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Fishfiles

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Feb 8, 2007
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I press the operate button and all but the brake light lites up , no flashes of the light , checked fuse and relay and power to the relay ok , checked for power at brake coil and find none and no power to the trigger wire of the relay , jump the hot side of the brake coil with 12 v and the brake releases , I know t-series machines have to have a signal from rpm sensor saying motor is running or you will have no power to the brake when button is depressed , so I change the rpm sensor still no light , trace the wiring and find no breaks or rubs , pretty sure the $470 panel which houses the traction lights is bad , temporary hooked up a toggle to release the brake so they can run till I figure it out for sure what the problem is , any one been here before
 

skidsteer.ca

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Jan 20, 2006
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Oh the joys of computer over electric controls. A trip to the dealer and a connection to his laptop should confirm where the problem is. You may want to continue what your doing
Ken
 

Fishfiles

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Joined
Feb 8, 2007
Messages
1,698
Oh the joys of computer over electric controls. A trip to the dealer and a connection to his laptop should confirm where the problem is. You may want to continue what your doing
Ken
Oh , yes the joy , hook a trailer and load up machine (1/2 hr) , lucky it's rigged up to operate and can be driven as no Bobcat dealer service calls on the road at this time , their must be 25 or 30 mechanics working shop jobs , so a roll off would be even more if you didn't roll , 1 1/2 hr pull to dealer , 1 1/2 hr drive back to site , 2-3 week waiting list to be looked at for service , we have hurricane clean up still booming , rebuilding and new construction going on so the dealers are busy to say the least , if you want to see alot of heavy metal come to New Orleans and the surrounding areas right now , a dime a dozen , just a scoping might take a few days , reverse the precedure for pick up , total 7 hours of other work lost and a load of fuel , out of machines use for a while , priceless , it would be cheaper to experiment ,----------- I have the old style first generation scanner and printer , but it has become useless even on the older machines , had thought about buying the new machines program software as I have an extra lap top but was told they don't sell it , and I feel if they did I would not want to pay what they wanted for it anyway , I fear it's coming that you will have to bring the machine in for any electrical work ,------ the machine is working with some rigging and I am getting more confident it's the panel and not the wiring , I could just swop the panel with another machine but he timing to shut that machine down and drive and reswop would make it not fiesable , I can't see why they have to incorporate the brake and controll release into the same unit as the fuel gauge , hour meter and all the other things on that same panel and run the price up to $470 for something that only 1/10 of it is bad , -------on another note the big cat dealer right now is charging for road service $100 pr hour between 7 and 5 , time and a half before and after , travel time to and from the site , $2.00 per mile to and from site , and all kinds of fees and surcharges , it's $600 before they touch a wrench ---- a saying floating around is "if you can't run with the big dogs , stay on the pourch and quit barking "
 

skidsteer.ca

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
3,853
Oh , yes the joy , hook a trailer and load up machine (1/2 hr) , lucky it's rigged up to operate and can be driven as no Bobcat dealer service calls on the road at this time , their must be 25 or 30 mechanics working shop jobs , so a roll off would be even more if you didn't roll , 1 1/2 hr pull to dealer , 1 1/2 hr drive back to site , 2-3 week waiting list to be looked at for service , we have hurricane clean up still booming , rebuilding and new construction going on so the dealers are busy to say the least , if you want to see alot of heavy metal come to New Orleans and the surrounding areas right now , a dime a dozen , just a scoping might take a few days , reverse the precedure for pick up , total 7 hours of other work lost and a load of fuel , out of machines use for a while , priceless , it would be cheaper to experiment ,----------- I have the old style first generation scanner and printer , but it has become useless even on the older machines , had thought about buying the new machines program software as I have an extra lap top but was told they don't sell it , and I feel if they did I would not want to pay what they wanted for it anyway , I fear it's coming that you will have to bring the machine in for any electrical work ,------ the machine is working with some rigging and I am getting more confident it's the panel and not the wiring , I could just swop the panel with another machine but he timing to shut that machine down and drive and reswop would make it not fiesable , I can't see why they have to incorporate the brake and controll release into the same unit as the fuel gauge , hour meter and all the other things on that same panel and run the price up to $470 for something that only 1/10 of it is bad , -------on another note the big cat dealer right now is charging for road service $100 pr hour between 7 and 5 , time and a half before and after , travel time to and from the site , $2.00 per mile to and from site , and all kinds of fees and surcharges , it's $600 before they touch a wrench ---- a saying floating around is "if you can't run with the big dogs , stay on the pourch and quit barking "
The first lesson to be learned on these machines is how to bypass the park brake and the lift and tilt lock, and if necessary the fuel shutoff, so non critical breakdowns don't stop progress.
No matter how often the MFGs claim they will be right there to help you fix the problem the truth of the matter is the the 1st one to help you fix the problem is yourself, nd every step they take to force you back to the dealer is one in the wrong direction.
I have bypassed the park brake by removing the 2 bolts that hold the brake coil on and remove the coil and the spring, then pull the rod up a couple inches to hold the park brake off and put a hose clamp around it to hold it up and the brake off.
Ken
 

Fishfiles

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2007
Messages
1,698
The first lesson to be learned on these machines is how to bypass the park brake and the lift and tilt lock, and if necessary the fuel shutoff, so non critical breakdowns don't stop progress.
No matter how often the MFGs claim they will be right there to help you fix the problem the truth of the matter is the the 1st one to help you fix the problem is yourself, nd every step they take to force you back to the dealer is one in the wrong direction.
I have bypassed the park brake by removing the 2 bolts that hold the brake coil on and remove the coil and the spring, then pull the rod up a couple inches to hold the park brake off and put a hose clamp around it to hold it up and the brake off.
Ken
The way I have by passed the brake on a wheeled loader is to remove the soliniod and then remove the base plate that the soliniod bolts to , the wedge assembly can be pulled out ,then the base plate and solinoid reinstalled it takes a little extra time , about 10 minutes but no dirt / water can get into the chain case this way , on the tracked models the brake is a stem and coil , if the stem and coil is good and the problem is wiring or control panel, you can run a wire from the red wire of the coil to the parking brake switch and unlock the brake by pressing the parking brake rocker switch , this allows you to use the brake if needed ---the newer machines that have a spool lock solinoid on the lift and tilt curcuits can be made to run by removing the lock solinoid from the spool , if you know the solinoid is bad you can grind off the plunger and reinstall it as a plug , or get a hydraulic plug and close up the hole to keep the dirt out --too much electrical junk on the machines now days fishfiles
 

marvin

New member
Joined
Mar 23, 2007
Messages
1
The way I have by passed the brake on a wheeled loader is to remove the soliniod and then remove the base plate that the soliniod bolts to , the wedge assembly can be pulled out ,then the base plate and solinoid reinstalled it takes a little extra time , about 10 minutes but no dirt / water can get into the chain case this way , on the tracked models the brake is a stem and coil , if the stem and coil is good and the problem is wiring or control panel, you can run a wire from the red wire of the coil to the parking brake switch and unlock the brake by pressing the parking brake rocker switch , this allows you to use the brake if needed ---the newer machines that have a spool lock solinoid on the lift and tilt curcuits can be made to run by removing the lock solinoid from the spool , if you know the solinoid is bad you can grind off the plunger and reinstall it as a plug , or get a hydraulic plug and close up the hole to keep the dirt out --too much electrical junk on the machines now days fishfiles
I don't think it is the panel, I think there is something wrong with the RPM signal. You will need to take it in and have a tech look at it. It could have a pushed back pin or a break in the wiring for the RPM sensor, or sensor itself. Are there any error codes?
 

Fishfiles

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Joined
Feb 8, 2007
Messages
1,698
I don't think it is the panel, I think there is something wrong with the RPM signal. You will need to take it in and have a tech look at it. It could have a pushed back pin or a break in the wiring for the RPM sensor, or sensor itself. Are there any error codes?
No codes are coming up and the rpm sensor was one of the first things I replaced as I know that the T-series needs to know that the engine is running to be able to send power to the coil and stem of the brake release and the wheeled loaders do not need to be running to release the brake , could be in the wiring , visaully checked the wiring for rubs but didn't open up any of the protective coverings , I am still thinking it's the panel as the only other thing I can think it would be would be wiring
 
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