Still can't get the steering adjusted correctly on my S185

Help Support SkidSteer Forum:

Kermode

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 15, 2009
Messages
134
I've been fiddling with the steering adjustment on my 2003 S185 on and off for two months now and I still can't get it to centre exactly. I've followed the directions in the service manual exactly and I just can't seem to get it exactly right. All the bushings in the linkages seem in good shape and there is no appreciable play in the linkage. How big a role do the shock absorbers on the steering linkages play in centering the steering? Could there be an issue with the swash plate in the pump? What am I missing? Or do I just keep trying?
 

skidsteer.ca

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
3,853
Have you checked the aluminum pintle arms where ther fasten to the square shaft on the hydro pumps? They are known to come loose there, making adjustment impossible.
The shock are more to slow the movement of the steering sticks so the operator is less likely to make unwanted movements.
If the adjustment blocks and the round parts on the pintle arms become warn, this can prevent proper adjustment too, but generally they last 3000 hours or so.
Ken
 
OP
OP
K

Kermode

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 15, 2009
Messages
134
Have you checked the aluminum pintle arms where ther fasten to the square shaft on the hydro pumps? They are known to come loose there, making adjustment impossible.
The shock are more to slow the movement of the steering sticks so the operator is less likely to make unwanted movements.
If the adjustment blocks and the round parts on the pintle arms become warn, this can prevent proper adjustment too, but generally they last 3000 hours or so.
Ken
Oddly enough it just rolled over 3000 hrs. I'll have to check the pintle arms for wear. I know they're tight. I flipped the adjustment blocks over as they were badly worn. I guess I'll just keep trying.
 

skidsteer.ca

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 20, 2006
Messages
3,853
Oddly enough it just rolled over 3000 hrs. I'll have to check the pintle arms for wear. I know they're tight. I flipped the adjustment blocks over as they were badly worn. I guess I'll just keep trying.
Where the pieces that rub on the blocks worn looking?
At 3000 hrs it is often time for a few parts.
You are running it with the wheels blocked up off the ground to get the best feel for true neutral?
Ken
 
OP
OP
K

Kermode

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 15, 2009
Messages
134
Where the pieces that rub on the blocks worn looking?
At 3000 hrs it is often time for a few parts.
You are running it with the wheels blocked up off the ground to get the best feel for true neutral?
Ken
I finally got it adjusted to suit me. At least, it will sit at idle with the seat bar up and not creep up against the brake and stall. Patience and perseverance I guess. I think the next time I go in there I will replace everything that looks worn before I do anything.
 

Fishfiles

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2007
Messages
1,698
I finally got it adjusted to suit me. At least, it will sit at idle with the seat bar up and not creep up against the brake and stall. Patience and perseverance I guess. I think the next time I go in there I will replace everything that looks worn before I do anything.
Yes it can be a frastrating job sometimes setting neutral , there were two styles of pintle arms and the adjustment techniques vary from one to the other , I am just going to state the way I do the older style which came back around after a layoff and is the current syle now , first thing is check for looseness in the pintle arm to shaft connections , if neutral is really off I start by loosening the two 9/16 hex headed bolts on top the pintle plate on the right looking in the machine from the front , this side needs to be set first or it wil be harder , by loosing both you let the pintle slide over and equall out , I "ll guess at center and tighten up , I 'll start the machine and see which side pulls what way , then loosen the bolt on top the pintle enough to use a hammer to tap on the head of the bolt the way I need to go to compensate for the pull , note that every action has an opposite reaction and the other side usually needs to be adjusted after moving the opposite side , if it is jacked off the ground it is easier , I can usually get it right in three tries ----------I have had a couple of beers after cutting grass all morning in 90+ F temps so my explaination maybe a little dizzy
 
OP
OP
K

Kermode

Well-known member
Joined
Dec 15, 2009
Messages
134
Yes it can be a frastrating job sometimes setting neutral , there were two styles of pintle arms and the adjustment techniques vary from one to the other , I am just going to state the way I do the older style which came back around after a layoff and is the current syle now , first thing is check for looseness in the pintle arm to shaft connections , if neutral is really off I start by loosening the two 9/16 hex headed bolts on top the pintle plate on the right looking in the machine from the front , this side needs to be set first or it wil be harder , by loosing both you let the pintle slide over and equall out , I "ll guess at center and tighten up , I 'll start the machine and see which side pulls what way , then loosen the bolt on top the pintle enough to use a hammer to tap on the head of the bolt the way I need to go to compensate for the pull , note that every action has an opposite reaction and the other side usually needs to be adjusted after moving the opposite side , if it is jacked off the ground it is easier , I can usually get it right in three tries ----------I have had a couple of beers after cutting grass all morning in 90+ F temps so my explaination maybe a little dizzy
That's exactly the way I ended up doing it. Loosening the bolts just enough and then tapping them back and forth until it centered up. What a PITA.
 
Top