T200 cab rattles and shakes

[siduramaxde]

Ok guys, I am bound and determined to make the cab on my T200 more comfortable. My biggest gripe is that whenever I pick up something heavy and move the loader over a hard surface (concrete) the cab rattles and shakes violently. I know this is from all the weight being transfered to the front idler and every cog on the track is felt. What can be done to settle things down? I have seen on the newer track loaders that bobcat has installed window frame stiffners on the outside of the cab. I made my own stiffners out of 1/2”x1” and bolted them to the cab frame in the same place that bobcat places them and I still have window rattle and the cab still shakes. Any ideas?

 

[bobcat_ron]

Buy a CAT MTL?

 

[Tazza]

Buy a CAT MTL?

I always figured you just had to live with vibration on track machines. There really is nothing to absorb the impact. Every time the bumps on the track or drive sprocket touch a hard surface it will be transfered to the frame of the machine. At least wheel machines have the tyres to take most of the bumps out of rough surfaces.

 

[frank123]

I always figured you just had to live with vibration on track machines. There really is nothing to absorb the impact. Every time the bumps on the track or drive sprocket touch a hard surface it will be transfered to the frame of the machine. At least wheel machines have the tyres to take most of the bumps out of rough surfaces.

The problem isn't the windows, it's the undercarriage. Go try a CT322 Deere. More power, better balance plus a smooth ride without the cat maintenance cost.

 

[bobcat_ron]

The problem isn't the windows, it's the undercarriage. Go try a CT322 Deere. More power, better balance plus a smooth ride without the cat maintenance cost.

What those Deere people don't know is tha afeter 700 rs the tracks start to rot right where the dlers and rollers run on and that will give you the harshest ride ever. My T190 tracks are really rotted there and it's the worst.

 

[TriHonu]

What those Deere people don't know is tha afeter 700 rs the tracks start to rot right where the dlers and rollers run on and that will give you the harshest ride ever. My T190 tracks are really rotted there and it's the worst.

siduramaxde, what style of tracks do you have? Does the lug pattern of the tracks run straight across the track, or are the lugs on the left side offset from the lugs on the right?
The pattern of the track lugs not only determines the amount of traction that can be generated on a given surface, but it also contributes to the pounding as the lugs rotate around the front idler. Of course running on a compact surface just amplifies the fact that there is very little give in the track suspension.
I would like to hear from others what brand tracks and lug style of they run and how they rate the ride and traction on different surfaces.

 

[siduramaxde]

siduramaxde, what style of tracks do you have? Does the lug pattern of the tracks run straight across the track, or are the lugs on the left side offset from the lugs on the right?
The pattern of the track lugs not only determines the amount of traction that can be generated on a given surface, but it also contributes to the pounding as the lugs rotate around the front idler. Of course running on a compact surface just amplifies the fact that there is very little give in the track suspension.
I would like to hear from others what brand tracks and lug style of they run and how they rate the ride and traction on different surfaces.

When I bought the loader it had the original “straight bar” bridgestone tracks but they were in pretty rough shape. I have since replaced them with the offset “c” lug bridgestone tracks. The ride on pavement is slightly better but it is still pretty rough riding when carrying a load.
I plow snow with the machine and I use a 10' Daniels snow pusher. The pusher weighs quite a bit and when I am have the pusher off the ground the ride is bad. You can feel every cog on the track. But, when I put the pusher on the ground to push snow the ride is much better.
I have used a JD CTL and I have never seen tracks come off a machine so much (and for no reason). The ride is better than my T200 but I'm not spending that much money on a machine I only use 150+/- hours a year. I also do not want to deal with retracking the JD when it's snowing and cold/windy.
FYI: My machine also had all new rollers and idlers put on about 500 hours ago and their function seems to be fine.

 

[bobcat_ron]

When I bought the loader it had the original “straight bar” bridgestone tracks but they were in pretty rough shape. I have since replaced them with the offset “c” lug bridgestone tracks. The ride on pavement is slightly better but it is still pretty rough riding when carrying a load.
I plow snow with the machine and I use a 10' Daniels snow pusher. The pusher weighs quite a bit and when I am have the pusher off the ground the ride is bad. You can feel every cog on the track. But, when I put the pusher on the ground to push snow the ride is much better.
I have used a JD CTL and I have never seen tracks come off a machine so much (and for no reason). The ride is better than my T200 but I'm not spending that much money on a machine I only use 150+/- hours a year. I also do not want to deal with retracking the JD when it's snowing and cold/windy.
FYI: My machine also had all new rollers and idlers put on about 500 hours ago and their function seems to be fine.

How did you manage to de-track the Deere's tracks?

 

[siduramaxde]

How did you manage to de-track the Deere's tracks?

It seems like whenever you got the deere on a side slope and try turning you are at risk of detracking. This didn't happen everytime in this situation but it did seem to be a problem. I have never detracked my bobcat. I'm not sure why the deere would do this but I think it might have something to do with the front roller where bobcat uses an idler. Track tension was NOT the issue. The positive things about the deere are the hydraulics are very strong (more than my T200) and the ride was smother on a hard surface.
Now back to the original topic. I have finnally solved the window rattle by installing some new (thicker) weather strip between the 2 panes of glass. I actually used weather strip designed for residential, exterior, steel doors. The stuff is cheap and works great. I used some 3m double sided tape to adhere it to the window.
Now I need some new shock absorbers for the yank em' sticks because mine have been leaking and allow the machine to get pretty jumpy. These shock absorbers are the ones located under the seat. I have heard the bobcat now offers a dual shock absorber kit that is supposed to really smooth things out. Does anyone know of a place where I can get these shock absorbers at a discount price?

 

[skidsteer.ca]

It seems like whenever you got the deere on a side slope and try turning you are at risk of detracking. This didn't happen everytime in this situation but it did seem to be a problem. I have never detracked my bobcat. I'm not sure why the deere would do this but I think it might have something to do with the front roller where bobcat uses an idler. Track tension was NOT the issue. The positive things about the deere are the hydraulics are very strong (more than my T200) and the ride was smother on a hard surface.
Now back to the original topic. I have finnally solved the window rattle by installing some new (thicker) weather strip between the 2 panes of glass. I actually used weather strip designed for residential, exterior, steel doors. The stuff is cheap and works great. I used some 3m double sided tape to adhere it to the window.
Now I need some new shock absorbers for the yank em' sticks because mine have been leaking and allow the machine to get pretty jumpy. These shock absorbers are the ones located under the seat. I have heard the bobcat now offers a dual shock absorber kit that is supposed to really smooth things out. Does anyone know of a place where I can get these shock absorbers at a discount price?

Not at a discount, seems to me the 853 ones were $38, each, not counting rod ends.
Mine were rusty and leaking.
They do make the loader more manageable
Ken

 

[siduramaxde]

Not at a discount, seems to me the 853 ones were $38, each, not counting rod ends.
Mine were rusty and leaking.
They do make the loader more manageable
Ken

I'm going to take one of the shocks up to my local NAPA and see what they can do for me.