I know this has probably been discussed 1000 times but i am in despirate help now. I have an 1998 751 and i have got to get the seals changed on this cylinder as fast as i can. i have the seal kit and i cannot get the aluminum nut off. I started on it last night and had no success. The holes where the spanner wrench tool had been messed up by the previous owner so that is not going to work. I have it in my vice and have tried a pipe wrench on it it will still not budge. The pipe wrench is on the aluminum only and it is not on the cylinder tube and have sprayed aerokroil on it and let it sit over night and have even had the pipe wrench on it all night with a cheater pipe on it with a motor cycle strap holding pressure on it via strapping it down on my metal table. Can i heat up the end of the cylinder or will that screw up the aluminum. I really need to get this off as soon as possible, can somebody PLEASE give me an idea. Thanks
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I was hoping to be able to get this off without messing it up because i have got to be able to put it back together this morning because i have to use it this morning and there is not a dealer close to me to be able to go get another one
If you can get it out without udderly destroying it, I don't think heat a lone with bother it. I never got the barrel hot enough to see any signs of heat damage to the guild. Guilds I used over after heating never bit me. If all eles fails, put it back on the skidsteer for now to get what you need done.
Thanks, I finally got it off with out any heat but it was a pain in the a$$ and the threads are not in the best of shape but I think I can get it back on but I think I am going to put a little never seize on it. I just put the seal kit on it but I have a little small o ring that I have no idea where it goes, does anybody know Thanks
The little boring is probably to go behind the piston on the the rod. If yours didn't have it, I wouldn't worry. The seal kits are universal between cylinder with the same diameter.
Heating up the very end of the cylinder usually will break up any corrosion that is in between the threads or it will help burn the old / hard O-rings while trying to turn the "head", as my local BOBCAT dealer calls it. I would suggest cleaning up the threads before trying to reassemble everything. You will probably find that the aluminum head threads are more forgiving than you think.
Thanks for all of the help. I did finally get it apart an put the new seals in and got it all back together and ran it for almost 6 hours today and never had one leak. Thanks again
What I've used and had excellent luck with is a chain wrench. It adjusts to fit any cylinder and the chain grips the entire circumference of the gland nut. It allows for a lot of torque to be applied and creates little damage. Their cheap and good to keep around in the tool box.
On the 753 tilt cylinder I re-packed, I could not get a good enough "bite" on the head to remove it with a chain wrench. My wrench did not have enough to grip before slipping off. I tried it a few times, but no luck. I had to heat the $hit out of it & use a punch to drive it about 1/32 of a turn at a time. After enough revolutions, I finally gained enough momentum to remove it by hand. It was a real PITA. I replaced the head as there was NO way to reinstall it = I KILLED IT! After I was done, I was honestly blown away by how easy it was to reseal. I was always mis-led by our local hydraulic repair shops as they would say it is too hard to do with just simple hand tools & so on and on!! However, I was somewhat amazed that it was o simple & straight forward to do, so long as the nothing gets damaged & it comes apart easily. I'm very glad that you got it all back together and everything worked out for you. It feels good doesn't it??? ROCK ON!!!
Mikefromcny
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I laugh that your local hyd shop said they couldn't be done with simple tools. Thats all I've ever used. Usually a pipe wrench to get the grand unthreaded, my pin spanners usually just pop out of the holes. Remove piston nut with a wrench. Use picks to remove o-rings, seals and cups. Clean, reassemble, done. Repacked a grapple bucket cylinder a few weeks ago. $12 for the seal kit shipped to my door, doesn't get any better!
Among all of the common tools that make these jobs very easy are a set of picks. A pipe wrench & vice designed to hold pipe are also very useful. I like the idea of using a steel table that can hold a come-a-long. It is very helpful for that table to have a drain system for the fluid that spills / drips out. I'm looking to get a good table soon, but for now, I re-pack these cylinders while they are still attached to the machine. I'm saving up for that "tear-down" / mechanic's table. They are kinda hard to find in stainless steel form.
SkidRoe
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I built a bench about 25 years ago, using a stainless steel restaurant countertop from a scrap yard. Cheap way to get a SS bench.
Cheers - SR
That's exactly where I was sourcing a table from. I've found a few near by, but I don't have anywhere to keep it. I have a small yard that I work out of. I'm hoping to change that very soon, though. Does your table have a sink-like sloping drain feature? That is what I'm really wanting.
7LBSSMALLIE
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A= the part that threads in is called a GLAND. B= typically once it gets pipe wrenched or chain wrenched it usually toast. if pin holes are elonagated new holes can be drilled and worst case tapped to accept a bolt. albeit some times they will not come apart. note.. you got 2inches of fine thread female steel threads. acceptinining 2inches of a dissimilar metal (as in allum gland) galvinnistic corrosion does apply here. hrs = money, yea it will come apart. might go easy might go hard. but 100 bucks an hr where do you stop. at that point you get price on cyl replacement. compare that to price of gland. and seal kit. and labour.. so where do you stop the bleedining. note . you cant really tell if rod is bent until completely dissembled.. example spend 2 hrs gettining apart = 200 find gland scored 79. seal kit 35 rod bent395. in summary give it youre best effort for 30 minutes if it wont come apart replace it.. don't throw good money after bad. and if its been pipe wrenched or chain wrenched. save youre 50 bucks towards a new one
I have put a lot of hours on it since I packed put the new seals in and it has not started leaking anymore and there is pipe wrench marks all the way around it. If it starts leaking again, I will repack it and I will put a new nut on it
SkidRoe
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There was a sink in one side of it, but we cut that end off. We already have an industrial solvent wash tank. If we did not have that, we would have possibly kept the sink.
That is a great use for the sink area. I'm not sure how long it might have taken me to come up with that idea. (I use a lot of brake clean in the 16 oz. spray cans!!)
