Hello all. Been doing some reading here and have found some good tips to eliminate down time when operating a skid steer, such as, a small arsenal of spare parts, daily maintenance.....was wondering if anyone has other pointers or "tech tips" they would like to share. Also any tips on the maintenance side when working on the machine that may save time or cost less $$$$. Thanks in advance
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1)Inspect and clean/replace the case drain filters each season. Debris will alert you to other problems looming, or set your mind at ease if there isn't any.
2) Drain the chaincase annually. I drill and tap a hole in the front bottom of all my machines so that all one has to do is "pull the plug".
3)Change the hyd filter annually, and change the hyd oil frequently--we change it annually also, but I know many people don't (we have never had a hyd/hydro failure, so I think an annual change certainly has paid dividends for us)
4) We change the coolant every other year--again, many people don't.
5) If turbo'ed, check the turbo and exhaust manifold bolts. We have had them work loose.
6) "Open 'em up and clean 'em out"--tip the cab/rollcage back and clean out the dried mud, sand, sticks, etc that will accumulate way down under everything. We blow out and then CAREFULLY wash it out. I have found that spraying with "gunk" or something similar allows you to clean everything up with a lot less water pressure. Remove the side panels that allow access to the hydros for better access if needed.
7) Check the fan gearbox lube level. We have had to "speedy sleeve" a couple of our machines where the shaft comes out of the gearbox.
8) Check the hoses for rubbing/wear. Power bobtach hoses especially.
9) Check the main drive belt and idler--we have had idlers fail in as little as 500 hrs.
10) Blow out the alternator occasionally--I've seen them jammed full of dust and debris.
11) KEEP THE ENGINE AIR FILTER CLEAN, CHANGE THE ENGINE OIL OFTEN.
I'm sure I am forgetting a few things, but this may help you some. We put a MINIMUM of 500 hrs on each machine annually--some machines a LOT more--maybe with less hours you wouldn't need to do some of this annually like we do.
Tracked machines: change the drive motor oil on each side. If you have the idlers and rollers that have an allen plug in them, remove the rollers/idlers and drain and refill them. Adjust the track tension often. I am a firm believer of taking machines in for an annual inspection each winter. It is quite cheap if you don't let the dealership fix what they find, and bring the machine back home and fix what they found yourself. This pays GREAT dividends to us.
If a controller machine, the dealer will update the software and get a list of all codes the machine has thrown, which is valuable, and you can't do it yourself. We usually allow the dealership to do a few minor adjustments and fix something we don't want to tackle, and it runs about $200-$400 per machine on average--money well spent.
We also touch up all scratches in the paint, sometimes repaint the tailgate if faded/scratched up, replace our business name/logo decals if needed, and make the machines look SHARP for another season. Other than filters, we don't carry many spare parts. We used to keep drive belts on hand, but now we just replace them when they show excessive cracking/wear, and they never break.
Hard to grease a machine TOO much, especially the pins at the bobtach.
2) Drain the chaincase annually. I drill and tap a hole in the front bottom of all my machines so that all one has to do is "pull the plug".
3)Change the hyd filter annually, and change the hyd oil frequently--we change it annually also, but I know many people don't (we have never had a hyd/hydro failure, so I think an annual change certainly has paid dividends for us)
4) We change the coolant every other year--again, many people don't.
5) If turbo'ed, check the turbo and exhaust manifold bolts. We have had them work loose.
6) "Open 'em up and clean 'em out"--tip the cab/rollcage back and clean out the dried mud, sand, sticks, etc that will accumulate way down under everything. We blow out and then CAREFULLY wash it out. I have found that spraying with "gunk" or something similar allows you to clean everything up with a lot less water pressure. Remove the side panels that allow access to the hydros for better access if needed.
7) Check the fan gearbox lube level. We have had to "speedy sleeve" a couple of our machines where the shaft comes out of the gearbox.
8) Check the hoses for rubbing/wear. Power bobtach hoses especially.
9) Check the main drive belt and idler--we have had idlers fail in as little as 500 hrs.
10) Blow out the alternator occasionally--I've seen them jammed full of dust and debris.
11) KEEP THE ENGINE AIR FILTER CLEAN, CHANGE THE ENGINE OIL OFTEN.
I'm sure I am forgetting a few things, but this may help you some. We put a MINIMUM of 500 hrs on each machine annually--some machines a LOT more--maybe with less hours you wouldn't need to do some of this annually like we do.
Tracked machines: change the drive motor oil on each side. If you have the idlers and rollers that have an allen plug in them, remove the rollers/idlers and drain and refill them. Adjust the track tension often. I am a firm believer of taking machines in for an annual inspection each winter. It is quite cheap if you don't let the dealership fix what they find, and bring the machine back home and fix what they found yourself. This pays GREAT dividends to us.
If a controller machine, the dealer will update the software and get a list of all codes the machine has thrown, which is valuable, and you can't do it yourself. We usually allow the dealership to do a few minor adjustments and fix something we don't want to tackle, and it runs about $200-$400 per machine on average--money well spent.
We also touch up all scratches in the paint, sometimes repaint the tailgate if faded/scratched up, replace our business name/logo decals if needed, and make the machines look SHARP for another season. Other than filters, we don't carry many spare parts. We used to keep drive belts on hand, but now we just replace them when they show excessive cracking/wear, and they never break.
Hard to grease a machine TOO much, especially the pins at the bobtach.
skidsteer.ca
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We grease every 8 to 10 hours or everytime the loader comes back from rent. Often only 2 to 4 hours. Sometimes the machines look a bit messy for it, but I'd rather clean it from time to time then ever hear a squeak. If I do I stop and grease right there.
Oil changes are done one 200 hour intervals. (some of the early Kubotas engines were only 100 hours)
I believe in changing hyd oil and filters but tend to follow the mfgs recommended 1000 hour interval unless there is some reason to change it early.
Watch for water contamination in your hyd and chain case oil,, if it gets milky looking get it out of there and find out how it got that way in the first place.
Blow out your oil cooler and rad periodically, epecially the old machines with the engine is normal, (not sideways) the air comes up from the bottom side and the rad looks clean on top, but the oil cooler underneath is all plugged up.
I've had the belts come loose for the pumps and 1 tension idler fail, so I tend to check those when I change oil. Also the tension for the fan stick and the belt slip from being loose.
Ken
Since chain case oil is 10-30 or 40, and it's not under extreme pressure or heat, reusing might be an option if it's strained well?.
skidsteer.ca
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- Messages
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If my hydraulic oil is clean I dump it into the chain case, Both drain on the same interval
Ken
Ken's idea is great idea. Mine either into my dump lift,bar oil for the chain saw. Most goes to a neighbor to burn in his shop burner. Scott
