put it under the machine and again use the bucket to lift the front. At a point the back tires will come off the ground too. Now get out and check the back tires. 7. Once you've got the machine on the ground, wiggle the machine side to side and see if there's much boom play. They will wiggle but it shouldn't be excessive. 8. Roll the cab up and inspect the belly for leaks and you can also inspect the steel lines under the cab. 9. Test the parking brake for operation 10. Make sure the engine doesn't blow smoke throughout the run. They will normally have a puff of smoke on start up and again when you throttle up but it should clear. 11. When operating the machine should track straight. If you find you have to correct to one side or the other it can be a steering adjustment. 12. Inspect the boom for any cracks or welds. Different models have different points that will crack so it would help to know which model you're looking at to tell you where exactly to look. 13. If you can put a load on the bucket do so and curl the bucket and make sure it holds and doesn't leak down. Once you've done this do the same for the lift. You don't have to go too high. I normally raise them up about 1 or 2 feet. I'm probably missing some things but this is my general inspection when I buy machines.
I'm curious how much you're looking to spend and what size machine you're looking for. I have a really nice G series 863 for sale with 1468 hours on it.
 

bobcatguy

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Oct 31, 2014
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Bobcatguy Were are you located?
Delphos, Ohio, You? If you want to see the machine, I have it advertised on Craigslist in Fort Wayne Indiana Just go to CL FT Wayne and type in Bobcat 863. Mine will pop up with the location Delphos. My phone number is on the listing. Some things I don't mention in the ad. I replaced both pintle levers because one was worn, replaced the battery, replaced the tilt cylinder to bobtatch pin and bushing and replaced the pickup tube and screen.
 
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smcgill

smcgill

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Mar 13, 2015
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Delphos, Ohio, You? If you want to see the machine, I have it advertised on Craigslist in Fort Wayne Indiana Just go to CL FT Wayne and type in Bobcat 863. Mine will pop up with the location Delphos. My phone number is on the listing. Some things I don't mention in the ad. I replaced both pintle levers because one was worn, replaced the battery, replaced the tilt cylinder to bobtatch pin and bushing and replaced the pickup tube and screen.
I should of known. I'm still in the snow in Massachusetts!
 

bobcatguy

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Oct 31, 2014
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I should of known. I'm still in the snow in Massachusetts!
Snow? We've got nice green grass. I'm probably going to have to mow tomorrow. What part of Mass? I have a sister that lives on the Cape in the summer and on Nantucket during the school year.
 
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smcgill

smcgill

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Snow? We've got nice green grass. I'm probably going to have to mow tomorrow. What part of Mass? I have a sister that lives on the Cape in the summer and on Nantucket during the school year.
I'm in Easton not to far from Gillette stadium. Mom and Pop are on the cape...they can have it.
 

bobcatguy

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I'm in Easton not to far from Gillette stadium. Mom and Pop are on the cape...they can have it.
I spent some time on the Cape. It's okay to visit but that's about it in my opinion. Narrow down what machine you're looking for and I can try to give you some specifics on what to look for. My list above does a pretty good job of identifying a good machine. I've never missed using that check list. Main thing to do I'd say is focus on a "G" series machine. It's harder to mess with the hours on those because the hours are stored in the computer. If you're looking at single tilt cylinder machines like the 753,763 and 863 check the "dog house" that holds the tilt cylinder, check that there are no cracks in the boom up by the pin that attaches the cylinder to the boom. The 873's tended to crack back by the lift cylinders where they attach to the boom. One thing I always do is have the serial number checked against the stolen list at a bobcat dealer. You can also check the serial number with the Sherriff's office. I also try to run a UCC check but those get a little sketchy. If you zero in on machine, there are some paid services that you can run the serial number for loans or liens and it checks for stolen too. I think it costs about $150 per machine for the service. Good luck in your search.
 
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