Universal Oil 10W30 API SE CD

[AlphaBob]

Any oil recommendations? My machine uses universal oil - i.e. same stuff in engine, hydraulic system and chain boxes and takes slightly over 13 gallons. I'll probably go with synthetic for the engine (2+ gallons, 1700-hour Kubota V1903) and that oil will most likely be rated API CG-4 SH (the newest API codes for 4-stroke diesel - CG-4; and automotive - SH). Problem is that I probably won't be able to afford synthetic for the other 11 gallons I need (hydraulic and final drives). The company tech (its a Thomas machine) suggested using the oil with only the automotive rating (i.e. API SH) for the hydraulic and final drives and concentrating on the CG-4 rating for the engine only. Question #1 - this sound reasonable? Question #2 - anyone know of a reasonably priced synthetic or non-synthetic that I could use on the entire machine? Question #3 - any reason I wouldn't want to use synthetic in the Kubota V1903? This is the same engine used in the Bobcat 751. I haven't had much luck yet and any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!

 

[Tazza]

The 751 series ran a Peugeot engine and not Kubota, there was a retrofit kit to convert it to use a V2203 though.
I personally use RX super on the engine (diesel grade) and have used it the chain case and hydraulics. Any standard engine oil will work just fine in the chain case no matter how cheap, all the parts are slow moving. The hydraulics i have used RX super too without issues.
I personally wouldn't run synthetic as you get an oil leak from a blown hose, its far too expensive to just loose.

 

[AlphaBob]

The 751 series ran a Peugeot engine and not Kubota, there was a retrofit kit to convert it to use a V2203 though.
I personally use RX super on the engine (diesel grade) and have used it the chain case and hydraulics. Any standard engine oil will work just fine in the chain case no matter how cheap, all the parts are slow moving. The hydraulics i have used RX super too without issues.
I personally wouldn't run synthetic as you get an oil leak from a blown hose, its far too expensive to just loose.

Tazza, Thanks for the quick response. I like the Castrol products and use 5W30 GTX in my autos. The most common RX Super looks like SAE 15W-40, API CI-4 which is probably what I'll run in my engine. The Kubota website says that 15W-40 can be substituted for the 10W-30 if 10W-30 can't be found, and 10W-30 diesel if pretty rare over here - Amsoil ($32 USD/gallon) is the only one I've identified to date. Also, I agree with you on the synthetic - I like to change the oil frequently anyway and based on this, the synthetic probably doesn't offer a big advantage. Related to the hydraulics - anybody have any suggestions related to using a high-grade 15W-40 diesel oil that also has an API auto rating (like SJ) in the hydraulic system? Again, the manufacturer originally spec'd 10W-30 CD (old diesel API rating) SE (old gasoline API rating). (1) So I"m wondering if I could simply use 15W-40 CI-4 SJ in the entire machine (engine, hydraulics and final [chain] drives)? or (2) Alternately, could I use an SJ-only (i.e. no diesel rating) in the hydraulics and final drives?

 

[Butters]

Tazza, Thanks for the quick response. I like the Castrol products and use 5W30 GTX in my autos. The most common RX Super looks like SAE 15W-40, API CI-4 which is probably what I'll run in my engine. The Kubota website says that 15W-40 can be substituted for the 10W-30 if 10W-30 can't be found, and 10W-30 diesel if pretty rare over here - Amsoil ($32 USD/gallon) is the only one I've identified to date. Also, I agree with you on the synthetic - I like to change the oil frequently anyway and based on this, the synthetic probably doesn't offer a big advantage. Related to the hydraulics - anybody have any suggestions related to using a high-grade 15W-40 diesel oil that also has an API auto rating (like SJ) in the hydraulic system? Again, the manufacturer originally spec'd 10W-30 CD (old diesel API rating) SE (old gasoline API rating). (1) So I"m wondering if I could simply use 15W-40 CI-4 SJ in the entire machine (engine, hydraulics and final [chain] drives)? or (2) Alternately, could I use an SJ-only (i.e. no diesel rating) in the hydraulics and final drives?

Tazza, how is that 751 rebuild coming along?
751-C series like mine had Peugeot engines, later series D or E of the 751 did have Kubota engines. If it is a shiny aluminum block engine, it is the Peugeot, if it has a blue or other color engine it is probably the Kubota. It is impreative to find out because the air and oil filters wont interchange, guess how I found out?

 

[skidsteer.ca]

Tazza, Thanks for the quick response. I like the Castrol products and use 5W30 GTX in my autos. The most common RX Super looks like SAE 15W-40, API CI-4 which is probably what I'll run in my engine. The Kubota website says that 15W-40 can be substituted for the 10W-30 if 10W-30 can't be found, and 10W-30 diesel if pretty rare over here - Amsoil ($32 USD/gallon) is the only one I've identified to date. Also, I agree with you on the synthetic - I like to change the oil frequently anyway and based on this, the synthetic probably doesn't offer a big advantage. Related to the hydraulics - anybody have any suggestions related to using a high-grade 15W-40 diesel oil that also has an API auto rating (like SJ) in the hydraulic system? Again, the manufacturer originally spec'd 10W-30 CD (old diesel API rating) SE (old gasoline API rating). (1) So I"m wondering if I could simply use 15W-40 CI-4 SJ in the entire machine (engine, hydraulics and final [chain] drives)? or (2) Alternately, could I use an SJ-only (i.e. no diesel rating) in the hydraulics and final drives?

Alphabob
15/40would be fine everywhere provided you don't get much below +10 fahrenheit weather.
It turns to tar around 0 far and at -20 you can't hardly pour it. It would be fine if you can park in doors at these temps or if your climate does not experience these extremes.
Thick oil puts alot of extra drag on the pumps and engine at startup and can cause oil starvaton because of lack of flow at cold temps.
Ken

 

[Bandit1047]

Alphabob
15/40would be fine everywhere provided you don't get much below +10 fahrenheit weather.
It turns to tar around 0 far and at -20 you can't hardly pour it. It would be fine if you can park in doors at these temps or if your climate does not experience these extremes.
Thick oil puts alot of extra drag on the pumps and engine at startup and can cause oil starvaton because of lack of flow at cold temps.
Ken

If your engine has a turbo charger, please go to the "Myth" section and read why you should be using sythetic oil in your engine. Synthetic oil will clean the inside of your engine or hydraulic system, so if you have a machine with over 500 hours on it, do the following.
Change your oil and filter, run the machine for 25 hours, drain and change the filter and oil.
You can now extend the drain intervals by 25% using synthetic oil. This is for normal use.
If you run in an extreme enviroment, change your fluids accordingly.
This also applies if you switch to synthetic hydraulic oil.
Joe

 

[Thomastech]

If your engine has a turbo charger, please go to the "Myth" section and read why you should be using sythetic oil in your engine. Synthetic oil will clean the inside of your engine or hydraulic system, so if you have a machine with over 500 hours on it, do the following.
Change your oil and filter, run the machine for 25 hours, drain and change the filter and oil.
You can now extend the drain intervals by 25% using synthetic oil. This is for normal use.
If you run in an extreme enviroment, change your fluids accordingly.
This also applies if you switch to synthetic hydraulic oil.
Joe

When we talked on the phone the other day, I was specifying the API rating on the oil for you so that you would know how to distinguish between the different types of oil. When you have a diesel engine, you need to be sure to use an oil with a API rating of "C" example CG and when you have a spark ignition engine you need to use an oil with an API rating of "S" example SH. All the oil we use in our hydraulics is the same as we use in the engine with the difference being in the fact that we pre filter the oil to a cleanliness level of ISO 17/12 to prevent damage to the tight tolerances in the hydraulic components. All oil which is added during daily checks, and services should also be prefiltered to reduce the risk of component failure due to contaminants. The -4 oil is for the newer tier engines which are designed to meet certain standards set by the EPA for emission levels. Here is a link to read up more on API classifications, http://www.finalube.com/reference_material/API_Engine_Oil_Classifications.htm

 

[Tazza]

When we talked on the phone the other day, I was specifying the API rating on the oil for you so that you would know how to distinguish between the different types of oil. When you have a diesel engine, you need to be sure to use an oil with a API rating of "C" example CG and when you have a spark ignition engine you need to use an oil with an API rating of "S" example SH. All the oil we use in our hydraulics is the same as we use in the engine with the difference being in the fact that we pre filter the oil to a cleanliness level of ISO 17/12 to prevent damage to the tight tolerances in the hydraulic components. All oil which is added during daily checks, and services should also be prefiltered to reduce the risk of component failure due to contaminants. The -4 oil is for the newer tier engines which are designed to meet certain standards set by the EPA for emission levels. Here is a link to read up more on API classifications, http://www.finalube.com/reference_material/API_Engine_Oil_Classifications.htm

Butters - the 751 is coming along pretty well actually. The only issue i currently have is the pan on the sump seems to be leaking!!!! Its not a bad leak but on a machine that was totally striped down its a bit of a pain that something so simple has an oil leak... It can be fixed, but i may need to pull the engine and pump to do it.
I too found out the filters are not the same... I bought 3 and found out the only fit the Kubota engines.... But i do have another one that uses the same filter so its not all bad.
I really should take some pictures, i actually took it out to dig some dirt on Saturday. The dirt is a little wet so i just made a mess, now my rims are covered in mud as is the bucket, with large chunks still stuck in it, i need to wait for it to dry out a little. All in all, its a pretty powerful machine, it scoots up the hill much faster than the 743, i haven't been able to test the pushing power very well as its too slippery.